CLP

9x18_Walther · September 2, 2015, 02:24 AM

After some discussion with others on this forum, I've decided on using a CLP to clean my guns.

The instructions on the bottle are a little unclear.

1. Apply to mechanisms and metal surfaces.
2. Allow a few minutes or more (even overnight) for penetration and cleaning action to occur.
3. With movement or brushing of the parts, foreign matter will break loose and can be wiped away.
4. Break-Free CLP lubricates immediately. For best results, allow to cure for 2 hours.

Does step four indicate that no additional lubrication is needed? I understand that some CLP is left behind when wiped dry, but I was thinking that the rails, locking lugs, etc. would need a drop or two.

Can someone clarify this?

Hunter2678 · September 2, 2015, 07:21 AM

FWIW, after Ive cleaned with CLP I'll wipe away all the excess oil & debris, then I'll go back and re-lube the pistol with it as I normally would.

9x18_Walther · September 2, 2015, 09:30 AM

Do you typically oil in the magwell on all steel pistols? I've asked a few people and some seem to leave the gun dry and only hit the lube points?

Somewhat worried about rust.

Doyle · September 2, 2015, 09:45 AM

I use CLP on all my firearms. However, instead of wiping away the excess I use an air hose to blow it dry. Leaves a very thin film of protection on all the metal surfaces.

Skans · September 2, 2015, 10:01 AM

I use CLP when shooting my small "pocket" 9mm's and used to use it when shooting an AMT 45 backup. I spray the chamber and wipe it out after several magazines. This really cuts down on malfunctions while shooting and it's easy to use.

JDBerg · September 2, 2015, 10:40 AM

I've gone through many of the CLP's and BreakFree has always worked fine on my polymer guns. But lately, and IMHO, the Mil-Comm system (MC25 cleaner/degreaser, MC2500 lubricant, and TW25B grease) works best across the board for all my guns. I think there is a benefit to using a separate cleaner and lube, rather than using CLP for everything. Just my $0.02 on the subject.

Doyle · September 2, 2015, 11:13 AM

I think it is important to make a distinction between needing to use a petroleum based lubricant (like CLP) as a metal protectant and needing to use a dedicated lubricant on moving parts. While CLP might indeed work on some moving parts, it is not an ideal lubricant for all moving parts.

9x18_Walther · September 2, 2015, 02:09 PM

Doyle,

That is somewhat of what I'm getting at. I've watched probably a hundred cleaning/lubrication videos and about half apply CLP and wipe it off with a cloth and call it a day and others follow up afterwards with a precision oiler, etc. to hit the rails and other moving parts.

It's just that I have always used a solvent to clean all of the fowled components and then just used a plain jane oil to lubrication just the moving parts.

It looks like most people oil every square inch of the gun. Am I doing it wrong?

Doyle · September 2, 2015, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Am I doing it wrong?

If you are cleaning the metal surfaces with something that leaves no protection behind, then you may be setting yourself up for rusting. That is why people like CLP, it cleans and leaves behind a nice layer of protection. It isn't that it is "better" (although I saw one extensive rust prevention test in which CLP came in 2nd place out of a decent list of contenders) - it's that it is very convenient. Having one chemical do 95% of the cleaning/lubing/protecting that your firearm needs is not a bad thing. If you want to use separate chemicals for each, then that's OK too.

9x18_Walther · September 2, 2015, 04:28 PM

If I'm in a hot, relatively dry climate would you suggest a dedicated anti-corrosive agent or just oil?

Doyle · September 2, 2015, 07:29 PM

This test might help you decide. I don't see the test as being absolutely scientific gospel fact, but it does show differences in some of the products available.

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

cc-hangfire · September 2, 2015, 09:21 PM

There is great variability in opinions on lubrication, & we each pick what works best for our guns and our maintenance methods. For me, Breakfree CLP is my primary handgun product. I wipe down all parts on modern polymer guns with tabs for rails and run them almost dry, but I use a little gun grease on my pistols with full rails (& a little grease on the hammer face that contacts the slide) after CLP & wipe down. I have a few that only run well a little wet - all steel, full rails, tighter tolerances.

CodeSection · September 3, 2015, 12:05 AM

I use Breakfree CLP as well...wipe off excess and allow to dry. Once dry, I use Brian Enos' Slide-Guide on the rails. It simply works and maintains its composition. Best stuff I have used.

Slide-glide comes in different viscosities depending upon your location and environment. You can check it out in the link below..

http://www.brianenos.com/store/slide-glide.html

Good luck!

