S & W 686 six or seven shot?

davem · June 15, 2015, 12:14 PM

The 686 can be had with two different cylinders, a six round and a seven round. The additional hole for the seven round ought to make the gun a little lighter weight and you get another round. My issues 1. is the lock work and performance on the seven round as good as the six round? 2. Do the notches on the seven round line up with the chambers differently and are they in a stronger or weaker position?
3. For those that have owned and shot both- which did you prefer?

BillDish · June 15, 2015, 12:37 PM

I have the 4" that holds 6 and the 3" that holds 7. If I were to carry a revolver I would want the 7 cartridge capacity. Cylinder doesnt travel very much on the 7 round. cant tell weight diffrence because of barrel lenghts diffrence. I just like the 7 round capacity.

NoSecondBest · June 15, 2015, 12:53 PM

I have one seven and two six rounders. I can't tell the difference in any way other than I get an extra shot out of the seven. Weight? Once you put seven shells in there, you won't be able to tell unless you put it on a very good scale. Both shoot equally well....which is very well. They rival both my Bill Davis revolvers. Rival, not equal, but close.

T. O'Heir · June 15, 2015, 01:46 PM

Seven rounder 4" weighs 42.3 oz. Six shot 42 oz. You won't notice 3/10 ounce difference. You will notice having to screw around with a key.

Wendyj · June 15, 2015, 02:34 PM

I unlocked mine in 3 inch and threw key away. Ugly to look at keyhole but I'll never use it again. Had 4 inch and done same thing. I like feel of the 686+ better than the 6 shot.

AZAK · June 15, 2015, 02:59 PM

Either way a box of 50 is not evenly divisible by 6 or 7.

So, get either. Or in my book get a pre-lock 686, then you don't have a dilemma and you have a better revolver.

And if you can find a good condition CS-1 better yet!

g.willikers · June 15, 2015, 03:03 PM

If the internal lock is not wanted, due to some reports of the lock causing gun failure, it might be best to remove the internal parts.
Here's how:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM

MrBorland · June 15, 2015, 03:26 PM

I vote for the 6-shot. Better speedloader options, and when I want a revolver with more than a 6-shot capacity, I go right to the 8-shot M627.

I can't tell the difference in action quality between the 6- and 7-shot.

Realistically, strength is a non-issue - if it's genuinely too hot for the 6-shot cylinder, it shouldn't be shot in the 7-shot cylinder, either.

dgludwig · June 15, 2015, 05:49 PM

Quote: So, get either. Or in my book get a pre-lock 686, then you don't have a dilemma and you have a better revolver.

You can get a pre-lock 686 Plus. I like having the extra round on board and have never found a difference in the trigger pulls between the Models 686 and 686 Plus. You can have your cake and eat it too!

AZAK · June 15, 2015, 06:20 PM

True.
I guess that I am a purist in this regard. And I prefer the CS-1 in the 686.

I figure that in a revolver, with a more powerful chambering/not .22lr etc..., that additional holes aren't that necessary. (Again, to me.) My .22lr and mag revolvers are all six.

And my speed loaders are all for six in .357!

Sevens · June 15, 2015, 06:34 PM

The pre-lock 686+ with 7-shots is NOT commonly found in my experience so your cake AND eating it is possible but your chase to find one won't be a simple one and you may well pay a premium for it.

If I'm choosing, I simply prefer the 6 shots. I suppose I kind of prefer tradition or "normal." It doesn't seem like just a plus-1 is a good trade off for the things I don't care for: odd looks due to more cylinder flutes, non-traditional and less good old steel between the chambers. NOT saying it is unsafe -- just prefer beefy steel to what looks "off" with a 7-shot.

Of course, my actual needs for an L-frame .357 are simple: pride of ownership and range day fun. I could see more value in an added 7th shot if it was a woods companion, service or defense or carry, sidearm to work a ranch, critter defense or other roles I have forgotten.

CajunBass · June 16, 2015, 04:04 AM

I used to have a seven shot Taurus 66. Except for an extra shot, I don't remember any real difference. I bought the gun used and didn't even notice it had the extra chamber until I had it out shooting it. It was neat for about ten minutes, then it was just a gimmick.

Quote:

Either way a box of 50 is not evenly divisible by 6 or 7.

