Hi-Power: Beavertail or "no bite" modification?

YeeDude · January 5, 2000, 07:03 PM

I'm going to be sending off my Mk.III for customizing within the next month or two and am trying to decide between getting a beavertail welded on or to go with the more traditional "anti-bite" modification that many shops perform.

What are your experiences with the latter? (I tend to get bit by the stock setup and so I'm going to go one route or the other regardless) My friend's C&S-customized Hi-Power has the beavertail option and, to me, it looks and feels great. But it is, of course, a lot more money and I'm already going to be spending alot on other modifications.

Thanks in advance,
Kinson

labgrade · January 5, 2000, 08:52 PM

You might look into & consider just replacing stock spur hammer with the rowel (smaller, but same mass - but has a rounded contour - kinda/almost like a lanyard ring).
Replaced the stock one on mine (Denny's Shooting Suply - for about $25) & have never been bitten.

Doesn't look custom but works.

Grayfox · January 5, 2000, 10:37 PM

I agree, replace the hammer to solve your problem. My HP has the Cylinder & Slide hammer. I really like it.

YeeDude · January 6, 2000, 01:08 PM

Thanks for the comments thus far, guys. FWIW, I honestly don't think the C&S hammer alone is going to cut it for me.

Even though I'm not deliberately trying to spend a lot of money on customizing work, it's ending up that way. So I guess I want to make sure that whatever "anti-bite" modification that I choose is done right the first time around - don't want have to deal with additional downtime, possible additional refinishing costs, etc.

Any other folks have any feedback? (Thanks again.)

James K · January 6, 2000, 05:15 PM

Hi folks,

Just a general comment that hammer bite is not caused by pinching, as has been written. It is caused by the hammer being driven back so fast by the slide that it loses contact with the slide and goes back as far as it can, striking anything in the way (like the shooter's hand). It then bounces off the frame or grip safety and strikes the bottom of the slide, where it will eventually leave a mark.

Jim

fubsy · January 6, 2000, 05:42 PM

yeedude, sounds like we have either the same hand or same grip, either way I have the same problems.....I went to both the c/s hammer, trigger, sear, changed geometry on trigger,,,etc.....had a tail welded on....and here is were there can be problems....because of the cuts in the frame the metal is at different thicknesses's, my problems started having two different shops involved my local shop and Mr. Novaks, this is not a shot at either one btw...the smith at my local shop was new and I let him learn on a 9mm before going to the 40 s/w. when he welded the tail he failed to use the proper heat sink and frame drew in.....this is not a problem if you use an experienced smith or shop.....using more than one shop allows for the "well they must have etc., etc.,"" bottom line I sent the pistol to Novak's to straighten and some additional stippling and the pistol is one of my favorites to this day, ....If you dont mind a suggestion?, by all means purchase a set of spegel boot grips for the pistol. I primarily focused on control of the pistol att, the stock sights were quite good so i saved money by leaving them alone.......i went with a finish that Im not sure you can get anymore in amounts small enuf that the average shop will bother with, they only sell the stuff now in industrial quanity I understand. Its a paint and parkerizing finish by sandstrom, its still wearing well........If I can get to a scanner Ill post a pict of the pistol to ya...fubsy.

BBBBill · January 6, 2000, 10:47 PM

Fubsy, what did you/he use to make a beavertail? What kind of frame(cast or forged)? I've had a wild hair to do this on mine. I've got a good welder who has done delicate gun welding for me before. I was thinking of useing the top of an Ed Brown beavertail to save a lot of metal shaping time. Do you know what Novak's or others use.
Thanks, BBBBill

[This message has been edited by BBBBill (edited January 06, 2000).]

fubsy · January 11, 2000, 08:36 PM

bbbbill,
Im not sure what the steel was that the smith choose it was just a couple inch rectangle that he shaped as we went along, He was able to bend the bend the piece to ensure that the pistol/my hand pointed were I wanted it too.......call Novaks or cylinder and slide and ask em....Most likely they still do it ....fubsy.