September 2, 2015, 02:24 AM	#1
9x18_Walther Senior Member Join Date: June 2, 2015 Posts: 500	CLP After some discussion with others on this forum, I've decided on using a CLP to clean my guns. The instructions on the bottle are a little unclear. 1. Apply to mechanisms and metal surfaces. 2. Allow a few minutes or more (even overnight) for penetration and cleaning action to occur. 3. With movement or brushing of the parts, foreign matter will break loose and can be wiped away. 4. Break-Free CLP lubricates immediately. For best results, allow to cure for 2 hours. Does step four indicate that no additional lubrication is needed? I understand that some CLP is left behind when wiped dry, but I was thinking that the rails, locking lugs, etc. would need a drop or two. Can someone clarify this?

September 2, 2015, 10:40 AM	#6
JDBerg Senior Member Join Date: May 18, 2015 Location: PA Posts: 1,835	I've gone through many of the CLP's and BreakFree has always worked fine on my polymer guns. But lately, and IMHO, the Mil-Comm system (MC25 cleaner/degreaser, MC2500 lubricant, and TW25B grease) works best across the board for all my guns. I think there is a benefit to using a separate cleaner and lube, rather than using CLP for everything. Just my $0.02 on the subject. __________________ Words to Live By: Before You Pray - Believe; Before You Speak - Listen; Before You Spend - Earn; Before You Write - Think; Before You Quit - Try; Before You Die - Live

September 2, 2015, 07:21 AM	#2
Hunter2678 Senior Member Join Date: March 16, 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 235	FWIW, after Ive cleaned with CLP I'll wipe away all the excess oil & debris, then I'll go back and re-lube the pistol with it as I normally would.

September 2, 2015, 09:30 AM	#3
9x18_Walther Senior Member Join Date: June 2, 2015 Posts: 500	Do you typically oil in the magwell on all steel pistols? I've asked a few people and some seem to leave the gun dry and only hit the lube points? Somewhat worried about rust.

September 2, 2015, 09:45 AM	#4
Doyle Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2007 Location: Rainbow City, Alabama Posts: 7,167	I use CLP on all my firearms. However, instead of wiping away the excess I use an air hose to blow it dry. Leaves a very thin film of protection on all the metal surfaces.

September 2, 2015, 10:01 AM	#5
Skans Senior Member Join Date: November 20, 2008 Posts: 11,132	I use CLP when shooting my small "pocket" 9mm's and used to use it when shooting an AMT 45 backup. I spray the chamber and wipe it out after several magazines. This really cuts down on malfunctions while shooting and it's easy to use.

September 2, 2015, 11:13 AM	#7
Doyle Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2007 Location: Rainbow City, Alabama Posts: 7,167	I think it is important to make a distinction between needing to use a petroleum based lubricant (like CLP) as a metal protectant and needing to use a dedicated lubricant on moving parts. While CLP might indeed work on some moving parts, it is not an ideal lubricant for all moving parts.

September 2, 2015, 02:09 PM	#8
9x18_Walther Senior Member Join Date: June 2, 2015 Posts: 500	Doyle, That is somewhat of what I'm getting at. I've watched probably a hundred cleaning/lubrication videos and about half apply CLP and wipe it off with a cloth and call it a day and others follow up afterwards with a precision oiler, etc. to hit the rails and other moving parts. It's just that I have always used a solvent to clean all of the fowled components and then just used a plain jane oil to lubrication just the moving parts. It looks like most people oil every square inch of the gun. Am I doing it wrong?

September 2, 2015, 04:28 PM	#10
9x18_Walther Senior Member Join Date: June 2, 2015 Posts: 500	If I'm in a hot, relatively dry climate would you suggest a dedicated anti-corrosive agent or just oil?

September 2, 2015, 07:29 PM	#11
Doyle Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2007 Location: Rainbow City, Alabama Posts: 7,167	This test might help you decide. I don't see the test as being absolutely scientific gospel fact, but it does show differences in some of the products available. http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

September 2, 2015, 09:21 PM	#12
cc-hangfire Senior Member Join Date: August 14, 2014 Posts: 304	There is great variability in opinions on lubrication, & we each pick what works best for our guns and our maintenance methods. For me, Breakfree CLP is my primary handgun product. I wipe down all parts on modern polymer guns with tabs for rails and run them almost dry, but I use a little gun grease on my pistols with full rails (& a little grease on the hammer face that contacts the slide) after CLP & wipe down. I have a few that only run well a little wet - all steel, full rails, tighter tolerances.

September 3, 2015, 12:05 AM	#13
CodeSection Member Join Date: October 31, 2014 Posts: 86	I use Breakfree CLP as well...wipe off excess and allow to dry. Once dry, I use Brian Enos' Slide-Guide on the rails. It simply works and maintains its composition. Best stuff I have used. Slide-glide comes in different viscosities depending upon your location and environment. You can check it out in the link below.. http://www.brianenos.com/store/slide-glide.html Good luck!