Which is real reason I didn't really care for seven rounds. At the range I only load five anyway. Keeps the numbers right. Having an empty chamber under the hammer at the range doesn't bug me, but having two...well that bugged me.

davem · June 16, 2015, 09:02 AM

I've been looked at used revolvers mostly. Please explain the pre-lock and lock differences- I'm unaware of this matter. Thanks.

Technosavant · June 16, 2015, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Please explain the pre-lock and lock differences- I'm unaware of this matter.

S&W started using an internal lock in their guns at some point (I forget exactly when, I think it was sometime in the 90s). The internal lock is noticeable by the hole for the key next to the cylinder release on the left side of the gun.

Some have complained about inadvertent lock engagements; it seems that (from what I have read) it is primarily limited to extremely lightweight models shooting heavy loads (like the J frame 360 firing full house magnums), but it has happened (albeit much more rare) on other models. It is possible to remove/disable the lock... the advisability of this is under debate. Personally, I have not removed it from any of my S&Ws on which it is installed. I have never once had an issue with it. I would, however, recommend not throwing away the keys to the lock if you have one- I keep one on my keychain just in case... even though I almost never carry my S&W wheelguns anymore.

pete2 · June 16, 2015, 09:52 AM

I can feel the difference in the actions between the 6 and 7 shot guns. I have a 586 and a 686 Plus. The 6 shot fells better, there is a little hitch in the 7 shot that the 6 shot doesn't have. This isn't that important on a S/D gun, but for a range/match gun I'll take the 6 shot.

1911_Hardball · June 16, 2015, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Seven rounder 4" weighs 42.3 oz. Six shot 42 oz. You won't notice 3/10 ounce difference. You will notice having to screw around with a key.

Actually, according to S&W, the seven round version is lighter. That would make sense as a piece of steel with seven holes drilled in it is bound to weigh less than the same one with only six.

6 Round 39.7

7 Round 38.9

Nick_C_S · June 16, 2015, 09:20 PM

I have two 6's, and a 7.

The two 6-shooters have smoother triggers, but probably not because they are 6-shooters. It's probably because they're from 1984, and 1986. Smith just made a better product back then.

Don't get my wrong. I like my 7-shot. It's a 2013 model and has a 3" bbl. It's also on my carry permit (must specify the weapon to carry in Ca). The trigger is a little gritty, but it's still plenty smooth for me. I carry it with a great deal of confidence. I also shoot steel challenge with it. It's a good piece.

dyl · June 16, 2015, 10:24 PM

I take "the lock work" as a question about the inner workings, not the internal lock system (as in lock and key)

Your question is whether the fitting of the parts or fit and finish of the gun will differ. The least amount of hand fitting goes into normal production guns. The most goes into their Performance center guns which are much more expensive.

A production 686 will likely have some cast metal parts which will fit right into the gun with acceptable tolerances. Folks can correct me if I'm wrong but the only parts that really need to differ between a. 6 vs 7 shot revolver would be the hand, star, cylinder... Maybe the trigger itself. The more parts are kept the same the more profitable it is to produce. That's good news to you. There will be no factory trigger job from the get go so part of the fun is watching the action get smoother the more you shoot.

I have never had a S&W internal lock engage on me when firing. I've read of a single case of this happening But that's all.

I wouldn't worry about strength of the cylinder, it is made for a steady diet of magnums. As long as you don't hand load above SAAMI specs (load hotter than factory magnum rounds). A mistake when hand loading could blow the cylinder of any production revolver.

I would say that the "better" guns with more hand fitting are still available at the equivalent price that they used to be (considering inflation), just now we have a choice for more affordable options. A revolver can always be sent back to the factory for upgrades/trigger jobs/fitted parts.

MrBorland · June 17, 2015, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dyl

The most goes into their Performance center guns which are much more expensive.

It used to be that way, but based on the PC guns I've seen recently, I'd say they're no more tuned that guns in their standard line. When you buy a PC gun nowadays, you're simply getting a configuration not available in that standard line.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dyl

I would say that the "better" guns with more hand fitting are still available

Functionally, newer guns aren't "worse" because they receive less hand fitting. Modern CNC & MIM technology make parts that need less fitting in the first place. Functionally, what matters is that part fit - how they get there is less important, and IME, though they lack the fit and finish, newer guns function as well as older guns.

