Anyone ever "open up" the port on a Ruger Mk series?

Lavan · May 22, 2016, 12:20 PM

Mine seldom jams but when it does, it's always a twofer in the receiver.
Like the fired case doesn't pop out right and the new round kinda goes half in the chamber with the fired case stuck over to the left side.

It jammed CONSISTENTLY with truncated bullets but with any rounding of the bullet nose, it runs great.

HOWEVER.... looking at the last cussfest, it APPEARED that tapering the inside edge of the TOP of the port and lowering the BOTTOM edge would create a lot more room for the commotion it needs. Followed by nice polish.

Being careful to keep the bolt fully contained and not go wild with the grinder.

Whatcha think?

Probly won't do it as it is so infrequent, but just musing a bit.

g.willikers · May 22, 2016, 12:36 PM

You might want to check some other stuff before messing with the ejection port.
Look at the extractor, magazine lips and action spring first.
Not to mention the ammo.
Light loads can do that, too.
As can the bullet shape you mentioned.
Sounds like just avoiding those would be the easiest solution.
"Hey Doc, it really hurts when I do this..."
"Well, sonny, don't do that."

T. O'Heir · May 22, 2016, 12:44 PM

Jamming with truncated bullets is a feeding issue(likely that the ramp has sharp edges). Opening the ejection port won't fix feeding issues.
It's the same issue older 1911/1911A1 pistols have with SWC's. Fixed by extending the feed ramp up the sides of the back of the chamber. No idea if it'd work with an entry level .22 though.
Like g.willikers says, not using TC ammo will fix it for free and with no possible unwanted results.

rock185 · May 22, 2016, 02:02 PM

The ejection port is plenty big enough. The trouble lies elsewhere. I've had Ruger MK examples from the '60s, 80s and early 2000s. All functioned reliably with any and all ammo I used. I sure wouldn't grind on the ejection port. You'd be treating a symptom rather than the cause of the problem..........ymmv

jmstr · May 22, 2016, 02:10 PM

When i read this, i thought that there may be confusion in terms?

Did you mean 'chamber' instead of ejection port?

I can't see how opening up the ejection port would improve feeding of rounds.

Keep in mind the m16/ar15 has a similar size ejection port, with few issues.

Even an open top design, like colt woodsman, could have the ejection issues you describe.

Or did you mean chamber, and are concerned about loading?

Lavan · May 22, 2016, 03:39 PM

Nope. I meant port.
And it's sorta moot as it's only ONE incident out of LOTS of rounds SINCE CHANGING AMMO.

But the odd way it jammed was new.

Spent case to the left of the upcoming round.

I ...DO... suspect lite round but not extractor
And I do know the persnicketyness of ALL Rugers re: extractors.

Combo of stuff most likely.

Just a theoretical question as the lack of a lockback and the size of the port makes digging stuff out hard for big fingers.

I......LOVE.... Hi Standards and Woodsmans.

They are what .22 autos SHOULD be.

The slide comes back and there ain't NUTTIN to impede the empty on its journey out and away.

James K · May 22, 2016, 03:50 PM

The bolt can be locked back manually, to help in such a situation.

I see no reason you can't open up the ejection port if you want, but like the others I doubt that is the solution to the problem. It sounds more like the rounds being used were under powered so the empty cases are dropping before the ejector can hit them and tying up the gun. (Don't forget that in a blowback pistol, the extractor doesn't extract; the fired case pushes itself out of the chamber under pressure. The extractor serves only as a pivot point to throw the case in the right direction.)

Jim

Lavan · May 22, 2016, 06:31 PM

You're right. Forgot about the lock.

Takes 3 hands but still.....

johnwilliamson062 · May 22, 2016, 06:55 PM

Quote:

persnicketyness of ALL Rugers re: extractors.

Hmmm... Have not had any problems myself. I'd say both my MK II and 10/22(with stock barrel not the target chambered one that seems to muck up all reliability) are the easiest to please of my many 22lrs.
Does your ammo come in buckets?

mete · May 22, 2016, 07:30 PM

While it's very easy to design and make a truncated bullet there are problems with feeding it !!! I solved the problem by no longer using them.

As the cartridge comes out of the magazine it must curve up and in but that curve is interupted when the side of the truncated part hits the underpart of the chamber that that curving movement is interupted and the cartridge goes in at an angle and jamming ! That might be easier to draw than describe !
You have lots of choice for bullets and cartridges pick what your GUN likes .Just ask it !!

pete2 · May 22, 2016, 07:43 PM

The key to shooting any semi auto is finding good, reliable ammo that the gun likes. Most will work fine with good ammo, good magazines and if kept reasonably clean. You don't need to redesign the gun. Keep it simple if you can.

