Advise for first time 1911 'smithing

[Malpaso]

All discalimers apply <g>!

I am ready to start on my first 1911. It is an Essex bottom with an Ithaca top. I already tore it down to the bare frame and cleaned every part. Now I'm ready to move on.

I am going to use the gun for recreation only. I'll shoot some pins/plates, some combat and some bullseye, all for fun. I want the gun to function, period. I also want to do as much as I can myself, for educational reasons, not monetary, but I don't want to spend a ton. I want to gunsmith, not replace large ticket items.

My main concern is a crisp trigger and good sights. So here are my questions/comments.

1. Can you replace sights easily, or is this a machine shop job?

2. I've heard the sear spring is key to a good trigger job, not the mainspring. Yes/no?

3. I will spring (no pun) for a Wilson drop in barrel/bushing eventually. I want to see how good I can get it first.

4. I've already ordered the Kuhnhausen book.

5. The gun shoots a ragged hole offhand at 25' and a 3-4" group bullseye style at 50'.

6. I'm considering the Wilson Shok-Buff recoil system with full length rod guide.

7. I don't need a commander style hammer or beavertail safety, my hands are small.

8. I've considered the Wilson E-Z Loader mag well.

What have I missed? Anything I've mentioned I don't really need? Any comments, suggestions and ideas are most welcome. Thanks in advance.

[James K]

Hi, Malpaso,

That gun shoots pretty well as is. I think you should read Kuhnhausen before you do anything. The secret to a good trigger pull is a good sear-hammer engagement, not spring weight. But if you do this yourself, be prepared to buy some extra sears and/or hammers as you can easily ruin parts in your initial experiments (try gun shows for "GI" (actually probably repro) parts). Plus Kuhnhausen uses a lot of fancy and expensive tools that you don't really need (though they help). Always be careful with files and stones - it is a lot easier to take metal off than it is to put it back. And work on the cheaper part first.

Replacing the rear sight can be easy or complex depending on your choice of sight. Replacing the front sight should involve use of a staking tool or the sight may go missing suddenly.

When you have a gunsmith do the work, you are paying for experieince and knowledge and also for those tools that enable a more precise and better job.

Good luck.

Jim

[George Stringer]

Malpaso, to answer your questions:

1: It depends on the sight you wish to use. The front is easily staked on and if you get one made for the rear dovetail most work with minor fitting. Machinist work is only required when you want to mount a Novak or Bo-mar, etc and a dovetail front.

2: Both play a part in the trigger weight but not the quality of the pull. As Jim mentioned that is a direct result of how well the sear and hammer engagement surfaces are polished as well as a few other areas.

For the most in accuracy from your stock barrel I'd recommend a tight fitting match grade bushing and Wilson's full length guide rod with group gripper.

In addition to Kuhnhausen's fine book I also recommend Hallocks .45 Auto Handbook. He shows you ways to do things without all the special tools.

George

[Mr.X]

Malpaso...don't be too quick to dismiss a beavertail,or a skeletonized hammer. I have small hands, and would occasionaly get "bit" by the stock hammer. I love the beavertail...the pistol seems more controlable in my hand, and the McCormick hammer feels lighter when I pull the trigger. I also like the flat mainspring housing.
Good luck!

[Art Eatman]

1. Concur with the above.

2. One reason I'm partial to Halleck's book--and I've not seen Kuhnhausen's--is that it seems aimed at the relative novice. He offers good drawings and clear text.

Hallecks's warnings and illustrations about hammer/sear engagement were of great help to me when I first started fiddling around with the internals of the 1911.

My preference is for very fine, very hard stones. I have flat, triangular, and round stones, and like the man said, it's easier to take metal off than to add it. Fine stones are slower...

It sounds like your gun is pretty good, already. I'd think that cleaning up your trigger would help, and polishing the feed ramp would enhance reliability.

George: Have you tried McCormick's new trigger, which I think I read is somehow adjustable to take up the "foreplay" slop? All I know to do is to braze some material onto the back of the crossbar of the trigger, and file-and-fit until it finally engages properly...

Regards, Art

[Kent White]

*snip*
1. Can you replace sights easily, or is this a machine shop job?
A. Depends on the sights. OEM are easy-be sure to apply a bit of loctite to the front sight tenon before mounting so it won't come loose. For the rear sight, be sure to get a 60 degree triagular file from Brownell's to help fit it.

2. I've heard the sear spring is key to a good trigger job, not the mainspring. Yes/no?
A. It's all related. Tweaking the sear part of the combination spring (it provides pressure for the trigger, sear, disconnector, and grip safely) can do wonders. Smoothly finished action parts are important also. Don't rush anything.

3. I will spring (no pun) for a Wilson drop in barrel/bushing eventually. I want to see how good I can get it first.
A. Good idea-you may be surprised how good you can get it.

4. I've already ordered the Kuhnhausen book.
A. Yet another good idea.

5. The gun shoots a ragged hole offhand at 25' and a 3-4" group bullseye style at 50'.
A. Is this how it does now? If so, I don't think it needs much in the way of accuracy work.

6. I'm considering the Wilson Shok-Buff recoil system with full length rod guide.
A. Not really necessary.
*snip*

[George Stringer]

Art, I don't like them but I have installed several by request. They have a little tab (a la Dlask) on the bow just behind the trigger pad that you bend forward to adjust take-up. They work well, I just don't like the composite (plastic) trigger. George