Frankly · June 18, 2015, 02:58 PM

My wife's is the 686 plus (7 shot). She shoots mostly 38 special -- because it's an L-frame, not because of the extra hole in the wheel... No regrets at any rate. It's a fun revolver to shoot and one of the most accurate in our stable.

Frankly · June 18, 2015, 03:08 PM

Quote:

I have never had a S&W internal lock engage on me when firing. I've read of a single case of this happening But that's all.

This is another one of those urban myths that has taken on an air of credibility just because so many people keep repeating it. I don't think S&W has ever confirmed a single case of it happening. If you look at how the internal lock is engineered, it would be about as likely to happen as water running uphill. But makes for good scare tactic among folks who can't get over the politics behind the lock... I have a few revolvers new enough to have the lock, and I feel just as confident in them as any of my vintage ones. Of course the vintage wheel guns are so much sexier...

buck460XVR · June 18, 2015, 04:15 PM

Quote:

So, get either. Or in my book get a pre-lock 686, then you don't have a dilemma and you have a better revolver.

....and that will get you a gun from the Bangor Punta era, considered by many to be the worst of quality. Some folks have short memories.

If one is going to have the gun long time and shoot it a lot, they should get a new one with the lifetime warranty and they will never have to worry.

AZAK · June 18, 2015, 04:35 PM

Quote:

....and that will get you a gun from the Bangor Punta era, considered by many to be the worst of quality. Some folks have short memories.

And there are no pre-BP era 686s.
I have a 686 CS-1 that is a piece of art, in form and function from the BP era.
I would stack it up against any 686 made since.

My memory is fine, and just how many BP era revolvers have you personally seen/held that were in fact "sub-par"? And how many from that era that were copasetic concerning quality? How many current iterations of the 686 go back to S&W today for warranty work? I am confident that that number is greater than zero.

No such thing as ALL perfect for the total production numbers from any "era".

I think that we would all agree that there are some advances in production that we enjoy and celebrate, and also some "advances" that we would have rather not seen happen.

You pays your money and you take your chances.

Sevens · June 18, 2015, 04:42 PM

Lol, Bamgor Punta certainly...
But have you completely forgotten all the S&W revolvers between BP-era and ~2000 when the ILS arrived? The Lear-Siegler and Tompkins guns?

Lots of different S&W revolvers attract some folks for their own reasons. I've currently got S&W revolvers that I totally love from the early 1920's, mid-50's, mid-70's and as late as 1994. But a couple of my favorites are from '88 and '89. None have the lock. And the one single L-frame I have is pre-lock and very much long after Bangor Punta.

I believe that both my 19 & 28 are Bangor Punta era. And they are fantastic.

buck460XVR · June 18, 2015, 05:13 PM

Quote:

No such thing as ALL perfect for the total production numbers from any "era".

That was the point of my post. Folks snibble about current quality and then twenty years later it's the best thing since sliced bread. Look at Colt D.A. Revolvers. Folks thought at the time they weren't worth the price, so Colt discontinued them.... now folks pay a premium for the same gun and claim their worth every penny.

I have 686s from the BP era, post BP and as late as last year. All are fine weapons and all are accurate and reliable. The Hillary hole does not bother me, nor does the lock itself. I see little or no difference in the appearance or the accuracy between them, but if I was looking for another, since used 686s sell used for more than they sold for originally and almost as much as a new gun, I'd probably go for a new one with a lifetime warranty. just sayin'.

June 15, 2015, 12:14 PM	#1
davem Junior member Join Date: October 4, 2004 Posts: 458	S & W 686 six or seven shot? The 686 can be had with two different cylinders, a six round and a seven round. The additional hole for the seven round ought to make the gun a little lighter weight and you get another round. My issues 1. is the lock work and performance on the seven round as good as the six round? 2. Do the notches on the seven round line up with the chambers differently and are they in a stronger or weaker position? 3. For those that have owned and shot both- which did you prefer?