Onward Allusion · May 22, 2016, 08:09 PM

Don't muck with the port/receiver. The problem lies with either ejector, extractor, mag, or recoil spring. Once you find ammo that works consistently with the MK, stick to it.

springer99 · May 23, 2016, 07:04 AM

I had a Mk III bull barrel that would FTE the fired round every so often, Jamming on the leftside of the receiver, that calling for an alibi during a match was a pain in the a@@. In my case, it was the loaded round indicator that was the issue. Dirt build up, etc. I just removed the darn thing and never looked back. Hasn't failed since and that over a year ago.

mannyCA · May 23, 2016, 07:26 AM

Definitely try swapping out that ejection spring before commencing with the grinding, may save you some headache later.

bull bob · May 23, 2016, 07:51 AM

If it is a MkIII could it possibly be the loaded chamber indicator?

redlightrich · May 23, 2016, 08:44 AM

Hello. I agree with most here. DO NOT open the ejection port. It was designed that way for a reason.

My MkIII will eat all 1200 fps and faster ammo with a round profile. Hollow points/flat tip are a no go. They do to me as they do to you. Many FTEs with those shape bullet. The gun gets more reliable after a brick or so runs thru it.

Read up on MkIII Mag tuning. A few minutes with some sandpaper goes a long way here.

Also, the Loaded Chamber Indicator, which to me is absolutely worthless ( maybe you can glean some comfort with a device that tells whether or not there is a cartridge in the chamber) but it's placement offers me zero value. If you rely on this, then keep it clean with a tiny paintbrush. If not, there is a replacement filler that removes some pressure on the system.

A well tuned Ruger Mk series pistol ( yes that includes MKIII) is a robust reliable firearm.

Please don't grind the port.

Rich

ammo.crafter · May 23, 2016, 09:04 AM

As others have mentioned, it is most likely the LRI.
Open the bolt and lock it in that position.Take a live round and drop it into the chamber.
Did it slip right in or not fully?
If your rounds do not freely drop in the chamber by hand it's the LRI.

I just happen to be changing one this afternoon.

Check out tendemkross.com for a quality replacement that does not impact on the rounds being chambered.

rt11002003 · May 23, 2016, 09:13 AM

Having that hangup, with an empty, is rare for me. I use my trigger finger to pull the bolt back, use the other hand to set the manual lock. Then, remove the mag and the hungup round falls out.

That is a beautiful photo Lavon.

osbornk · May 23, 2016, 09:53 AM

I had a similar problem with mine. I upgraded the extractor and the problem went away. Best $10 (+-) I have spent on a gun.

railroader · May 23, 2016, 10:25 AM

You can always upgrade your extractor. It can't hurt. I have one in my 10/22 target rifle and it works great.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/363...mark-iii-22-45

James K · May 24, 2016, 09:46 PM

Just a bit of absolutely useless knowledge. When Ruger makes those guns, they thread one end of a piece of heavy seamless tubular steel, then screw in the barrel with all the machining complete. Then they use an internal rod with a slot for the feed ramp to hold the assembly in place while they machine the ejection port, magazine hole, holes for the ejector, hammer and bolt stop, and cuts for the bolt ears. That is why Ruger considers the barrel and receiver (the tube) as a unit and won't normally sell barrels separately.

Jim

g.willikers · May 25, 2016, 09:10 AM

Suppose there are videos on how they do that?

James K · May 26, 2016, 12:13 PM

I have never seen any; their shop foreman described the process to me.

Jim

gyvel · May 27, 2016, 01:19 AM

This could be a possibility: Your recoil spring assy. might be needing to be replaced. This is another part that's relatively cheap. Not saying this is the problem, but it could be.

redlightrich · May 27, 2016, 08:02 AM

Hello James K. Thank you for sharing that info. I wondered how they did this and why. Makes absolute perfect sense. I cant help but now wonder, how does the aftermarket accurately attach new barrels when they build race dragons from Mk series pistols?

Anyway, thank you for the information, I am sorry I veered of course of the original topic.....carry on......

May 22, 2016, 12:20 PM	#1
Lavan Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 1999 Location: California Posts: 2,716	Anyone ever "open up" the port on a Ruger Mk series? Mine seldom jams but when it does, it's always a twofer in the receiver. Like the fired case doesn't pop out right and the new round kinda goes half in the chamber with the fired case stuck over to the left side. It jammed CONSISTENTLY with truncated bullets but with any rounding of the bullet nose, it runs great. HOWEVER.... looking at the last cussfest, it APPEARED that tapering the inside edge of the TOP of the port and lowering the BOTTOM edge would create a lot more room for the commotion it needs. Followed by nice polish. Being careful to keep the bolt fully contained and not go wild with the grinder. Whatcha think? Probly won't do it as it is so infrequent, but just musing a bit.

