COLT vs Uberti pocket police

mravery · May 19, 2009, 08:21 AM

Hello All,

Newbie here so I apologise if this is too basic of a question....

I have a Uberti 1862 pocket navy (used) and just picked up a Colt 2nd Gen (serial 521xx)Pocket Police (used).

The finish on the Colt is much nicer than the Uberti but what I'm concerned about is the action on the Colt. The hammer pull is very stiff and feels like two pieces of sandpaper rubbing against each other. Also, about one in 10 hammer pulls the cylinder mis-aligns to the hammer.

Is this something that can be corrected or is it serious? The pistol was purchased with an as/is option.

Is this a normal issue with these guns and that it will just work it out after a while or?? The gun is very clean and does not appear to be abused in any way.

I thought that the quality of an 2nd Gen Colt would be superior to the Uberti.

Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated!

Cheers
Mark

madcratebuilder · May 19, 2009, 08:42 AM

Look at these two links, maybe you well want to clean up the action yourself.

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles...a_Part_One.pdf

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles...a_Part_Two.pdf

Fingers McGee · May 19, 2009, 10:57 AM

The 2nd Gens were shipped with grease in the innards and on the arbor. In the 25+ years since they were made, the grease hardens making the actions extremely hard to work. I got a '61 Navy that you could hardly cock. Once I stripped it down & cleaned all the gunk out of it (especially in the hand channel of the frame), it functioned smoothly and easily. Of course, while you're in there, you might as well smooth all the parts using Petifogger's instructions too.

FM

mrappe · May 19, 2009, 11:06 PM

If the indexing is off. It could be the ratchets on the cylinder or the pawl that moves them are worn.

mravery · May 20, 2009, 05:57 AM

Hi guys

Ok... here is the update.... I used the references above and pulled it apart, all the parts had a ton of 'gritty' gunk on them (oil, powder residue and misc crap). Even found the remains of a cap inside the grip when I took it apart.

I also noticed that the hammer just touches the side of the frame just before it makes contact with the nipple.

So, all back together and for the most part all went together smoothly (until I dropped the cylinder on the tile floor, but that's another story)

Everything seems smoother than before I cleaned it. I think most of the difference now is that the mainspring seems stronger on the COLT than the Uberti so it's harder to pull.

After 50+ pulls, only one mis-align of the cylinder.

The only other thing I noticed and not sure if it will require attention is that the grooves (sorry for the lack of proper terminology) that LOCK the cylinder into place are starting to get a little 'mashed' on one edge. The articles did mention it as it was caused from the lock being larger diameter than the groove. I checked it and it appears to be correct and not too large. Is this normal for these SA pistols and does it happen to all of them or does it require attention?

Many many thanks!
Mark

mrappe · May 20, 2009, 06:34 AM

The timing that causes the locking to take place is controled by the relationship of the cam on the hammer and the bolt and how the two work together with the rotation of the cylinder via the pawl hand and ratchet teeth on the cylinder. Due to wear or improper fitting these relationships can be out of synch. I found a web site that has some information. http://www.hobbygunsmith.com/Archive.../Interview.htm. Also, AGI has a good armorers video on the Colt SAA guns that would also apply to a Colt C&B action. They give you a lot of info on correcting and fitting parts to improve the timing.

madcratebuilder · May 20, 2009, 08:36 AM

I agree with mrappe. the peening of the cylinder stop slot and the failure to lock may be caused be a bolt dropping late. You can slightly bend the leg of the bolt stop that rides on the hammer cam away from the cam. That well cause the bolt to drop sooner. It does not take much, just a few thousandths.

Check for any burrs in the ratchet area on the back of the cylinder. Check the channel in the frame that the hand moves in for burrs.

