what to look for in purchasing a k98 mauser

[rbf420]

in deciding not to buy a k98 through mitchells mausers i called around found some at a gunstore that i'll be checking out this weekend. in making the best purchase what things should i look for in these guns, im more interested in a good shooter than a collectible, obviously markings are preffered still... how do you check for blueing, etc?

[PetahW]

[what things should i look for in these guns, im more interested in a good shooter than a collectible, obviously markings are preffered still... how do you check for blueing, etc? ]

Good bluing does not a "shooter" make............

Check that the bolt SN matches the receiver (many do not) - if not, headspace needs to be checked for safety's sake. (ask the shop if they would guarantee the headspace, in writing, should you buy "it")

Check the bore - many look like sewer pipes, but can clean up fairly good; many can't clean up well at all - it may still "shoot", if the crown/rifling's good.

Check that the stock is intact & uncracked, everywhere.

THEN check for your druthers.

.

[ww2freak27]

I wouldn't get a Mitchel's mauser. They completely destroy the history of the gun. You could probably tell by my name that I would be against Mitchel's but they completely redo the gun. I prefer to have the original finish, blueing, and dings. I also hear that Mitchel's mausers also force matches parts to the gun. If it were my choice, I would rather spend $300-$400 for an original mauser than a lot more for something that shoots just as well and has the history removed. I just can't see why anyone would deface such a historic rifle

[ww2freak27]

I do hope you have great luck in finding an original mauser They are great fun. Sorry about the double post. I just had to express my anger at Mitchel's mausers

[James K]

Most of the K.98k's on the market today are Russian capture, now being sold off. They give the stocks a rough sanding, give the metal a quick dip blue/black, replace any bad parts, and ship them. The collector interest is limited, since most collectors want rifles as close to original as possible. RC guns usually have a Russian property mark that is supposed to be crossed M-N rifles, but usually looks like an "X".

One approach is to look around at gun and pawn shops for bringbacks. One of the results of the tragic dying of our WWII vets is that the rifles they brought back are turning up in local stores.

The best advice I can give is that if there are gun shows in your area, look at as many rifles as you can. Most dealers are honest and will tell you if the gun is a RC, or a bringback. Look for good bluing (not matte black) and for normal wear. Bolts should be blued, not bright. Stocks may be either solid wood or laminate, but should show the use, not abuse or excessive sanding.

Jim

[rbf420]

How do i look for blueing? kinda new to that area of guns and what not

[TX Hunter]

Original Worn out looking bluing, if the bluing looks new it probably is.

[Myke_Hart]

I will have to say that the gunshow dealers are not being truthful that guns are a RC. Some are flat out lieing, Some just may not know.

Just had a gun show a few weeks ago and non matching RC mausers were found for $450 up to $750 and $1000 to $3250 for a all matching non import original mausers. A lot of dealers claimed all matching numbers on guns or non RC, but a quick glance showed otherwise or showed parts that where void of numbers completely (replacement parts). You need to do your homework to avoid getting duped.

In my opinion a matching number non import (bring back) mauser, whether it shoots or not, should not be treated as a shooter, the collector value of this rifle warrants a huge price and should be treated as a collectors item. It could fund your retirement one day.

I ended up searching local stores and purchased a 1944 Russian Capture with a good bore and fair stock (non matching/electro penciled force match serials and import marks), and stamps for $299. I had to go thru about 20 rifles before I could find an acceptable shooter. I have spent some money getting original parts to put back on the gun, (Site hood, Capture screws, 1940's Cleaning rod, 1939 strap,1943 bayonet, 1943 scabbard and 1942 frog). I believe after all is said and done I have about $700 invested. The stock is still in fair shape but does match the barrel serial number and looks like it might hold together, but even this could be force matched. Only time will tell.

It is looking like the quality of the left over RC imports have gone to the bottom of the rusty bucket and the availability of a decent rifle has all but dried up.

If you do buy one and want to modify it (sporterize it), Please (for the love of God) keep your original parts marked and stored near the gun. Even if you think you will never resell it. These guns have a ton of history and the value of them has gone thru the roof. Even original (non reproduction parts) are getting hard to find. There are a ton of folks selling repro parts as original.:barf: So it makes it tough to bring one back after being modified.

[Myke_Hart]

What to look for:

How to know a gun is a russian capture (RC):
X or two rifles in a X on the barrel or receiver
German Stamps may be peened out
New blueing, very dark black blueing
Missing sight hood.
Missing cleaning rod.
Missing capture screws in bottom trigger housing, Two of them.
Parts without stamped serial numbers, including electro pencil.
Mismatched or force matched serial numbers, numbers crossed out.

Imported gun:
Import marks on side of receiver, will state the importer.
Older imports may be on the barrel.
Electro penciled parts.
Mismatched or force matched serial numbers, numbers crossed out.

Original gun (bring back):
Will have NONE of the above markings
All parts will be stamped with numbers and not electro penciled.
Barely any blueing if any at all.
Stamps in tact.
Includes a sight hood, capture screws, and cleaning rod.

Am I forgetting any.

[olyinaz]

An all-matching rifle except the bolt is still a VERY desirable and collectible K98. Due to the havoc of war the rifles often got separated from their bolts before a GI would grab one to bring back home for a souvenir.

They're much less expensive than an all-matching rifle (good luck finding one of those for less than $1000) but still something you can and should be proud of.

A Russian-capture K98 would make a great choice for a shooter. They're still rich with history (after all, the victorious Russians were the ones who re-furbished the rifle in a military arsenal - NOT "Bubba") and if you can find one with an undamaged stock (no cracks or delamination) and Nazi eagles un-peened (still intact - swastikas clearly visible) and a good bore, you'll have a very nice shooter for not a lot of dough.

I suggest you look for a nice Russian capture for your first K98, learn a bit more about them, and decide if you want to spend the money for something nicer.

My first K98 was a Norwegian capture which is similar to the Russian story except they tend to keep them all matching and rebarrel them to .30-06 with some added Norwegian markings. GREAT shooter with a lot of history, but they're rare and expensive.

Cheers,
Oly