RUGER Mk III Anxiety....

DAKA · January 31, 2014, 08:53 AM

My MkIII is now reaching 1500 round count since dis-assembly and cleaning,
I do clean as much as I can without taking it down.
The first (and last) time I took it apart I jammed it up so badly that I sent to Ruger to be "fixed".....they were very nice about it and paid the shipping, and did some replacements at no charge.
NOW, do I try again, or have a gunsmith clean it? Woe is me...
ps, the videos make it look easy, but......once bitten....

g.willikers · January 31, 2014, 09:34 AM

It's hard to understand the world wide problem with the disassembly and reassembly of the Ruger rimfire pistol.
Just follow the directions, exactly.
Not sort of follow them, and make up stuff as you go, but just what it says in the manual.
The only real hassle is getting the hammer strut lined up with the mainspring plunger.
But it's really easy to tell if it's not; the mainspring won't compress enough to allow the housing to even go into the gun completely.

NoSecondBest · January 31, 2014, 09:54 AM

I know a person who took theirs apart and couldn't get it back together. They took it to two gunsmiths before the gun could be reassembled. It is a little tricky and most shooters have a great deal of trouble with doing it. I'd suggest you find someone to show you how to do it rather than go through the same hassle you went through the last time. If you couldn't get it the last time you probably aren't going to this time.....no offense, but I assume you spent a lot of time trying before sending it back. It is something you need to learn how to do. FYI....you can go a lot longer than 1500 rounds without disassemby. I'd think it would be much, much more than that number. I'd think you could go for several cases of ammo by just cleaning what you can get at without disassembling the gun. About 99% of the crud in the gun ends up in the chamber, bolt face, and in the barrel. Almost none gets down into the gun.

g.willikers · January 31, 2014, 10:16 AM

The term "gunsmith" can be rather loosely defined.
Can't imagine a real gunsmith being at a loss with the Ruger.
More than likely, the ones described were counter jockeys, recently promoted from floor sweep.
And they didn't read the manual.

James K · January 31, 2014, 02:31 PM

Dis- and re-assembling the Ruger is not hard. Follow the instructions and just think a bit about how it has to go together.

Jim

NoSecondBest · January 31, 2014, 02:55 PM

Quote:

The term "gunsmith" can be rather loosely defined.
Can't imagine a real gunsmith being at a loss with the Ruger.
More than likely, the ones described were counter jockeys, recently promoted from floor sweep.
And they didn't read the manual.

Yes, it can be loosely defined. However, most gunsmiths specialize in some type of gun work. Some do pistols, some do rifles, some woodwork, etc. A good all around gunsmith doesn't exist in most local gunshops. Most gunsmiths at a local level do the easier types of work and if you want something "special" done you send it out. That being said, your reply to the OP was a little arrogant in my opinion. I'd try not to belittle the person who has a problem you feel is fairly simple. It wasn't to them and that's why they put the post up on here. I can put these guns together fairly easily. I've owned them for many years and have owned several. I still have some intelligent people bring them to me time to time to put them back together. It's not "easy" for everyone.

zincwarrior · January 31, 2014, 02:55 PM

Three things:
1. I sympathize. I had a target Ruger that was the best shooter I've ever touched. It was perfect and we shot it until it fell apart from use. We have another Ruger we have as well. However I don't recommend them for just that reason. I hated taking them apart. In contrast to Beretta, S&W, Browning, and your average nuclear reactor, its like they were intentionally made difficult, adn this was before they had magazine disconnects installed. Seriously I have at least 18 semi-autos and revolvers that I can think of and they are head and shoulders more difficult.

Having said that you can clean it very effectively without field stripping it.

2. The hard part of putting it together is the little bit that swings loosely. DO IT EXACTLY AS IT SAYS IN THE MANUAL AND I MEAN ANGLES OF PISTOL AND EVERYTHING and you should be ok.

3. There is a 3rd party manufacturer that makes a part or two to install into the Ruger, making it more like a Browning in that you can remove the bolt by undoing one screw with an Allen wrench. I'd highly recommend it. One option is to take it back to the guy who re-assembled it (after you shoot and clean it a few thousand more rounds) and have them install this kit for you.

I think this is it:
http://www.eabco.com/store/ruger-mar...majestic-arms/

Here's a longer article on it which explains better:
http://gunsmagazine.com/majestic-arms-parts/

Snyper · January 31, 2014, 03:15 PM

There's no real need to take it apart.