May 19, 2009, 08:21 AM	#1
mravery Member Join Date: May 18, 2009 Posts: 42	COLT vs Uberti pocket police Hello All, Newbie here so I apologise if this is too basic of a question.... I have a Uberti 1862 pocket navy (used) and just picked up a Colt 2nd Gen (serial 521xx)Pocket Police (used). The finish on the Colt is much nicer than the Uberti but what I'm concerned about is the action on the Colt. The hammer pull is very stiff and feels like two pieces of sandpaper rubbing against each other. Also, about one in 10 hammer pulls the cylinder mis-aligns to the hammer. Is this something that can be corrected or is it serious? The pistol was purchased with an as/is option. Is this a normal issue with these guns and that it will just work it out after a while or?? The gun is very clean and does not appear to be abused in any way. I thought that the quality of an 2nd Gen Colt would be superior to the Uberti. Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated! Cheers Mark

May 19, 2009, 10:57 AM	#3
Fingers McGee Senior Member Join Date: March 19, 2008 Location: High & Dry in Missouri Ozarks Posts: 2,113	The 2nd Gens were shipped with grease in the innards and on the arbor. In the 25+ years since they were made, the grease hardens making the actions extremely hard to work. I got a '61 Navy that you could hardly cock. Once I stripped it down & cleaned all the gunk out of it (especially in the hand channel of the frame), it functioned smoothly and easily. Of course, while you're in there, you might as well smooth all the parts using Petifogger's instructions too. FM __________________ Fingers (Show Me MO smoke) McGee - AKA Man of Many Colts - Alter ego of Diabolical Ken; SASS Regulator 28564-L-TG; Rangemaster and stage writer extraordinaire; Frontiersman, Pistoleer, NRA Endowment Life, NMLRA, SAF, CCRKBA, STORM 327, SV115; Charter member, Central Ozarks Western Shooters Cynic: A blackguard whose faulty vision see things as they are, not as they should be. Ambrose Bierce

May 19, 2009, 08:42 AM	#2
madcratebuilder Senior Member Join Date: November 2, 2007 Location: Northern Orygun Posts: 4,923	Look at these two links, maybe you well want to clean up the action yourself. http://www.theopenrange.net/articles...a_Part_One.pdf http://www.theopenrange.net/articles...a_Part_Two.pdf

May 19, 2009, 11:06 PM	#4
mrappe Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 256	If the indexing is off. It could be the ratchets on the cylinder or the pawl that moves them are worn.

May 20, 2009, 05:57 AM	#5
mravery Member Join Date: May 18, 2009 Posts: 42	Hi guys Ok... here is the update.... I used the references above and pulled it apart, all the parts had a ton of 'gritty' gunk on them (oil, powder residue and misc crap). Even found the remains of a cap inside the grip when I took it apart. I also noticed that the hammer just touches the side of the frame just before it makes contact with the nipple. So, all back together and for the most part all went together smoothly (until I dropped the cylinder on the tile floor, but that's another story) Everything seems smoother than before I cleaned it. I think most of the difference now is that the mainspring seems stronger on the COLT than the Uberti so it's harder to pull. After 50+ pulls, only one mis-align of the cylinder. The only other thing I noticed and not sure if it will require attention is that the grooves (sorry for the lack of proper terminology) that LOCK the cylinder into place are starting to get a little 'mashed' on one edge. The articles did mention it as it was caused from the lock being larger diameter than the groove. I checked it and it appears to be correct and not too large. Is this normal for these SA pistols and does it happen to all of them or does it require attention? Many many thanks! Mark

May 20, 2009, 06:34 AM	#6
mrappe Senior Member Join Date: January 29, 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 256	The timing that causes the locking to take place is controled by the relationship of the cam on the hammer and the bolt and how the two work together with the rotation of the cylinder via the pawl hand and ratchet teeth on the cylinder. Due to wear or improper fitting these relationships can be out of synch. I found a web site that has some information. http://www.hobbygunsmith.com/Archive.../Interview.htm. Also, AGI has a good armorers video on the Colt SAA guns that would also apply to a Colt C&B action. They give you a lot of info on correcting and fitting parts to improve the timing.

May 20, 2009, 08:36 AM	#7
madcratebuilder Senior Member Join Date: November 2, 2007 Location: Northern Orygun Posts: 4,923	I agree with mrappe. the peening of the cylinder stop slot and the failure to lock may be caused be a bolt dropping late. You can slightly bend the leg of the bolt stop that rides on the hammer cam away from the cam. That well cause the bolt to drop sooner. It does not take much, just a few thousandths. Check for any burrs in the ratchet area on the back of the cylinder. Check the channel in the frame that the hand moves in for burrs.