What is the best cleaner for removing powder burns on nickel finishes?

Baron Holbach · September 20, 2002, 08:15 AM

Which cleaner is best at removing powder burns around the mouth of the slide on nickel finishes?

Ledbetter · September 20, 2002, 12:49 PM

Get as much as you can off with a soak in FP-10 and rubbing with a clean patch.

If any remains, use Flitz metal polish on a clean cloth. Do not use ammoniated cleaners, including Hoppes. If there are any cracks or nicks in the nickel, the ammonia can cause it to flake off.

Regards.

Baron Holbach · September 20, 2002, 04:14 PM

Thanks, Ledbetter, for your tip. I will shop for some FP-10.

twoblink · September 24, 2002, 03:43 PM

Flitz + a rag and elbow grease.

I have a small 2" snubbie revolver that is stainless... and I get the same problem. I usually invite a girl over to help me clean my guns, I give her some flitz, and a rag... and she will shine it up like a mirror. I usually like the females to help me clean, they are anal and meticulous, and every one of them have done a great job.

That's why I prefer to take women to the range over men; they are better listeners, and they always help to clean the guns afterwards.

Ledbetter · September 24, 2002, 04:08 PM

I always start with a non-abrasive cleaner. I have found (my free sample of) FP-10 to be a better residue cleaner than CLP if you apply and let it sit 30 minutes or so.

Walt Sherrill · September 25, 2002, 11:47 AM

I've found the LEAD-AWAY and similar cloths to be especially effective in removing the mess from the front of cylinders. (But I've only done this with stainless steel and nickel guns; don't know how that works on blued weapons -- or wether the cloth will affect the bluing.)

September 20, 2002, 08:15 AM	#1
Baron Holbach Senior Member Join Date: July 10, 2002 Location: Maryland Posts: 238	What is the best cleaner for removing powder burns on nickel finishes? Which cleaner is best at removing powder burns around the mouth of the slide on nickel finishes?

September 20, 2002, 04:14 PM	#3
Baron Holbach Senior Member Join Date: July 10, 2002 Location: Maryland Posts: 238	FP-10 Thanks, Ledbetter, for your tip. I will shop for some FP-10.

September 24, 2002, 03:43 PM	#4
twoblink Senior Member Join Date: December 22, 1999 Location: Taipei, Taiwan Posts: 2,025	Flitz + a rag and elbow grease. I have a small 2" snubbie revolver that is stainless... and I get the same problem. I usually invite a girl over to help me clean my guns, I give her some flitz, and a rag... and she will shine it up like a mirror. I usually like the females to help me clean, they are anal and meticulous, and every one of them have done a great job. That's why I prefer to take women to the range over men; they are better listeners, and they always help to clean the guns afterwards. __________________ "An unarmed society is one that's ripe for tyranny and oppression."

September 24, 2002, 04:08 PM	#5
Ledbetter Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2000 Location: California USA Posts: 4,533	Regarding FP-10 and CLP I always start with a non-abrasive cleaner. I have found (my free sample of) FP-10 to be a better residue cleaner than CLP if you apply and let it sit 30 minutes or so.

September 20, 2002, 12:49 PM	#2
Ledbetter Senior Member Join Date: February 23, 2000 Location: California USA Posts: 4,533	Get as much as you can off with a soak in FP-10 and rubbing with a clean patch. If any remains, use Flitz metal polish on a clean cloth. Do not use ammoniated cleaners, including Hoppes. If there are any cracks or nicks in the nickel, the ammonia can cause it to flake off. Regards.

September 25, 2002, 11:47 AM	#6
Walt Sherrill Senior Member Join Date: February 15, 1999 Location: Winston-Salem, NC USA Posts: 6,348	I've found the LEAD-AWAY and similar cloths to be especially effective in removing the mess from the front of cylinders. (But I've only done this with stainless steel and nickel guns; don't know how that works on blued weapons -- or wether the cloth will affect the bluing.)