May 22, 2016, 12:36 PM	#2
g.willikers Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 10,442	You might want to check some other stuff before messing with the ejection port. Look at the extractor, magazine lips and action spring first. Not to mention the ammo. Light loads can do that, too. As can the bullet shape you mentioned. Sounds like just avoiding those would be the easiest solution. "Hey Doc, it really hurts when I do this..." "Well, sonny, don't do that." __________________ Walt Kelly, alias Pogo, sez: “Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent.”

May 22, 2016, 12:44 PM	#3
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	Jamming with truncated bullets is a feeding issue(likely that the ramp has sharp edges). Opening the ejection port won't fix feeding issues. It's the same issue older 1911/1911A1 pistols have with SWC's. Fixed by extending the feed ramp up the sides of the back of the chamber. No idea if it'd work with an entry level .22 though. Like g.willikers says, not using TC ammo will fix it for free and with no possible unwanted results. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

May 22, 2016, 02:02 PM	#4
rock185 Senior Member Join Date: September 2, 2001 Location: Out West in Rim Country Posts: 1,093	The ejection port is plenty big enough. The trouble lies elsewhere. I've had Ruger MK examples from the '60s, 80s and early 2000s. All functioned reliably with any and all ammo I used. I sure wouldn't grind on the ejection port. You'd be treating a symptom rather than the cause of the problem..........ymmv __________________ COTEP 640, NRA Life

May 22, 2016, 07:30 PM	#10
mete Senior Member Join Date: June 14, 2004 Location: NY State Posts: 6,575	While it's very easy to design and make a truncated bullet there are problems with feeding it !!! I solved the problem by no longer using them. As the cartridge comes out of the magazine it must curve up and in but that curve is interupted when the side of the truncated part hits the underpart of the chamber that that curving movement is interupted and the cartridge goes in at an angle and jamming ! That might be easier to draw than describe ! You have lots of choice for bullets and cartridges pick what your GUN likes .Just ask it !! __________________ And Watson , bring your revolver !

May 22, 2016, 02:10 PM	#5
jmstr Senior Member Join Date: February 24, 2001 Location: San Joaquin Valley, CA Posts: 1,281	When i read this, i thought that there may be confusion in terms? Did you mean 'chamber' instead of ejection port? I can't see how opening up the ejection port would improve feeding of rounds. Keep in mind the m16/ar15 has a similar size ejection port, with few issues. Even an open top design, like colt woodsman, could have the ejection issues you describe. Or did you mean chamber, and are concerned about loading?

May 22, 2016, 03:39 PM	#6
Lavan Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 1999 Location: California Posts: 2,716	Nope. I meant port. And it's sorta moot as it's only ONE incident out of LOTS of rounds SINCE CHANGING AMMO. But the odd way it jammed was new. Spent case to the left of the upcoming round. I ...DO... suspect lite round but not extractor And I do know the persnicketyness of ALL Rugers re: extractors. Combo of stuff most likely. Just a theoretical question as the lack of a lockback and the size of the port makes digging stuff out hard for big fingers. I......LOVE.... Hi Standards and Woodsmans. They are what .22 autos SHOULD be. The slide comes back and there ain't NUTTIN to impede the empty on its journey out and away.

May 22, 2016, 03:50 PM	#7
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	The bolt can be locked back manually, to help in such a situation. I see no reason you can't open up the ejection port if you want, but like the others I doubt that is the solution to the problem. It sounds more like the rounds being used were under powered so the empty cases are dropping before the ejector can hit them and tying up the gun. (Don't forget that in a blowback pistol, the extractor doesn't extract; the fired case pushes itself out of the chamber under pressure. The extractor serves only as a pivot point to throw the case in the right direction.) Jim

May 22, 2016, 06:31 PM	#8
Lavan Senior Member Join Date: December 10, 1999 Location: California Posts: 2,716	You're right. Forgot about the lock. Takes 3 hands but still.....

May 22, 2016, 07:43 PM	#11
pete2 Senior Member Join Date: May 15, 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 2,566	The key to shooting any semi auto is finding good, reliable ammo that the gun likes. Most will work fine with good ammo, good magazines and if kept reasonably clean. You don't need to redesign the gun. Keep it simple if you can.

May 22, 2016, 08:09 PM	#12
Onward Allusion Senior Member Join Date: November 17, 2009 Location: Back in a Non-Free State Posts: 3,133	Don't muck with the port/receiver. The problem lies with either ejector, extractor, mag, or recoil spring. Once you find ammo that works consistently with the MK, stick to it. __________________ Simple as ABC . . . Always Be Carrying

May 23, 2016, 07:04 AM	#13
springer99 Senior Member Join Date: November 14, 2008 Posts: 355	I had a Mk III bull barrel that would FTE the fired round every so often, Jamming on the leftside of the receiver, that calling for an alibi during a match was a pain in the a@@. In my case, it was the loaded round indicator that was the issue. Dirt build up, etc. I just removed the darn thing and never looked back. Hasn't failed since and that over a year ago.