Remove the grips and spray it with carb cleaner and don't worry so much about it as long as it still functions

Only take it apart if it stops working

Sharkbite · January 31, 2014, 03:20 PM

Yep

Spray it out and brush the bore... Done

James K · January 31, 2014, 03:36 PM

We normally cleaned Ruger autos by removing the grips, locking back the bolts and dumping them in the sonic tank. Removing the grips was for better circulation of the cleaner; the plastic grips would not be damaged, though wood ones might. Still, as I said above, cleaning a Ruger is not that hard. FWIW, the principle is the same as for the Colt Woodsman.

Jim

WardenWolf · January 31, 2014, 03:52 PM

You have to hold the pistol at an angle so the hammer leg goes into the detent in the mainspring housing when closing it. When you "jammed it up", it sounds to me like what actually happened was it got in a tiny metal crossbar that's just under the hammer leg. When that happens, just take it back apart and pull the trigger to release the hammer to move, then do like I said and assemble it properly. I know ALL about the Ruger pistols thanks to way too much time spent on my father's Mark I. Ruger probably fixed it within 5 minutes and sent it on its way.

Dixie Gunsmithing · January 31, 2014, 03:53 PM

Watch this video;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOoznh7V4yM

reassembly;

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHNpz...8D3048&index=7

g.willikers · February 1, 2014, 08:53 AM

The grips can't be removed on some of them, like the earlier ones with the polymer frames.
Gotta' take those apart to clean them well.
No insult intended with my reply, just an emphasis to read the manual and follow the instructions - works every time.
The chronic disparagement of one of the finest rimfire pistol designs ever invented is very unfair to Ruger.
Especially since they went to great pains to write such a good owners manual for them.
Once everything is in place, there's nothing to loosen up on them, unlike other, "easier" to assemble guns.

Dixie Gunsmithing · February 1, 2014, 11:22 AM

I would say, that two of the best in designs in .22 auto pistols goes to both Ruger and High Standard. I would have put in the Colt Woodsman, but we all know about the problems with the assembly lock on these, so I would say they run a distant 3rd.

Also, I do not count the last High Standards from Hartford, with the screw takedown, as they could become loose, but the button takedown was self-tightening.

boondocker385 · February 1, 2014, 12:08 PM

if you are an "instructions guy" you should have no problems... if not, seek out someone to teach you...we all learn differently...

Quentin2 · February 1, 2014, 01:53 PM

Due to the magazine safety the Mark III is a little harder to reassemble than earlier versions plus early owners manuals didn't explain it properly. I got an updated manual from Ruger for the one I bought in 2006.

Since I already had a Mark I and Mark II I figured it out, you just have to turn the frame 183.5 degrees, insert the magazine, count to 5, remove magazine, curse, curse again, then the locking lever snaps in!

Yeah, a YouTube video specific to the Mark III will help. And Ruger probably has a PDF manual you'd want to read if yours is the old one.

Seriously, by 1500 rounds it is much easier as the gun isn't as tight fitting as when brand new. I think it is important to feel comfortable field stripping it so go ahead, you won't have to send it back to Ruger if you're fairly good with your hands.

James K · February 1, 2014, 08:17 PM

That is a pretty good assembly video, though he does a lot of flipping the pistol that really isn't needed. But NOTICE where he pushes in on the mainspring housing to make sure there is spring tension. That is important. If you do this and don't have spring tension, stop right there and check the hammer strut.

Jim

Pilot · February 1, 2014, 08:57 PM

Unbelievable, just unbelievable.

CowTowner · February 3, 2014, 08:40 AM

Here's a step-by-step with pictures I use just to check myself:
http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm

JWT · February 3, 2014, 09:32 AM

The secret is to follow the instructions EXACTLY. Tip the gun when the instructions say to etc. Doing that, it will go back together.

jlbpa · February 8, 2014, 09:57 PM

I have had mine since the early eighties....bull barrel. Comes apart goes together ...not a problem. Astonishing to hear otherwise.

Took it apart to put a new volquartsen trigger in. Money well spent!!
Cleaned it up well before reassembling and it as smooth as a swiss watch again.

Wish I lived out in the woods somewhere where I could use it to shoot back yard vermin. I love that pistol. ....even used it for my conceal carry class...and consequently had the tightest group on the target :-)

jimbob86 · February 8, 2014, 10:17 PM

Quote:

I know a person who took theirs apart and couldn't get it back together. They took it to two gunsmiths before the gun could be reassembled.

Mehbee I should hang out a shingle ......

Quote:

if you are an "instructions guy" you should have no problems... if not, seek out someone to teach you...we all learn differently...

