New hornady lnl press, sizing die stuck in ICC brass

[Slapchop]

I am brand new to reloading. While following the manufacturers instructions on assembly, we installed the 223 sizer, lubed up a case, and attempted to size and de-prime. The pin doesn't seem to get close to the primer (we started at recommended length of 3/16" and went up to 1/2"). And then it keeps getting stuck in the neck on the down stroke. The inside of the case was also lubed. We tried one shot, and followed up with powdered black graphite, as recommended on the hornady trouble shooting page. Please help a rookie reloader!

[jwrowland77]

Here's what I do.

I use kiwi mink oil. Cheap and can get it regularly. I swipe my fingers across the top rub it on the case body. Then I take a q-tip and lightly roll it across the top of the polish. I do a quick turn around the inside of the neck. Bingo-bango, resized case.

I did get my first case stuck (wasn't using mink oil polish) so I pushed the expander ball into the case. Took the depriming pin out of the die. Took my dremel tool and cut of the bottom of the case without touching the pin. Pin came out, reassembled die and filed away the lesson learned.

[Slapchop]

We'll give it a shot!

[jag2]

Something you didn't mention so I'll ask. Did you give the die a good cleaning? You should have swabbed the inside of the die, what ever gun cleaner you use should work. Remove the decapping pin so you can get at it. Hoppes, CLP or something similar. After cleaning give it a short blast of your One Shot. Might help.

[Slapchop]

We did clean the die, more than once. Thanks.

[mehavey]

We tried one shot...

I don't know how many threads about stuck cases start with that phrase. (Yeah I do.... Almost all of them)

Pleaaaaase go get some RCBS Case Lube:



Put a BB-sized drop on the case, rub that around the case body (especially lower body) with your fingers,
then size. (You'll find those fingers are then good for the next several cases as you pick them up and before
you have to add more.)

As far as cleaning the die before use, simply inserting a rolled-up paper towel and twisting it in tightly
before withdrawing is usually more than enough to make for a clean, dry interior.






post script on the de-priming pin never getting close to the primer: Did you start by running the
shell-holder all the way up, and then screwing the sizing die down all the way to firmly contact that
shellholder? (This may be a dumb question on my part. )

[steve4102]

Originally Posted by Slapchop

we installed the 223 sizer, lubed up a case, and attempted to size and de-prime. The pin doesn't seem to get close to the primer (we started at recommended length of 3/16" and went up to 1/2").

Sounds to me like you do not have the Full Length sizing die set up in the press correctly.
Can you give the details as to how you set it up?

[tobnpr]

If it's getting stuck in the neck at the start of the downstroke it sounds to me like you're not getting any lube inside the case necks. The expander ball needs it.

It's a love-hate thing on this board, but I like the spray lubes- like Hornady's One Shot (my choice) because of the ease of getting lube inside the case necks.

Like Steve said, sounds like you don't have the de-capping pin depth set correctly. Needs to be a few sixteenth's below the depth of the shellplate when the press is cammed over.

[Slapchop]

It is a full length sizing die. We raised the shell holder, screwed the die down til it touched, lowered the shell plate, turned another half turn tighter and set it. The case is getting stuck on the up stroke, when plate is on the way down. The decapper doesn't seem to even be reaching the primer.

[jonathon1289]

The die body and decapping rod are adjusted separately, so the primer may not pop out just because the die was adjusted to touch the shellholder.
I use one shot sometimes but the Dillon spray lube is the best IMO. It is lanolin based and you can easily make your own lube - lanolin and alcohol.

[jag2]

I think maybe j1298 is on the right track. The die needs to go up and the decapping pin needs to go down. The die instructions give you a good starting point but you make adjustments from there. The decapping pin should be the easiest, cycle the handle without a shell and it should be obvious if it isn't going down far enough.

[Jim243]

lowered the shell plate,

I am brand new to reloading.

He is using a progressive press, not a single stage with a case holder.

This is not a tool for a Newbee, try following the directions that came with your dies.

Jim

Loosen the decaping rod, bring a lubed case up on the press and adjust your die, then then lower your decaping rod till it pops your primer out and lock it down. At this point the base of the decaping rod is just touching the bottom of the case with the pin through the flash hole. Once you lock it down at that point, bring the handle up, plate down will resize the neck properly and with out a problem.

Jim

[Slapchop]

Thanks everybody. Gonna give it another go tonight.

[snuffy]

Here we have a beginner starting out on an experts press. It's like asking a baby that's just learned to walk to go run a marathon. Then, to start loading a round that's best left for an experienced loader.(Or somebody that has a mentor to guide him/her). Good luck, you're going to need it!

One shot is terrible junk. It's simply a wax suspended in a liquid solvent. It IS a suspension, NOT a mixture. It must be shaken like a can of spray paint before using, the given time to let it dry before you start sizing. AND it's expensive!

[tobnpr]

Here we have a beginner starting out on an experts press. It's like asking a baby that's just learned to walk to go run a marathon

With all due respect, I disagree.

The LNL AP was my first press. Needing to reload for myself and my two sons, I knew a single stage was not an option for the long-term.

The LNL provides the ability to VERY easily remove cases to spot check at any stage in the reloading process due to the spring retainer system used on the shellplate.

