Which S&W revolver to get?

[Gungnir]

I am in the market for a 4" S&W revolver, and my local gun shop has three specimens that I really like, but as I lack experience with S&W products I would like to hear your thoughts on the matter. It will be a range gun only, and will be fed a steady diet of .38 with the occational box of .357 thrown into the mix. Collectability is a factor to me as well. The contenders are:

A model 66 no dash: Original wooden grips and stainless steel rear sight. I really like the original look and feel of this gun, but the guy in the store gave me a stern warning to be very careful when feeding it .357, which makes me wonder if the gun is robust enough for my needs. 99% condition.

A model 586-4: I like that the fireing pin is on the hammer (it looks better to me), and that there is no lock, but I am not fond of the factory rubber grips, which I will probably change for a pair of walnut grips to match the beautiful blued finish. 99% condition.

A model 686-4 Performance Center Security Special: Nice trigger, and I like the rounded grip frame. Also probably the most collectable gun of the lot because it is a PC gun. The bead-blasted finish has a lot of lines and flat spots in it, which annoys me, and the gun is also about 50% more expensive than either of the other two. Probably around 95% condition.

Given these options, which gun would you get?

[Driftwood Johnson]

A model 66 no dash: Original wooden grips and stainless steel rear sight. I really like the original look and feel of this gun, but the guy in the store gave me a stern warning to be very careful when feeding it .357, which makes me wonder if the gun is robust enough for my needs. 99% condition.

Howdy

I wish I had a dollar for everything that has been written about shooting 357 Magnum cartridges in a K frame Smith.

Check here for a description of the problem. Be sure to go to the last page to see the photographs that illustrate the problem.

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.ph...damage.607301/

Bottom line is, occasional use of 357 Magnum ammunition in a K frame S&W revolver will not damage it.


I have no opinion about the newer guns except for the fact that none of the guns you mention is particularly collectable.

Given these options, which gun would you get?

None of the above.

[DaleA]

First off, don’t let the high post count fool you. I’m kind of out of my depth here when it comes to ‘collector value’ topics. If I knew anything about collector value I would have bought a truck load of Colt Pythons back in the $350 days of the early 1970’s. Also I wouldn’t be flat out gobsmacked flabbergasted that someone would pay hundreds of dollars for JUST the cardboard BOX that a gun came in. But this is the internet and if we didn’t comment on stuff we didn’t know about there wouldn’t be all that many comments and the real experts wouldn’t have the fun of correcting us and spreading some real knowledge around so here goes…

If you’re going to have fun shooting the gun, which it sounds like you want to do (and I’m entirely in favor of this by the way) then I think you’re kissing away a goodly portion of the ‘collector value’. Those Pythons that sell for $3,000 are IMhO the ones that have sat in their original box in the gun safe of some hoarder that would take it out a couple times a year, lift the cover just enough to see that there was still a gun in the box and then cackle gleefully and return it to the safe. (These guns are now being sold by his widow.)

All that being said, I think I still might get the 686 because you said you liked the trigger and being an S&W Performance Center gun I have this idea they smoothed it out in several ways and it might be more accurate and shoot more without problems…Still if you got the 586 you’d have a NICE blued gun and money to go get a trigger job if, after shooting it a while, you figured it needed one.

Remember, they are still making these guns and if you get one and really like it but keep gnashing your teeth because you didn’t get the Performance Center gun well, save up and get a shiny new Performance Center model that you can send back if it’s got problems like the 686 you mentioned. An S&W Performance Center revolver is on my bucket list.

Good luck and I hope you let us know how it works out.

[dgludwig]

I don't think the Performance Center is worth 50% more than its more pedestrian counterpart. I'd go for the Model 586-4. Over time, I wouldn't be surprised if the 586 variants don't gain collector status/value faster than even Performance Center 686 models. The blued finish of the 586 adds to the looks factor imo and, as you reported, the condition is slightly better than the Model 686 you're looking at.