Indeed we do- tell me something, I'll forget it in moments, if I read it, it''l keep a bit longer, and longer still if I write it out myself...... If I really want to learn something, I just have to DO it. The more I do it, the easier it gets, to the point I can do it without thinking about it.....

I had trouble the first couple of times I took mine apart .... now I can take it down completely and put it back together in under 2 minutes, on a good day.

Drill, Baby, Drill!*

*Drill- as in to practice repetetively.

Skans · February 11, 2014, 07:21 AM

Everyone should be required to disassemble and reassemble a Ruger .22. It's a good lesson on following directions and will give you confidence to tackle other projects.

Oh, and if you are going to take your Mark III down, don't forget to clean the little plunger and spring that sits on top of the trigger. It's the last thing you take apart but probably the most important part to clean.

Don P · February 11, 2014, 08:18 AM

At this site you will find the kits that allow you to remove the bolt for cleaning just by removing a allen screw, link to the part
http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchan...egory_Code=VC2
link to the web site,
http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchan...Store_Code=RSC

VaPlinker · February 16, 2014, 10:45 AM

I had problems field stripping my 22/45 Lite. The mainspring housing was extremely difficult to pull out, and the barrel was held too tight to the body. There is a metal tab in the body that reaches up and hooks the barrel. Examining the bottom of the barrel where the tab fits into the barrel, I could see that the tab was digging into the barrel metal. After filing just enough off that tab so I could re-seat the barrel without a mallet, I can field strip and reassemble my gun without problem. Now that the barrel can be properly attached, the hole for the main spring lines up much better and the spring can be pulled and replaced easily. I have a feeling that when the barrel was anodized, the anodized layer was too thick, making the fit much too tight. Before hand I had to really whack the barrel many times with a rubber mallet during disassembly, and again during reassembly to line up the holes for the main spring housing. Now I can leave the mallet in its drawer.

January 31, 2014, 08:53 AM	#1
DAKA Member Join Date: May 5, 2011 Location: S FL Posts: 59	RUGER Mk III Anxiety.... My MkIII is now reaching 1500 round count since dis-assembly and cleaning, I do clean as much as I can without taking it down. The first (and last) time I took it apart I jammed it up so badly that I sent to Ruger to be "fixed".....they were very nice about it and paid the shipping, and did some replacements at no charge. NOW, do I try again, or have a gunsmith clean it? Woe is me... ps, the videos make it look easy, but......once bitten....

January 31, 2014, 09:34 AM	#2
g.willikers Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 10,442	It's hard to understand the world wide problem with the disassembly and reassembly of the Ruger rimfire pistol. Just follow the directions, exactly. Not sort of follow them, and make up stuff as you go, but just what it says in the manual. The only real hassle is getting the hammer strut lined up with the mainspring plunger. But it's really easy to tell if it's not; the mainspring won't compress enough to allow the housing to even go into the gun completely. __________________ Walt Kelly, alias Pogo, sez: “Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent.” Last edited by g.willikers; January 31, 2014 at 09:41 AM.

January 31, 2014, 10:16 AM	#4
g.willikers Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 10,442	The term "gunsmith" can be rather loosely defined. Can't imagine a real gunsmith being at a loss with the Ruger. More than likely, the ones described were counter jockeys, recently promoted from floor sweep. And they didn't read the manual. __________________ Walt Kelly, alias Pogo, sez: “Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent.”

January 31, 2014, 02:55 PM	#7
zincwarrior Senior Member Join Date: July 1, 2011 Location: Texas, land of Tex-Mex Posts: 2,259	Three things: 1. I sympathize. I had a target Ruger that was the best shooter I've ever touched. It was perfect and we shot it until it fell apart from use. We have another Ruger we have as well. However I don't recommend them for just that reason. I hated taking them apart. In contrast to Beretta, S&W, Browning, and your average nuclear reactor, its like they were intentionally made difficult, adn this was before they had magazine disconnects installed. Seriously I have at least 18 semi-autos and revolvers that I can think of and they are head and shoulders more difficult. Having said that you can clean it very effectively without field stripping it. 2. The hard part of putting it together is the little bit that swings loosely. DO IT EXACTLY AS IT SAYS IN THE MANUAL AND I MEAN ANGLES OF PISTOL AND EVERYTHING and you should be ok. 3. There is a 3rd party manufacturer that makes a part or two to install into the Ruger, making it more like a Browning in that you can remove the bolt by undoing one screw with an Allen wrench. I'd highly recommend it. One option is to take it back to the guy who re-assembled it (after you shoot and clean it a few thousand more rounds) and have them install this kit for you. I think this is it: http://www.eabco.com/store/ruger-mar...majestic-arms/ Here's a longer article on it which explains better: http://gunsmagazine.com/majestic-arms-parts/ Last edited by zincwarrior; January 31, 2014 at 03:04 PM.

