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November 10, 2011, 02:07 PM | #1 |
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Removing rust without excessive finish damage?
I just got a chance to look at some guns my dad has neglected. The have varying degrees of rust from light specs to some that surely have considerable pitting. I'm going to clean the bores for now but what about the outer surface and interior of the receivers? I don't want to do ANY damage that I can avoid. I've read that 0000 steel wool with oil is good, then I read that the oil is bad because it keeps the rust there and that steel wool is too aggressive. What about brass or copper wool? What about special pads like THIS ONE? What about using electrolysis? It seems pretty easy, just a battery charger and some basic materials.
The guns are 2 Westernfield lever action 30-30s, one Winchester Model 94, 1891 Argentine Mauser, Universal M1 carbine, a couple shotguns and some 22LRs. It's a shame he let them sit for so long and they went through a flood... |
November 10, 2011, 02:12 PM | #2 | |
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Quote:
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November 10, 2011, 10:53 PM | #3 |
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FWIW, I do NOT recommend steel wool, either oiled or dry. The best I have found is bronze (brass) wool or copper wool, sold as pot cleaners in your local super market. Steel wool WILL scratch fine bluing, no matter what anyone says (they haven't looked at the surface under magnification). Steel wool may be necessary, but use it only if necessary - try the brass or copper first.
Jim |
November 10, 2011, 11:07 PM | #4 | |
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November 10, 2011, 11:30 PM | #5 |
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Hello, bigj480. If you can find some copper or brass sheet..about 1/32" to 1/16" thick..about 1/2" wide or so. file end flat with sharp edges & flood area with very light oil or Hoppes..use in a scraping motion..this will take off rough rust above surface..there more than likely is going to be pitting..and nothing will get rid of that except polishing down past bottom of pits.
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November 11, 2011, 03:09 AM | #6 |
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I do the same thing as Ideal Tool suggests except with a 1982 or earlier copper penny. A bit of oil and scrape, scrape, scrape. Steel wool is tool harsh and will remove the finish. Copper is softer than steel and will leave a light yellow patina that will come off in time.
You asked about copper scouring pads. Well, as they are less rigid they will take longer than a penny or a piece of scrap brass. I use pieces of copper scouring pads to clean the bore of lead build-up. BTW, I would avoid steel wool, even 0000 steel wool.
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November 11, 2011, 04:30 AM | #7 |
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Gentle rubbing with 0000 steel wool and oil.
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November 11, 2011, 04:34 PM | #8 |
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Thank you all for the replies, especially those who posted in both threads. I think I'll do the 0000 steel wool and Kroil, I'm not worried about microscopic scratches and , unfortunately, some of them are bad enough that they really need to be re-blued anyway.
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November 19, 2011, 01:24 AM | #9 |
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all good ideas...but without knowing the damage and depth of the rust pits start off with a blue "non scratching" scotch bright...you're gonna have to re-blue if there is rust anyways...get as much of the rust off as u can then if needed move to a more abrasive material if the pits aren't too deep...keep in mind u don't want to take metal off past spec. limits...some areas are more giving then others...good luck!
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November 23, 2011, 12:16 PM | #10 |
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The dark red Scotchbrite works well for heavy rust but will remove bluing.
If blued I would gently go over them with Flitz polish first. You may be surprised at how well it cleans them up.
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November 24, 2011, 12:59 PM | #11 |
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please
Brownells offers stainless steel wool so one does not need to concern oneself with carbon-steel embedding.
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November 24, 2011, 01:01 PM | #12 |
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rust specks
pencil eraser
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November 26, 2011, 07:41 PM | #13 |
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no brainer
1 part feed grade molasses and 9 parts water. Soak for 3 days. clean and lube.
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November 26, 2011, 08:22 PM | #14 |
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The molasses will remove all the rust including the bluing. Bluing is a form of rust, so that mix will remove all the rust.
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