June 15, 2015, 12:37 PM	#2
BillDish Member Join Date: December 15, 2009 Location: Northwest Indiana Posts: 35	S&W 686 I have the 4" that holds 6 and the 3" that holds 7. If I were to carry a revolver I would want the 7 cartridge capacity. Cylinder doesnt travel very much on the 7 round. cant tell weight diffrence because of barrel lenghts diffrence. I just like the 7 round capacity. __________________ Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote! -Ben Franklin

June 15, 2015, 01:46 PM	#4
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	Seven rounder 4" weighs 42.3 oz. Six shot 42 oz. You won't notice 3/10 ounce difference. You will notice having to screw around with a key. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

June 15, 2015, 02:34 PM	#5
Wendyj Senior Member Join Date: April 3, 2015 Location: North Georgia Posts: 1,372	I unlocked mine in 3 inch and threw key away. Ugly to look at keyhole but I'll never use it again. Had 4 inch and done same thing. I like feel of the 686+ better than the 6 shot. __________________ God is NOT dead!!!!

June 15, 2015, 02:59 PM	#6
AZAK Senior Member Join Date: May 15, 2008 Location: the object towards which the action of the sea is directed Posts: 2,123	Either way a box of 50 is not evenly divisible by 6 or 7. So, get either. Or in my book get a pre-lock 686, then you don't have a dilemma and you have a better revolver. And if you can find a good condition CS-1 better yet! __________________ The lowest paid college major/degree in this country after graduation... Elementary Education. Now, go figure...

June 15, 2015, 12:53 PM	#3
NoSecondBest Senior Member Join Date: December 7, 2009 Location: Western New York Posts: 2,736	I have one seven and two six rounders. I can't tell the difference in any way other than I get an extra shot out of the seven. Weight? Once you put seven shells in there, you won't be able to tell unless you put it on a very good scale. Both shoot equally well....which is very well. They rival both my Bill Davis revolvers. Rival, not equal, but close.

June 15, 2015, 03:03 PM	#7
g.willikers Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2008 Posts: 10,442	If the internal lock is not wanted, due to some reports of the lock causing gun failure, it might be best to remove the internal parts. Here's how: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVPYgohVCNM __________________ Walt Kelly, alias Pogo, sez: “Don't take life so serious, son, it ain't nohow permanent.”

June 15, 2015, 03:26 PM	#8
MrBorland Senior Member Join Date: May 31, 2007 Location: NC Posts: 2,614	I vote for the 6-shot. Better speedloader options, and when I want a revolver with more than a 6-shot capacity, I go right to the 8-shot M627. I can't tell the difference in action quality between the 6- and 7-shot. Realistically, strength is a non-issue - if it's genuinely too hot for the 6-shot cylinder, it shouldn't be shot in the 7-shot cylinder, either.

June 15, 2015, 05:49 PM	#9
dgludwig Senior Member Join Date: February 12, 2005 Location: North central Ohio Posts: 7,486	Quote: So, get either. Or in my book get a pre-lock 686, then you don't have a dilemma and you have a better revolver. You can get a pre-lock 686 Plus. I like having the extra round on board and have never found a difference in the trigger pulls between the Models 686 and 686 Plus. You can have your cake and eat it too! __________________ ONLY AN ARMED PEOPLE CAN BE TRULY FREE ; ONLY AN UNARMED PEOPLE CAN EVER BE ENSLAVED ...Aristotle NRA Benefactor Life Member

June 15, 2015, 06:20 PM	#10
AZAK Senior Member Join Date: May 15, 2008 Location: the object towards which the action of the sea is directed Posts: 2,123	True. I guess that I am a purist in this regard. And I prefer the CS-1 in the 686. I figure that in a revolver, with a more powerful chambering/not .22lr etc..., that additional holes aren't that necessary. (Again, to me.) My .22lr and mag revolvers are all six. And my speed loaders are all for six in .357! __________________ The lowest paid college major/degree in this country after graduation... Elementary Education. Now, go figure...

June 15, 2015, 06:34 PM	#11
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,756	The pre-lock 686+ with 7-shots is NOT commonly found in my experience so your cake AND eating it is possible but your chase to find one won't be a simple one and you may well pay a premium for it. If I'm choosing, I simply prefer the 6 shots. I suppose I kind of prefer tradition or "normal." It doesn't seem like just a plus-1 is a good trade off for the things I don't care for: odd looks due to more cylinder flutes, non-traditional and less good old steel between the chambers. NOT saying it is unsafe -- just prefer beefy steel to what looks "off" with a 7-shot. Of course, my actual needs for an L-frame .357 are simple: pride of ownership and range day fun. I could see more value in an added 7th shot if it was a woods companion, service or defense or carry, sidearm to work a ranch, critter defense or other roles I have forgotten. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.