January 31, 2014, 03:15 PM	#8
Snyper Senior Member Join Date: December 16, 2013 Location: Eastern NC Posts: 3,047	There's no real need to take it apart. Remove the grips and spray it with carb cleaner and don't worry so much about it as long as it still functions Only take it apart if it stops working __________________ One shot, one kill

January 31, 2014, 09:54 AM	#3
NoSecondBest Senior Member Join Date: December 7, 2009 Location: Western New York Posts: 2,736	I know a person who took theirs apart and couldn't get it back together. They took it to two gunsmiths before the gun could be reassembled. It is a little tricky and most shooters have a great deal of trouble with doing it. I'd suggest you find someone to show you how to do it rather than go through the same hassle you went through the last time. If you couldn't get it the last time you probably aren't going to this time.....no offense, but I assume you spent a lot of time trying before sending it back. It is something you need to learn how to do. FYI....you can go a lot longer than 1500 rounds without disassemby. I'd think it would be much, much more than that number. I'd think you could go for several cases of ammo by just cleaning what you can get at without disassembling the gun. About 99% of the crud in the gun ends up in the chamber, bolt face, and in the barrel. Almost none gets down into the gun.

January 31, 2014, 02:31 PM	#5
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Dis- and re-assembling the Ruger is not hard. Follow the instructions and just think a bit about how it has to go together. Jim

January 31, 2014, 03:20 PM	#9
Sharkbite Senior Member Join Date: November 4, 2013 Location: Western slope of Colorado Posts: 3,679	Yep Spray it out and brush the bore... Done

January 31, 2014, 03:36 PM	#10
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	We normally cleaned Ruger autos by removing the grips, locking back the bolts and dumping them in the sonic tank. Removing the grips was for better circulation of the cleaner; the plastic grips would not be damaged, though wood ones might. Still, as I said above, cleaning a Ruger is not that hard. FWIW, the principle is the same as for the Colt Woodsman. Jim

January 31, 2014, 03:52 PM	#11
WardenWolf Junior member Join Date: December 12, 2013 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 135	You have to hold the pistol at an angle so the hammer leg goes into the detent in the mainspring housing when closing it. When you "jammed it up", it sounds to me like what actually happened was it got in a tiny metal crossbar that's just under the hammer leg. When that happens, just take it back apart and pull the trigger to release the hammer to move, then do like I said and assemble it properly. I know ALL about the Ruger pistols thanks to way too much time spent on my father's Mark I. Ruger probably fixed it within 5 minutes and sent it on its way.

January 31, 2014, 03:53 PM	#12
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	Watch this video; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOoznh7V4yM reassembly; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHNpz...8D3048&index=7

February 1, 2014, 08:53 AM	#13
g.willikers Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 10,442	The grips can't be removed on some of them, like the earlier ones with the polymer frames. Gotta' take those apart to clean them well. No insult intended with my reply, just an emphasis to read the manual and follow the instructions - works every time. The chronic disparagement of one of the finest rimfire pistol designs ever invented is very unfair to Ruger. Especially since they went to great pains to write such a good owners manual for them. Once everything is in place, there's nothing to loosen up on them, unlike other, "easier" to assemble guns. __________________ Walt Kelly, alias Pogo, sez: “Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent.” Last edited by g.willikers; February 1, 2014 at 09:06 AM.

February 1, 2014, 11:22 AM	#14
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	I would say, that two of the best in designs in .22 auto pistols goes to both Ruger and High Standard. I would have put in the Colt Woodsman, but we all know about the problems with the assembly lock on these, so I would say they run a distant 3rd. Also, I do not count the last High Standards from Hartford, with the screw takedown, as they could become loose, but the button takedown was self-tightening.

February 1, 2014, 12:08 PM	#15
boondocker385 Senior Member Join Date: March 6, 2013 Posts: 640	if you are an "instructions guy" you should have no problems... if not, seek out someone to teach you...we all learn differently... __________________ No second place finishes in a gun fight.