[buck460XVR]

As far as collector value, the 586-4 in 99% would seem to have the most appeal. Does not make it worth the most. If collect-ability is a major factor, shoot-ability probably isn't a concern or vice-versa. For a range gun, one needs something durable, accurate and pleasant to shoot. Outta the one's you mention, the P.C. 686 would shine. Shooting it regularly(even with .38s) will not depreciate it like shooting the 586. 99% is pretty good shape. Changing grips may make it prettier, but won't make it shoot more comfortably. With .38s it won't probably be noticeable tho. Since it's a -4 also, doesn't it too have the hammer mounted firing pin? To me the appeal of a K-Frame .357 would be if it's use was primarily for SD, either as a car/truck gun, nightstand gun or CC.

Sooooo, iffin I already had one or two good shooting 686s and was looking at having a real pretty L-Frame to show my friends and maybe shoot once, I'd get the 586. Price would be a large factor, as if it was cheap(as in the legitimate price frame of a used 66), I'd jump on it.

Iffin I wanted a gun to shoot 500 to 5000 rounds a year outta at the range, I didn't have a L-Frame 686, and knowing what I do about those older P.C. guns, I'd probably jump on the P.C. if the price was right. Odds are it will always be worth at least what you paid for it.

If I was looking for a .357/.38 for EDC it would be the 66.

[bobn]

the 66. light enough to handle and carry in the field. heavy enough to shoot. had all of them> lighter, smaller, bigger bore, heaver, longer, etc. all gone except the 66. bobn

[mete]

The design of the K-frame 357 was to the typical police use. 90 % 38spl, 10 % 357 mag ! After it was shown that wasn't sensible for typical shootouts, so the 38 + P was introduced, then the L frame was born !

[CajunBass]

Without a doubt, the Model 66.

If someone gave me a 586 or a 686, I'd sell them and buy a Model 19 or 66.

Not that there is anything wrong with them at all, I've just never had any interest in them.

[ammo.crafter]

585 without a doubt.

[lamarw]

I have a Model 66-2 with a 2 & 1/2" barrel. I also have a Model 686-2 with a 4" barrel (not a PCSS). I do not have a Model 586, but if you closed your eyes its the same as my 686.

If I were to shoot .357 Magnums a majority of the time, I would choose the 586. If I were to use it as a carry and .357 Magnum for defensive use, I would choose the Model 66. If I did not already have the 686, I would choose a 686 over a 586.

With just consideration as to which might be most desirable in the future, I would select the Model 66.

Your are blessed to of found these three great revolvers available to you under one roof. It makes a tough decision easier.

Let us know what you choose and please provide some pictures of your new revolver.

[Rockrivr1]

I have the exact 66 you've described that I've owned for years. It's had thousands of 38s and hundreds of 357 through her without any issue. I brought the 66 to a S&W event at their factory where they offered to check any S&W brought in. They gave her two thumbs up and off the the range I went.

Don't listen to all the internet hyper-bowl, especially about the 66. Most is passed on information that they've never seen. I also own the 686 and it's the workhorse of S&W. It can eat anything you decide to feed her for as long as you'd like.

[springer99]

Go for either the 66 or 586; which-ever gun speaks to you. You'll probably wear-out before either gun does. The 686 PC gun is certainly a very nice weapon with some enhanced features, hence the higher price. The 686 L frames are, IMO, what a well-built, well-engineered revolver should be. It will, however, never be a collectable piece.

[redrick]

A gun you shoot a lot is not going to be bring collector money when you go to sell it , so I wouldn't wear about that part .

I have a 686 and it is one of my favorite range guns , very accurate with it . It was my first handgun . The 586 is just a blue model of it . If you use it a lot it will show wear faster on the bluing and you will have to keep it oiled more than a stainless gun for rust . But stainless will show scratches if you are careless and rust .

I like the looks of the 66 , to me it is one of the nicest looking revolvers made and if I ever find a 4" at a good price I will buy it .

I would just stay away from the models with the lock if I wanted a collector . I would get the one that feels best to me and enjoy shooting it .

[BigJimP]

The 586 and the 686 are both L frames...and the 66 is a K frame.../ so it depends on what fits your hands the best.

I like both the K and L frames...but I tend to prefer the N frame over both of the smaller frames ( so N frames in .357 ...older versions are model 27's and 28's or the newer 627's ).

A steady diet of .357 Mag if you are firing the 158gr bullet it was designed for...you will probably never have a problem with the K frames...( I have model 66's and 19's --- in 2 1/2" and 4" .../ and all of them have 20,000 or more rounds thru them, with no indication of any issues at forcing cones.