June 16, 2015, 09:02 AM	#13
davem Junior member Join Date: October 4, 2004 Posts: 458	I've been looked at used revolvers mostly. Please explain the pre-lock and lock differences- I'm unaware of this matter. Thanks.

June 16, 2015, 09:52 AM	#15
pete2 Senior Member Join Date: May 15, 2012 Location: Texas Posts: 2,566	I can feel the difference in the actions between the 6 and 7 shot guns. I have a 586 and a 686 Plus. The 6 shot fells better, there is a little hitch in the 7 shot that the 6 shot doesn't have. This isn't that important on a S/D gun, but for a range/match gun I'll take the 6 shot.

June 16, 2015, 09:20 PM	#17
Nick_C_S Senior Member Join Date: March 21, 2013 Location: Idaho Posts: 5,523	I have two 6's, and a 7. The two 6-shooters have smoother triggers, but probably not because they are 6-shooters. It's probably because they're from 1984, and 1986. Smith just made a better product back then. Don't get my wrong. I like my 7-shot. It's a 2013 model and has a 3" bbl. It's also on my carry permit (must specify the weapon to carry in Ca). The trigger is a little gritty, but it's still plenty smooth for me. I carry it with a great deal of confidence. I also shoot steel challenge with it. It's a good piece. __________________ Gun control laws benefit only criminals and politicians - but then, I repeat myself. Life Member, National Rifle Association

June 16, 2015, 10:24 PM	#18
dyl Senior Member Join Date: October 31, 2009 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,310	"The lock work" I take "the lock work" as a question about the inner workings, not the internal lock system (as in lock and key) Your question is whether the fitting of the parts or fit and finish of the gun will differ. The least amount of hand fitting goes into normal production guns. The most goes into their Performance center guns which are much more expensive. A production 686 will likely have some cast metal parts which will fit right into the gun with acceptable tolerances. Folks can correct me if I'm wrong but the only parts that really need to differ between a. 6 vs 7 shot revolver would be the hand, star, cylinder... Maybe the trigger itself. The more parts are kept the same the more profitable it is to produce. That's good news to you. There will be no factory trigger job from the get go so part of the fun is watching the action get smoother the more you shoot. I have never had a S&W internal lock engage on me when firing. I've read of a single case of this happening But that's all. I wouldn't worry about strength of the cylinder, it is made for a steady diet of magnums. As long as you don't hand load above SAAMI specs (load hotter than factory magnum rounds). A mistake when hand loading could blow the cylinder of any production revolver. I would say that the "better" guns with more hand fitting are still available at the equivalent price that they used to be (considering inflation), just now we have a choice for more affordable options. A revolver can always be sent back to the factory for upgrades/trigger jobs/fitted parts.

June 18, 2015, 02:58 PM	#20
Frankly Senior Member Join Date: February 6, 2015 Posts: 261	My wife's is the 686 plus (7 shot). She shoots mostly 38 special -- because it's an L-frame, not because of the extra hole in the wheel... No regrets at any rate. It's a fun revolver to shoot and one of the most accurate in our stable.

June 18, 2015, 04:42 PM	#24
Sevens Senior Member Join Date: July 28, 2007 Location: Ohio Posts: 11,756	Lol, Bamgor Punta certainly... But have you completely forgotten all the S&W revolvers between BP-era and ~2000 when the ILS arrived? The Lear-Siegler and Tompkins guns? Lots of different S&W revolvers attract some folks for their own reasons. I've currently got S&W revolvers that I totally love from the early 1920's, mid-50's, mid-70's and as late as 1994. But a couple of my favorites are from '88 and '89. None have the lock. And the one single L-frame I have is pre-lock and very much long after Bangor Punta. I believe that both my 19 & 28 are Bangor Punta era. And they are fantastic. __________________ *Attention Brass rats and other reloaders:* I really need .327 Federal Magnum brass, no lot size too small. Tell me what caliber you need and I'll see what I have to swap. PM me and we'll discuss.