May 23, 2016, 07:26 AM	#14
mannyCA Senior Member Join Date: May 7, 2009 Location: the world Posts: 182	Definitely try swapping out that ejection spring before commencing with the grinding, may save you some headache later. __________________ https://www.youtube.com/user/mannyCA Shooting ▪Handloading▪Repair▪Maintenance▪Self-Reliance Gun Culture

May 23, 2016, 07:51 AM	#15
bull bob Senior Member Join Date: October 29, 2010 Location: Michigan Posts: 114	If it is a MkIII could it possibly be the loaded chamber indicator?

May 23, 2016, 08:44 AM	#16
redlightrich Senior Member Join Date: January 24, 2016 Posts: 323	Hello. I agree with most here. DO NOT open the ejection port. It was designed that way for a reason. My MkIII will eat all 1200 fps and faster ammo with a round profile. Hollow points/flat tip are a no go. They do to me as they do to you. Many FTEs with those shape bullet. The gun gets more reliable after a brick or so runs thru it. Read up on MkIII Mag tuning. A few minutes with some sandpaper goes a long way here. Also, the Loaded Chamber Indicator, which to me is absolutely worthless ( maybe you can glean some comfort with a device that tells whether or not there is a cartridge in the chamber) but it's placement offers me zero value. If you rely on this, then keep it clean with a tiny paintbrush. If not, there is a replacement filler that removes some pressure on the system. A well tuned Ruger Mk series pistol ( yes that includes MKIII) is a robust reliable firearm. Please don't grind the port. Rich

May 23, 2016, 09:04 AM	#17
ammo.crafter Senior Member Join Date: June 25, 2006 Location: The Keystone State Posts: 1,970	LRI As others have mentioned, it is most likely the LRI. Open the bolt and lock it in that position.Take a live round and drop it into the chamber. Did it slip right in or not fully? If your rounds do not freely drop in the chamber by hand it's the LRI. I just happen to be changing one this afternoon. Check out tendemkross.com for a quality replacement that does not impact on the rounds being chambered. __________________ "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading". --Thomas Jefferson

May 23, 2016, 09:13 AM	#18
rt11002003 Senior Member Join Date: June 25, 2014 Posts: 524	Having that hangup, with an empty, is rare for me. I use my trigger finger to pull the bolt back, use the other hand to set the manual lock. Then, remove the mag and the hungup round falls out. That is a beautiful photo Lavon.

May 23, 2016, 09:53 AM	#19
osbornk Senior Member Join Date: August 11, 2012 Location: Mountains of Appalachia Posts: 1,598	I had a similar problem with mine. I upgraded the extractor and the problem went away. Best $10 (+-) I have spent on a gun.

May 23, 2016, 10:25 AM	#20
railroader Senior Member Join Date: February 8, 2000 Location: Tucson Arizona Posts: 1,756	You can always upgrade your extractor. It can't hurt. I have one in my 10/22 target rifle and it works great. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/363...mark-iii-22-45

May 24, 2016, 09:46 PM	#21
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Just a bit of absolutely useless knowledge. When Ruger makes those guns, they thread one end of a piece of heavy seamless tubular steel, then screw in the barrel with all the machining complete. Then they use an internal rod with a slot for the feed ramp to hold the assembly in place while they machine the ejection port, magazine hole, holes for the ejector, hammer and bolt stop, and cuts for the bolt ears. That is why Ruger considers the barrel and receiver (the tube) as a unit and won't normally sell barrels separately. Jim

May 25, 2016, 09:10 AM	#22
g.willikers Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 10,442	Suppose there are videos on how they do that? __________________ Walt Kelly, alias Pogo, sez: “Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent.”

May 26, 2016, 12:13 PM	#23
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	I have never seen any; their shop foreman described the process to me. Jim

May 27, 2016, 01:19 AM	#24
gyvel Senior Member Join Date: August 30, 2009 Location: Northern AZ Posts: 7,172	This could be a possibility: Your recoil spring assy. might be needing to be replaced. This is another part that's relatively cheap. Not saying this is the problem, but it could be. __________________ As always, YMMV. __________________________________________ MIIAA SIFE

May 27, 2016, 08:02 AM	#25
redlightrich Senior Member Join Date: January 24, 2016 Posts: 323	Hello James K. Thank you for sharing that info. I wondered how they did this and why. Makes absolute perfect sense. I cant help but now wonder, how does the aftermarket accurately attach new barrels when they build race dragons from Mk series pistols? Anyway, thank you for the information, I am sorry I veered of course of the original topic.....carry on......