|
Forum Rules | Firearms Safety | Firearms Photos | Links | Library | Lost Password | Email Changes |
Register | FAQ | Calendar | Today's Posts | Search |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
December 19, 2014, 03:54 PM | #26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: January 24, 2011
Posts: 386
|
Ocelot - the revolver I used for the test is an H&R 929 "Sidekick." The firing pin as a flat face and is over 1mm thick at the front, in fact according to my calipers, it is .05" wide.
|
December 19, 2014, 11:31 PM | #27 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 1, 2008
Posts: 231
|
Quote:
|
|
December 19, 2014, 11:37 PM | #28 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 20, 2008
Posts: 229
|
The problem I've had in the past using 22lr brass as snap caps, not in a revolver, is that they deform even after a single strike and get stuck in the chamber. I've sometimes had to use dowels or cleaning rods to remove them. Hence I stopped using them.
|
December 19, 2014, 11:56 PM | #29 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 20, 2008
Posts: 229
|
I just did the same experiment with my H&R Sportsman 999. I took a small piece of paper, punched the correct size hole with a little overlap, put a yellow wall anchor through it, put it in the revolver and marked the firing pin with a sharpie.
I got very faint marks at first. But it turned out that the paper wasn't flat against the back of the cylinder. Further dry fires showed an even fainter mark. I then was very careful to force the paper all the way against the cylinder after closing via the gap, and then I fired with the revolver pointed down in order to keep the paper in place. No marks after 3 tries. So as far as I'm concerned, they seem to protect enough in that particular gun. I might try the same experiment with some semi-autos. Could be interesting. |
December 20, 2014, 02:31 AM | #30 |
Senior Member
Join Date: August 14, 2001
Posts: 1,260
|
Energy absorption and efficiency on impact largely depend on density, the plastic wall anchors have a significantly lower specific weight and density than the firing pin and through the deformation will catch the impact. The softeners used will help avoid cracking and giving the rim some resilience. It is much the same with modern car bumpers, plastic and polyurethane have better absorption than steel.
When looking at the rims on the wall anchors, it is plain to see that they are thicker than .22 l.r. rims, which are actually a fold of the case with the primer inside and get permanently indented when hit by the firing pin. They are not pierced from a single hit, nor from being hit twice but turning the rim is always a good idea - on spent brass as well as on wall anchors. I have used spent brass, even with colored wood dowels to allow feeding in my Hämmerli 208, and wall anchors alike and both do their job of cushioning the firing pins on some of my pricier rimfire revolvers. I would not want to get a replacement firing pin for any of my Korths. |
December 20, 2014, 10:41 PM | #31 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 20, 2008
Posts: 229
|
Oh man, I would love a Korth... Those are some good-looking guns!
|
December 21, 2014, 12:46 AM | #32 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: August 14, 2001
Posts: 1,260
|
Quote:
For me the Korths are not about looks but the quality and care that went into the production of these fine revolvers. For instance, the cylinder chambers are not only reamed and polished but have a ball bearing pressed through it, smoothing the surface and giving it extra density. I have a 1952 vintage S&W K-22 that I love and cherish but it is plagued with the typical extraction problems of the earlier K-22s. The Korths do not have this problem and it is making cleaning very easy to be able to remove the cylinder with a push of the button. The early Korths (21 to 23 serials) are as ugly but as accurate as the Colt OMMs. The Korth still has some grips on it that I made myself but have replaced with originals since the photo. The newer Korths are as beautiful as the Pythons. Since I have several vintage rimfire revolvers, protecting them from damage during dryfiring is an old concern for me - and something I take serious. |
|
December 21, 2014, 07:16 AM | #33 |
Senior Member
Join Date: September 23, 2013
Location: Alabama
Posts: 2,968
|
first, some rimfire guns are safe to dry fire, check the owner's manual for this statement.
next, use the right tool for the right job. if dry wall anchors were the fix-all, the snap caps wouldn't have been able to stay on the market. |
December 22, 2014, 12:24 AM | #34 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: August 14, 2001
Posts: 1,260
|
Quote:
As long as people blindly trust to get what they pay for, companies like Pachmayr and Tipton will make good profit margins. |
|
December 22, 2014, 12:43 AM | #35 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 7, 2006
Posts: 10,985
|
Empty cases are cheaper, better, and safer for your gun than ANY rimfire snap caps.
|
December 22, 2014, 03:46 AM | #36 |
Junior member
Join Date: April 22, 2014
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,549
|
I have one thing to say to those of you using plastic crap wall anchors instead of spent .22 rounds or snap caps.......Numrich because you will be ordering from them some time.
|
December 22, 2014, 10:42 AM | #37 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: August 14, 2001
Posts: 1,260
|
Quote:
I knew that we would eventually agree on something! Snap caps are a waste of money and as the red hard plastic ones crack so easily, the damage resulting from undetected failure is nothing I want on of my guns. hartcreek, I have no money to waste. I collect Korth revolvers and have to bring a kid through medical school. |
|
December 24, 2014, 05:48 AM | #38 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 25, 1999
Location: Too close to Houston
Posts: 4,196
|
Quote:
The martial arts guys are smart enough to use cinder blocks.
__________________
Proud member of the NRA and Texas State Rifle Association. Registered and active voter. |
|
December 25, 2014, 05:21 PM | #39 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 23, 2008
Location: Jefferson State
Posts: 1,197
|
After reading this entire thread, I just had to go to the cabinet and drag out my old Ruger Single Six. It was used when I got it in the early 1970's, and a more used (and abused) pistol you will not likely encounter. I myself have dry-fired it with no protection a gazillian and three times, and I'm thinkin, My God!! It must be ruint by now.
Well I pulled out the cylinder, and shined a light expecting to see gnarly peen marks in the rim recess, and -- nuthin. Not a sign that there has ever been any steel to steel contact. Looked at the end of the firing pin and -- smooth, rounded, unblemished. Checked the frame face thinking it must be at least dimpled out from the beating it's taken, and nope. Now I can't say that any other 22 hand guns would fare the same as mine, but I did check my old Colt Woodsman, and it is also undamaged, and I would suspect that there are many other brands and types where dry fire simply isn't a problem. I do see a value in dry-fire as an aid to marksmanship, and believe that some fundamentals can be better learned with no live ammo than with. I'll probably go on dry-firing most of my firearms at least to some degree, and if I ever have a problem, I'll consider it the cost of doing business. jd
__________________
"We're all dummies, just in different ways." Old Okie Philosopher |
December 25, 2014, 06:03 PM | #40 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 7, 2006
Posts: 10,985
|
The greatest danger of dry-firing is a broken firing pin.
Your Woodsman should not be dry-fired. |
|
|