just started reloading, and i need help.

iammykel · July 3, 2012, 09:13 PM

i recently purchased my own relaoding gear. sick of paying 2 bucks a bullet. well i useto have a friend do it but i wanted to do it myself. any way the loads were 100g speer bt bullets with 36 g imr 4350 and a cci primer. what kind of a difference will i see switching to the 36g imr 4895 with a remington primer. i still want to shoot the 100g bullets but i have a box of 75s that came with the equipment. and i am noticing some of my rounds are difficult to chamber, they go in but not as easily as a factory round. the brass i am using is for a 308 or 7mm 08 sized down for my 243. any help would be appreachated so i dont do something stupid and blow my self up. lol thanks

chris in va · July 3, 2012, 09:29 PM

What dies are you using, and what reloading data are you using? Do you have a reloading manual?

Brian Pfleuger · July 3, 2012, 09:52 PM

Follow the load data from published, industry sources. You won't do anything stupid and blow yourself up if you start at the suggested loads and work up toward max while looking for pressure signs described in your manual.

I'd also suggest that you buy 243 brass. It is not rare or expensive.

Lost Sheep · July 3, 2012, 10:36 PM

I am just guessing (because there are so many possible causes), but the first thing I would look at would be the sizing or the neck crimping.

Do you have a good set of calipers? Measure the diameter of the neck and compare to SAAMI specifications and to the diameter of a round that chambers easily.

If the problem were not with the 75 grain bullets, I would suspect the bullet may be impinging on the rifling, but since the 75s will be shorter than the 100s, that is not a likely source of the problem.

The length of the cartridge might be the problem (solution, case trimming).

The position of the shoulder might be the problem (solution, adjust your full-length sizing die)

If the foregoing has you scratching your head, (solution, get a couple of reloading manuals and study up).

So, tell us something about yourself and what equipment you are using, your brand of dies, are you full-length sizing or neck-sizing and stuff like that. We can diagnose better the more we know.

Thanks for asking our advice and welcome to reloading.

Lost Sheep

dacaur · July 4, 2012, 09:32 AM

Quote:

any way the loads were 100g speer bt bullets with 36 g imr 4350 and a cci primer. what kind of a difference will i see switching to the 36g imr 4895 with a remington primer.

It doesnt work that way, you cant just change powders and use the same charge. IMR 4895 packs more power than IMR 4350.

According to IMR's load data, 36gr of imr 4350 is more than 2 grains below starting load for a 100gr bullet, while the same amount of imr 4895 is OVER the max load.

get a loading manual, or at least look up load data on the powder MFG's site.

elrotundamundo · July 4, 2012, 10:10 AM

I suggest you postpone reloading a few days and spend the time learning about the science and art of reloading. First, get a reloading manual and read all the pages on cases, primers, powders, bullets and how they interrelate. The difference between the best load in any given caliber and a dangerous one can be small and the substitution of any one component might make the difference.

Although it can seem overly complex, most of the work has been done for us already by the manual developers to give us a safe starting point for loads. After choosing which caliber, case, primer, powder and bullet we want to use, it is as simple as beginning with the safe starting load in the manual and working up. At this point, the only variable becomes the powder, which is increased in small increments, watching for pressure signs. Any substitution of the other components requires starting over from the manual's starting load for the new combination.

Next, spend a day or two going through this forum and reading any topic that applies to your situation as well as general reloading topics. Go back through the older posts in the forum and you will soon get a feel for the guiding principles of reloading. This forum is an indispensable resource for that. Especially read the posts on pressure signs as you will need to know them for load workup.

Once you have done this, you will be much more likely to create safe handloads that not only save money, but usually are more accurate than factory ammunition in your gun.

As you go you will have questions which can be answered here. Ask often and soon you will be a safe, informed handloader.

math teacher · July 4, 2012, 04:41 PM

I just left this message on another thread, but it applies here. Sizing down cases often results in thickening of the neck which may cause chambering problems as well as increase pressure. The necks may need to be reamed. This is advance reloading. As advised earlier, you are better off buying some 243 brass.

Throckmorton · July 7, 2012, 01:13 AM

are u sizing the cases and THEN measuring and trimming if required.?almost all bottle necked rifle cases need trimming after sizing,it's part of the rifle ammo process when reloading. If u use a long case,the brass can hang up ,causing hard bolt closure,as can too long a cartridge soetimes.

