Reassembled SP101 - What checks are necessary?

Rich Miranda · March 13, 2010, 02:11 PM

I disassembled my Ruger SP101 because I the cylinder stop had gotten stuck down and the cylinder was rotating freely (this was my fault as I had sprayed GunScrubber into the opening. It only happened briefly, but this is a carry gun so you can understand my concern...) Anyhoo, I got it all apart, cleaned it, lubed it, and reassembled it. It dry-fires fine, and seems to be 100%.

Are there other checks I should do before I actually fire it?

DogoDon · March 13, 2010, 02:23 PM

The same thing happened to me not long ago when I cleaned my SP101. I think what happens is the spring-loaded plunger under the cylinder latch gets a little bit out of place, so the latch doesn't do what it's supposed to do. I think the key is to get the plunger back into its correct position.

That's just my guess. I'm curious to hear from somebody who actually knows, though.

DogoDon

napg19 · March 14, 2010, 02:08 PM

Had same thing happen. I had to take off the latch, wipe it clean with cleaner, install with a good drop of Remoil and push latch up and down afew times and it works great now. Mines my carry gun also and that was a spooky feeling. Gun scrubber is getting more expensive, so last time at wally world I bought a can of their generic carburator cleaner and used it on my sp101. Cleaned real good, did not mess up finish. A garage mechanic told me they are both made of alcohol, so if he's right, there is a big price difference. Any feed back on the carb cleaner is welcome.

drail · March 14, 2010, 06:00 PM

Almost every Ruger I have torn down has had a lot of machining burrs in the frame and trigger guard. If tiny chips of metal break off and end up in the right place it can tie up the gun. The best thing to do with one is tear it down completely and go over everything and look for burrs and scrape or stone them off (not the hammer or sear surfaces) or run a drill bit by hand into the bored holes and clean them out. Then use high pressure compressed air to blast all the chips out of everything. (wear safety glasses). Relube everything with your favorite oil/grease and go to the range. