case lube revisited again

[quickshot]

Hey all! well it is time to size a whole crapload of .223 and .308 brass again. I was using imperial wax. good stuff but damn is it slow. I need a faster way to size 1000+ pieces of brass. So here is my question: I have run a test lot of 20 cases through the die with crisco and 20 with pam. No stuck cases yet!!!! Will crisco or pam contaminate powder or primers? I didn't know if all the natural oils would ruin everything. Wadda think? Good idea or not? (I used pam because I had it laying around and I couldn't find my imperial)


Quickshot

[Texas_XD]

I dunno, have read where others use it, Pam, pretty regularly. I personally just use Hornady One Shot, throw my cases in a gallon ziplock, spray the lube in, zip shut and shake. Then I just open it to let them air dry for a few minutes. Resized 100 7mm-08 other day that way with no problems.

[rem33]

Yup, I do em just like Texas-xd. Continue to use the same bag as the new spray will melt the old stuff in the bag and just make things better as you go along. I just ran a 100 or so 270 then a large coffee can of 30-06, and a half coffee can of 308, and another of 223, another half of 41 mag, with One shot from a Zip-Loc that way and it works great.

Clean your dies of the old lube, I use carb cleaner and Q-tips, and spray a bit in em before you start with the One Shot and it will do much better.

I haven't used a roll pad for over 10 years now and once I discovered the spray in a bag nothing has came close to getting stuck.

[rickh]

I thinking the crisco or pam or any vege oil s going to contaminate the powder.
Might want to dip them test shells in some laqure thinner once real quick to get rid of it before reloading them.
I still use a pad, lay out 16 shells on each side a roll back and forth and it goes pretty quick. So I am lubing 32 at a time. I use the long RCBS pad and the normal lube. I have the one shot just have not tried it yet. Guess I should.
Seems like once you run 100 throug the die you can use less and less lube.
I prep'd did 200 .223 last night in about 45 min. That includes lubing, sizing de capping length check, trim about 40%, primer pocket cleaning/trueing, chafering and deburing.
I did have the 8 year old helping with the length checking and sorting...
Cost me 2 bucks but the help was appreciated!
Rick H...

[Edward429451]

Once you stick a case in a die, you'll be happy to return to Imperial.

[ConRich]

+1, Imperial Sizing Wax. I've been reloading for 35 + years and have tried them all. Last year a freind turned me onto Imperial Sizing Wax and IMO it is the best thing on the planet. HTH

Rich

[Kato_Guy]

when you guys are neck sizing a 223 do you still put a little bit of graphite or something on there just to make it a little smoother??

[cheygriz]

Stuck a couple of cases with Hornady. Switched to Dillon spray lube, and haven't had a problem since.

RCBS case lube on one of their foam pads works very well also, but it's much slower. However, I do use the RCBS and the foam pad when resizing .300 Mag, .338 and .375 mag.

I use Imperial sizing wax when case forming. You really learn to apprciate Imperial when forming a couple of hundred 7.65 Belgian Mauser cases from military .30-06.

[Shoney]

I do not trust the silicone sprays, as you hear of stuck cases with these at regular intervals (you cannot see for certain if the whole case has been treated). Using oil based (petroleum or vegitable) lubes, you must clean that off the cases. More time involved.

Since the Imperial Sizing Die Wax is a wax and does not effect the powder or primer, no additonal cleaning is required.

So, in the long run, the minimally longer process to apply ISDW will be the shortest in the long run.

[240wby]

I posed this question to a local commercial loader. He loads 100,000's. He uses PAM.

Good Shooting.

240 wby

[rwilson452]

So what does he use to get the pam off??

[240wby]

Good question wilson, he tumbles (in a small cement mixer)with newsprint confetti and acetone. I lay the brass out on a old hand towel and spray with brake cleaner, then bunch up towel with brass inside and rub and shake.

[cheygriz]

Shoney,

I've had trouble with Hornady spray sticking cases, but NEVER with Dillon.

As far as removing the lube, you MUST remove ALL lube from the cases. It's not so much a matter of contamination as it is a matter of the ability of the case to "grip" the chamber during peak pressure. A lubed round can cause a "rocket like" thrust against the bolt face, and after a few thousand rounds can create excessive headspace.

And Hornady spray lube should be removed. I don't care what Hornady says.

[Texas_XD]

And Hornady spray lube should be removed. I don't care what Hornady says.

And I do remove it.. I re-tumble it before priming/loading for 15 minutes. Unless it's supper time then it stays in till I'm well fed

But have to say, haven't had an issue one yet using the above mentioned method.

[Ben Shepherd]

When I load, I do it in 1000 round batches. Here's what works for me:

1. With straightwall calibers, I use carbide dies and hornady one-shot.
2. With bottleneck calibers, I use the dillon lube.
3. On the rare times I do a caseforming operation, I use the old lube pad and rcbs lube.

Haven't stuck a single case since I went to this method years back.

The ONLY dud I've ever had with a handloaded round was a 44 mag.

The cause? Federal missed a primer somehow. I had a cup and an anvil, but no priming compound whatsoever.