Of the 3 you list, I would take the model 66.

[Gungnir]

Sorry I was gone so long.. Life happened.

I think that I might have misused the term 'collectibility'. I definitely want a shooter, not a safe queen, but I want to enjoy a classic firearm, made back in the day where revolvers had features that I like that you don't see on newer revolvers. I really like the looks of pinned barrels, recessed cylinders, and hammer-mounted firing pins, which is the primary reason that I am going for a used revolver rather than a new one.

Anyway, your comments have been very helpful in helping me decide. The gun I went with was... None of the above. I quickly decided that I would like a model 66, but while reading up on them I became convinced that the improvements made to the 66-1 were for the better, even though I do like the look of the stainless rear sight on the no-dash model. And lucky for me, the seller just happened to have a 66-1 in stock, so I brought that, and it should be with me in a few short months when the paperwork is done. Thank you for your help

[Jimmy10mm]

If I'd have seen this thread earlier I would have suggested the 586, but now that you've gone with the 66-1 that is fine too.

To enjoy your revolver even more get a copy of this book written by Bill Jordan, a great shooter, and the man who encouraged S&W to develop the model 19/66 to begin with.

https://www.amazon.com/Second-Place-...=UTF8&qid=&sr=

[Buckeye!]

586 .... Great revolver .... Yikes u went tbe 66. .. another great revolver .. great choice !!

[dgludwig]

QUOTE: "... And lucky for me, the seller just happened to have a 66-1 in stock, so I brought that, and it should be with me in a few short months when the paperwork is done..."

A few short months??? Where do you and/or he live at that would take the better part of the year to consummate a firearm transaction? When you're waiting with great anticipation for the arrival of a new gun, months are never "short".

I'm sure you'll love that Model 66. One of the nicest revolvers ever made, imo.

[HighValleyRanch]

and it should be with me in a few short months when the paperwork is done. Thank you for your help

It says that he lives in sunny Scandinavia.
Boy, now I feel a little better about living in sunny California

[Gungnir]

Around here, freedom in any form is treated as a liability, and none more so than the freedom to own firearms. To combat these liabilities, the EU and the local government competes with each other to come up with increasingly troublesome rules and regulations, and as of right now the paperwork takes a few months for every single handgun. That is when you have a sport shooters license in the first place, which takes two years to get.

Things may change either way in the future, depending on wether or not europe will destabilize and balkanize during a potential economic crisis or demographic winter.

[Jimmy10mm]

Around here, freedom in any form is treated as a liability, and none more so than the freedom to own firearms. To combat these liabilities, the EU and the local government competes with each other to come up with increasingly troublesome rules and regulations, and as of right now the paperwork takes a few months for every single handgun. That is when you have a sport shooters license in the first place, which takes two years to get.

All they need to do is adopt the same gun laws that Chicago in the USA has, that seems to have worked out great for them ...........

[RKG]

I am with those who say "Without a doubt, the Model 66," but my reason is a tad different:

The Model 66 is an endangered species; if you let this one go, you may never have another chance. The L-Frames, on the other hand, are modern current production; you can go out and buy one (and, if necessary, order one) any time you please.

Since we are all products of our own biases, you should know mine: I just about never shoot .357 Magnum rounds out of my K-Frame .357 Magnum revolvers. My reason, though, has more to do with the fact that I find real full-house .357 loads unpleasant to shoot in a K-Frame revolver, and if I feel the need to blast some .357 ammo, I have a number of N-Frame .357s from which to choose. On the other hand, I regard a K-Frame .357 Smith & Wesson loaded with middlin' to hot .38 Special ammo to be just about the epitome of firearms art and efficiency, and for many years my default carry gun was a 3" bull barrel Model 65 loaded with nearly full punch .38s.

[2ndsojourn]

From the responses, the OP should get all three.

[CDR_Glock]

Buy what feels best in your hand and which trigger feels best for you.

I have several S&W with locks. Never had an issue with any after hundreds and hundreds of rounds.

The Performance Center revolvers have a trigger job and smoother internals. They are always my first choice.

I have 3 PC
629 7.5" Hunter 44 Mag 6 shots
586 L Comp 357 Mag 3" 7 shots
627 357 5" 357 Mag 8 shots

Good luck. 4" barrels are a great choice for revolver length for size, handling and concealment.


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