It was probably four or five months before I actually started using the press as a true "progressive". I started out one case at a time, pulled it out after every stage to check headspace (shoulder bump) after the sizing die, then after primer seating to be sure it was flush, then (often multiple times) at the powder drop to check the charge. It's as simple as doing it on a single stage press, if the operator chooses to run it that way.

I ran the press that way- one shell at a time, from sizing all the way around- until I was comfortable with the process and then moved "up" to using it as a progressive.

When doing load development, I still run it as a "single stage" press.

[snuffy]

The LNL AP was my first press. Needing to reload for myself and my two sons, I knew a single stage was not an option for the long-term.

Then, you were an exception to what most will do. Most want instant results, they rush in head first, then wonder why their loads don't work.

It makes no difference whether the press was a LNL, or a Dillon. A rookie is going to be overwhelmed by everything going on at once. Lee's progressives are even worse, hard for even a veteran to get set-up.

A single stage is like training wheels on a bike. It will always find uses in anybodies loading room. Like depriming before cleaning, or using a competition seater that can't be used in a progressive.

[Unclenick]

Slapchop,

I hope you got it sorted out, but the earlier comments about a die setup error are correct. The reason the decapping pin doesn't reach the primer is the pin and, with it, the expander are up too high inside the die body. When the expander is up too high, wedging of the case neck can occur between it and the die body, making it harder than normal either to size or withdraw the neck of the case.

The expander height is set together with the decapping pin. The decapper pin should stick out below the mouth of the sizing die by about 3/16" when it is set correctly.

Remember, the die mouth stops on the top of the shell plate, but the case still has its primer pocket mouth about the thickness of the rim plus the thickness of the shell plate below that, and the mouth of the primer pocket is what the pin has to extend past to decap. This is why it must protrude below the mouth of the case.

[hunter52]

The OP said it was a Hornady LNL press I cannot find any reference to a LNL AP press, so it is maybe a single stage press?

If it is a Hornady die set, the sizer has an elliptical expander, if the rod is not tightened properly, especially if it is the older style, without the zip spindle ,the expander can move up and down enough to cause a lot of grief and not punch the primer .

[wncchester]

Well, it's hardly likely a case that doesn't fully enter the die will get deprimed is it? And lowering a decap rod so the pin extends more than maybe 3/16" below the die mouth is a good way to get the rod bent when you do finally get the case into the die.

Difficulty getting a case into a sizer is always from a lack of properly applying a case lube. Any commercial case lube (and a lot of substitutes) will work fine IF it's applied correctly. All of the water soluable case lubes are soaps, some are lanoline, others are waxes. A few are basically gooey petroleum oils like STP. The waxes are perhaps the cleanest to use and least likely to contaminate anything.

Light lubing inside bottle necks cases will ease withdrawing an expander ball but no case has ever gotten "stuck" in a sizer die due to a lack of inside neck lubing.

[Slapchop]

I'm feeling confident now that our mistake has to be in the die setup. We will also try a couple of the most recommended case lubes. As we set out to learn to walk first, then chew gum, then walk AND chew gum (it is an auto-indexing progressive), the press will be used for accuracy first, then speed. Thanks for the helpful advice. After I get a straight decapping rod from Hornady, we're gonna start over. If anybody has a pic of a properly set up & installed Hornady die, I think it might help us get ours setup.

[schmellba99]

Just for future reference - the Hornady One Shot is not that great of a case lube. It's great for cleaning and lubing dies, hitting the shell plate on occasion to have a good dry lube layer, or using on pistol brass with carbide dies to give just a hint of lubrication even if it is not necessary.

But for full length rifle brass resizing and lubing, it is not a good choice at all.

I have an LnL and like red a lot, but the Dillon case lube is absolutely nails. Once I switched over (several years ago), I have not had a stuck case since then.

Get you an old cookie sheet from the missus, lay your rifle brass flat on the sheet, give it a couple of sprays of lube, and then roll the brass around with the sheet to distribute the lube. Let sit for about 5 minutes, then you are ready to go. I don't use Imperial or mink oil or anything that requires each individual piece of brass to get tender loving care, because I'm lazy enough that this defeats the purpose to me. A good spray lube and a cookie sheet will get you every bit of the result you are looking for.

[jag2]

Sounds like you're heading in the right direction. Although I am a staunch supporter of One Shot I do admit I just use it on pistol brass as schmellba99 described. However, when just starting out I was getting dents in the shoulder of some 243s and was told I had too much lube. I was using a lube pad and I think RCBS lube. Point is, nothing better than experience and then you can make your own choices.

[Slapchop]

OK. We're back in the game. Could not understand how the sizing/decapping was supposed to work if the decapping rod moved with the case. Put a RCBS die in, tried some RCBS case lube, and we are golden. (Tried the One Shot again too, the RCBS felt a little more slick but there were no hang ups with the One Shot). Any suggestions on how to set up the Hornady die? I'm thinking since the RCBS decapper locks in tight, to just stick with what's working but there must be some benefit to a sliding decapper, right?

[jwrowland77]

There's no sliding decapping pins. The Hornady decapping pin locks down as well. Just take a adjustable wrench and lock it down.

[schmellba99]

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What this guy said.

Screw the decapping pin down until there is about 3/16" of the pin protruding below the bottom of the die, then take a couple of crescent wrenches and tighten the nut on top of the die to hold the pin in position. Good to go after that.