February 1, 2014, 01:53 PM	#16
Quentin2 Senior Member Join Date: June 18, 2009 Location: NorthWest USA Posts: 1,996	Due to the magazine safety the Mark III is a little harder to reassemble than earlier versions plus early owners manuals didn't explain it properly. I got an updated manual from Ruger for the one I bought in 2006. Since I already had a Mark I and Mark II I figured it out, you just have to turn the frame 183.5 degrees, insert the magazine, count to 5, remove magazine, curse, curse again, then the locking lever snaps in! Yeah, a YouTube video specific to the Mark III will help. And Ruger probably has a PDF manual you'd want to read if yours is the old one. Seriously, by 1500 rounds it is much easier as the gun isn't as tight fitting as when brand new. I think it is important to feel comfortable field stripping it so go ahead, you won't have to send it back to Ruger if you're fairly good with your hands.

February 1, 2014, 08:17 PM	#17
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	That is a pretty good assembly video, though he does a lot of flipping the pistol that really isn't needed. But NOTICE where he pushes in on the mainspring housing to make sure there is spring tension. That is important. If you do this and don't have spring tension, stop right there and check the hammer strut. Jim

February 1, 2014, 08:57 PM	#18
Pilot Senior Member Join Date: December 21, 2000 Posts: 4,193	Unbelievable, just unbelievable. __________________ Pilot

February 3, 2014, 08:40 AM	#19
CowTowner Senior Member Join Date: October 17, 2007 Location: Cowtown of course! Posts: 1,747	Here's a step-by-step with pictures I use just to check myself: http://www.guntalk-online.com/detailstrip.htm __________________ NRA Chief Range Safety Officer, Home Firearms Safety, Pistol and Rifle Instructor *“Today, we need a nation of Minutemen, citizens who are not only prepared to take arms, but citizens who regard the preservation of freedom as the basic purpose of their daily life......”* President John F. Kennedy

February 3, 2014, 09:32 AM	#20
JWT Senior Member Join Date: March 16, 2007 Location: Southern Arizona Posts: 3,888	The secret is to follow the instructions EXACTLY. Tip the gun when the instructions say to etc. Doing that, it will go back together.

February 8, 2014, 09:57 PM	#21
jlbpa Senior Member Join Date: September 25, 2000 Posts: 196	I have had mine since the early eighties....bull barrel. Comes apart goes together ...not a problem. Astonishing to hear otherwise. Took it apart to put a new volquartsen trigger in. Money well spent!! Cleaned it up well before reassembling and it as smooth as a swiss watch again. Wish I lived out in the woods somewhere where I could use it to shoot back yard vermin. I love that pistol. ....even used it for my conceal carry class...and consequently had the tightest group on the target :-)

February 11, 2014, 07:21 AM	#23
Skans Senior Member Join Date: November 20, 2008 Posts: 11,132	Everyone should be required to disassemble and reassemble a Ruger .22. It's a good lesson on following directions and will give you confidence to tackle other projects. Oh, and if you are going to take your Mark III down, don't forget to clean the little plunger and spring that sits on top of the trigger. It's the last thing you take apart but probably the most important part to clean.

February 11, 2014, 08:18 AM	#24
Don P Senior Member Join Date: December 17, 2005 Location: Swamp dweller Posts: 6,187	At this site you will find the kits that allow you to remove the bolt for cleaning just by removing a allen screw, link to the part http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchan...egory_Code=VC2 link to the web site, http://www.rimfiresports.com/merchan...Store_Code=RSC __________________ *NRA Life Member, NRA Chief Range Safety Officer, NRA Certified Pistol Instructor,, USPSA & Steel Challange NROI Range Officer, ICORE Range Officer, ,MAG 40 Graduate* *As you are, I once was, As I am, You will be.*

February 16, 2014, 10:45 AM	#25
VaPlinker Member Join Date: February 15, 2014 Location: King George, Va Posts: 23	I had problems field stripping my 22/45 Lite. The mainspring housing was extremely difficult to pull out, and the barrel was held too tight to the body. There is a metal tab in the body that reaches up and hooks the barrel. Examining the bottom of the barrel where the tab fits into the barrel, I could see that the tab was digging into the barrel metal. After filing just enough off that tab so I could re-seat the barrel without a mallet, I can field strip and reassemble my gun without problem. Now that the barrel can be properly attached, the hole for the main spring lines up much better and the spring can be pulled and replaced easily. I have a feeling that when the barrel was anodized, the anodized layer was too thick, making the fit much too tight. Before hand I had to really whack the barrel many times with a rubber mallet during disassembly, and again during reassembly to line up the holes for the main spring housing. Now I can leave the mallet in its drawer.