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March 24, 2015, 02:32 AM | #26 |
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Well, I will be shooting my Oryx OCW sets this Friday (weather allowing) and whilst there I will take the time to take some measurements from the different components of my reticle and from there work out a rudimentary ranging system.
I'm also going to dig out my Burris manual and parts to see what it says and what the turret sleeves show. I will say that my reticle is a constant source of puzzlement. By all accounts, based on what I've seen online, it should not exist!! I have no idea exactly which reticle it is!! May have to write to Burris and ask them and see if they have data available for what the different dimensions equate to at 100m.
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Last edited by Pond, James Pond; March 24, 2015 at 02:55 AM. |
March 24, 2015, 03:41 AM | #27 |
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I'm a bit of a knucklehead and not a habitual long-range shooter--but if it were me I would also be concerned about testing the ammo used to get a reliable ballistics table for the bullet's velocity and drop and use that as a starting point if I were really thinking about taking long shots. As the range got long enough to where the bullet's trajectory really starts to "rainbow" I wouldn't have enough confidence in duplex bracketing target size guesstimation and would probably need a good laser range finder. And I use Strelok a lot to help reduce the stress on what few functioning brain cells I have left.
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March 25, 2015, 09:05 AM | #28 |
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Right, well I have been in touch with Burris and their rep has been pretty helpful although neither of us is much the wiser.
First thing I have leanrt is that I appear to have an atypical scope!! It seems that my reticle is indeed a Plex and that is not usual for the XTR scope!! It is also not usual to have numerous turret sleeve options in the pack. This also means that none of the listed subtensions for Plex reticles in the Burris database can be matched to my rifle!! I have a unique, mongrel Burris!! Should I be happy about that? Dunno!! (Those sleeves actually seem to have nothing to do with MOA/MIL. My factory fitted ones are graduated 0-16 clockwise, whilst the spares are graduated 0-8 down both sides where the 8 and the 0 are at 180 degrees to one another: no idea what they are. No idea where a total of 16 possible graduations come in, either!! )
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When the right to effective self-defence is denied, that right to self-defence which remains is essentially symbolic. Freedom: Please enjoy responsibly.
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March 25, 2015, 10:19 AM | #29 |
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Sounds like an "immaculate conception" product--could be a collector's item. : )
As a rank amateur unprofessional shooter here is what I would do: 1) first off, do you want to really keep the scope or not? forget about the ranging system--are you happy with the glass itself, clarity,eye relief, field of vision etc? If not--move on to a different scope (or get Burris to exchange it). 2) If you do like the glass itself, then determine the inherent precision of the scope. Regardless of the reticle and turret markings, choose two or three cardinal distances (say 100 and 200 meters or yards) and using ammo of known consistent velocity and drop (meaning use the best you can, preferably chrono'ed). Shoot several groups at different elevations settings at each distance--all you are really trying to determine is whether or not the scope has a high degree of repeatable precision based on the shifts of POI. Depending on how "granular" the turret clicks are and how flat shooting the ammo is, you may need more than one click and/or move the distances between the comparison targets. 3) If the groups do in fact show repeated precision--then it's time to do the math to figure out what the ranging system and reticle really is. This is where I pull the bail and leave the method to the expert more experienced shooters who have already commented on this thread--but the main point being that if you have a known cartridge velocity and drop and two reference targets--it doesn't matter if the scope system is minute of star trek klingonese, you should be able to figure out what the real system of measurement is, the most important thing being is it repeatably precise. Then again--I could be totally wrong! : )
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"Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk! Last edited by stagpanther; March 25, 2015 at 10:31 AM. |
March 25, 2015, 11:56 AM | #30 |
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I have a calculator (In Excel) that I created that will convert:
Mil to MOA or Inch MOA to Mil or Inch Inch to Mil or MOA And will also tell you your true Reticle Subtension measurement value for either MIL or MOA on a SFP scope based on the magnification setting that gives you your true measurement (look at your owners manual, but most scopes are max magnification will give you a true 1 MOA or MIL) and the magnification setting you have the scope set to... Comes in handy for scopes that have MOA adjustments with a MIL reticle and for SFP scopes with either MIL or MOA reticle...
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March 25, 2015, 01:09 PM | #31 |
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That's cool precision--somewhere floating around on the forum somebody has a formula for calculating velocity based on drop to known target distance. Would be cool (maybe already exists?) to have a resources page where people can post their pages (and of course get credit).
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"Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk! |
March 25, 2015, 03:40 PM | #32 |
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I should say I am pleased with the scope. It performs well.
Looking back, stronger magnification would have been nicer, but I don't think I will be shooting massive distances anyway, despite what I'd like. I just don't get the chance. In every other respect I am happy, although I have next to no other experience of scopes beyond it, a Nikon Prostaff and a 1-4x Leupold.
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March 25, 2015, 05:46 PM | #33 |
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Pond, that sounds like your sleeves are the options for zero at point blank or 100 where you only dial one way for targets farther out and come back down to zero, or for a zero at longer range like 300 where you need to dial both ways depending on whether your aiming closer or farther away.
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March 26, 2015, 03:08 AM | #34 | |
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Quote:
Now, I just need to decide which of my loads I'm going to zero for and at which distance!
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When the right to effective self-defence is denied, that right to self-defence which remains is essentially symbolic. Freedom: Please enjoy responsibly.
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March 26, 2015, 11:50 AM | #35 |
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For target shooting, you should have a sight setting recorded in your notebook or taped to the stock for each range available. The tabulation should be for your most accurate load.
For hunting, I would zero on the "point blank range" system. Depending on the caliber and load, that will give you a killing shot at something 200-300 yards. For me, in a field position, no sighter shots, that is far enough. I know there are long range hunters using reticle features or rangefinders and ballistic charts, but I am not one of them. |
March 26, 2015, 01:42 PM | #36 | |
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Quote:
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"Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk! |
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March 26, 2015, 03:18 PM | #37 |
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My handgun shooting hasn't been satisfying since 1995. Much more difficult to offset age with high-grade equipment shooting handguns.
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I used to love being able to hit hard at 1000 yards. As I get older I find hitting a mini ram at 200 yards with the 22 oddly more satisfying. |
March 26, 2015, 03:59 PM | #38 |
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I hear ya--I'm getting up there and am playing the dance of switching around eye glasses and after-market sights.
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"Everyone speaks gun."--Robert O'Neill I am NOT an expert--I do not have any formal experience or certification in firearms use or testing; use any information I post at your own risk! |
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