January 5, 2000, 07:03 PM	#1
YeeDude Member Join Date: July 8, 1999 Location: S.F. Bay Area Posts: 41	I'm going to be sending off my Mk.III for customizing within the next month or two and am trying to decide between getting a beavertail welded on or to go with the more traditional "anti-bite" modification that many shops perform. What are your experiences with the latter? (I tend to get bit by the stock setup and so I'm going to go one route or the other regardless) My friend's C&S-customized Hi-Power has the beavertail option and, to me, it looks and feels great. But it is, of course, a lot more money and I'm already going to be spending alot on other modifications. Thanks in advance, Kinson

January 5, 2000, 08:52 PM	#2
labgrade Member In Memoriam Join Date: November 29, 1999 Location: west of a small town, CO Posts: 4,346	You might look into & consider just replacing stock spur hammer with the rowel (smaller, but same mass - but has a rounded contour - kinda/almost like a lanyard ring). Replaced the stock one on mine (Denny's Shooting Suply - for about $25) & have never been bitten. Doesn't look custom but works.

January 5, 2000, 10:37 PM	#3
Grayfox Senior Member Join Date: December 17, 1998 Posts: 1,885	I agree, replace the hammer to solve your problem. My HP has the Cylinder & Slide hammer. I really like it.

January 6, 2000, 01:08 PM	#4
YeeDude Member Join Date: July 8, 1999 Location: S.F. Bay Area Posts: 41	Thanks for the comments thus far, guys. FWIW, I honestly don't think the C&S hammer alone is going to cut it for me. Even though I'm not deliberately trying to spend a lot of money on customizing work, it's ending up that way. So I guess I want to make sure that whatever "anti-bite" modification that I choose is done right the first time around - don't want have to deal with additional downtime, possible additional refinishing costs, etc. Any other folks have any feedback? (Thanks again.)

January 6, 2000, 05:15 PM	#5
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Hi folks, Just a general comment that hammer bite is not caused by pinching, as has been written. It is caused by the hammer being driven back so fast by the slide that it loses contact with the slide and goes back as far as it can, striking anything in the way (like the shooter's hand). It then bounces off the frame or grip safety and strikes the bottom of the slide, where it will eventually leave a mark. Jim

January 6, 2000, 05:42 PM	#6
fubsy Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 1999 Posts: 1,363	yeedude, sounds like we have either the same hand or same grip, either way I have the same problems.....I went to both the c/s hammer, trigger, sear, changed geometry on trigger,,,etc.....had a tail welded on....and here is were there can be problems....because of the cuts in the frame the metal is at different thicknesses's, my problems started having two different shops involved my local shop and Mr. Novaks, this is not a shot at either one btw...the smith at my local shop was new and I let him learn on a 9mm before going to the 40 s/w. when he welded the tail he failed to use the proper heat sink and frame drew in.....this is not a problem if you use an experienced smith or shop.....using more than one shop allows for the "well they must have etc., etc.,"" bottom line I sent the pistol to Novak's to straighten and some additional stippling and the pistol is one of my favorites to this day, ....If you dont mind a suggestion?, by all means purchase a set of spegel boot grips for the pistol. I primarily focused on control of the pistol att, the stock sights were quite good so i saved money by leaving them alone.......i went with a finish that Im not sure you can get anymore in amounts small enuf that the average shop will bother with, they only sell the stuff now in industrial quanity I understand. Its a paint and parkerizing finish by sandstrom, its still wearing well........If I can get to a scanner Ill post a pict of the pistol to ya...fubsy.

January 6, 2000, 10:47 PM	#7
BBBBill Senior Member Join Date: January 5, 2000 Location: Alabama Posts: 197	Fubsy, what did you/he use to make a beavertail? What kind of frame(cast or forged)? I've had a wild hair to do this on mine. I've got a good welder who has done delicate gun welding for me before. I was thinking of useing the top of an Ed Brown beavertail to save a lot of metal shaping time. Do you know what Novak's or others use. Thanks, BBBBill [This message has been edited by BBBBill (edited January 06, 2000).]

January 11, 2000, 08:36 PM	#8
fubsy Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 1999 Posts: 1,363	bbbbill, Im not sure what the steel was that the smith choose it was just a couple inch rectangle that he shaped as we went along, He was able to bend the bend the piece to ensure that the pistol/my hand pointed were I wanted it too.......call Novaks or cylinder and slide and ask em....Most likely they still do it ....fubsy.