July 3, 2012, 09:13 PM	#1
iammykel Junior Member Join Date: July 3, 2012 Posts: 1	just started reloading, and i need help. i recently purchased my own relaoding gear. sick of paying 2 bucks a bullet. well i useto have a friend do it but i wanted to do it myself. any way the loads were 100g speer bt bullets with 36 g imr 4350 and a cci primer. what kind of a difference will i see switching to the 36g imr 4895 with a remington primer. i still want to shoot the 100g bullets but i have a box of 75s that came with the equipment. and i am noticing some of my rounds are difficult to chamber, they go in but not as easily as a factory round. the brass i am using is for a 308 or 7mm 08 sized down for my 243. any help would be appreachated so i dont do something stupid and blow my self up. lol thanks

July 4, 2012, 10:10 AM	#6
elrotundamundo Member Join Date: August 14, 2011 Location: North Idaho Posts: 56	Get a manual I suggest you postpone reloading a few days and spend the time learning about the science and art of reloading. First, get a reloading manual and read all the pages on cases, primers, powders, bullets and how they interrelate. The difference between the best load in any given caliber and a dangerous one can be small and the substitution of any one component might make the difference. Although it can seem overly complex, most of the work has been done for us already by the manual developers to give us a safe starting point for loads. After choosing which caliber, case, primer, powder and bullet we want to use, it is as simple as beginning with the safe starting load in the manual and working up. At this point, the only variable becomes the powder, which is increased in small increments, watching for pressure signs. Any substitution of the other components requires starting over from the manual's starting load for the new combination. Next, spend a day or two going through this forum and reading any topic that applies to your situation as well as general reloading topics. Go back through the older posts in the forum and you will soon get a feel for the guiding principles of reloading. This forum is an indispensable resource for that. Especially read the posts on pressure signs as you will need to know them for load workup. Once you have done this, you will be much more likely to create safe handloads that not only save money, but usually are more accurate than factory ammunition in your gun. As you go you will have questions which can be answered here. Ask often and soon you will be a safe, informed handloader.

July 3, 2012, 09:29 PM	#2
chris in va Senior Member Join Date: December 26, 2004 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 13,806	What dies are you using, and what reloading data are you using? Do you have a reloading manual?

July 3, 2012, 09:52 PM	#3
Brian Pfleuger Moderator Emeritus Join Date: June 25, 2008 Location: Austin, CO Posts: 19,578	Follow the load data from published, industry sources. You won't do anything stupid and blow yourself up if you start at the suggested loads and work up toward max while looking for pressure signs described in your manual. I'd also suggest that you buy 243 brass. It is not rare or expensive.

July 3, 2012, 10:36 PM	#4
Lost Sheep Senior Member Join Date: January 24, 2009 Location: Anchorage Alaska Posts: 3,341	I am just guessing (because there are so many possible causes), but the first thing I would look at would be the sizing or the neck crimping. Do you have a good set of calipers? Measure the diameter of the neck and compare to SAAMI specifications and to the diameter of a round that chambers easily. If the problem were not with the 75 grain bullets, I would suspect the bullet may be impinging on the rifling, but since the 75s will be shorter than the 100s, that is not a likely source of the problem. The length of the cartridge might be the problem (solution, case trimming). The position of the shoulder might be the problem (solution, adjust your full-length sizing die) If the foregoing has you scratching your head, (solution, get a couple of reloading manuals and study up). So, tell us something about yourself and what equipment you are using, your brand of dies, are you full-length sizing or neck-sizing and stuff like that. We can diagnose better the more we know. Thanks for asking our advice and welcome to reloading. Lost Sheep

July 4, 2012, 04:41 PM	#7
math teacher Senior Member Join Date: February 5, 2012 Location: Southwest WA Coast Posts: 559	I just left this message on another thread, but it applies here. Sizing down cases often results in thickening of the neck which may cause chambering problems as well as increase pressure. The necks may need to be reamed. This is advance reloading. As advised earlier, you are better off buying some 243 brass.

July 7, 2012, 01:13 AM	#8
Throckmorton Senior Member Join Date: May 22, 2004 Location: Washougal,Wa Posts: 126	are u sizing the cases and THEN measuring and trimming if required.?almost all bottle necked rifle cases need trimming after sizing,it's part of the rifle ammo process when reloading. If u use a long case,the brass can hang up ,causing hard bolt closure,as can too long a cartridge soetimes.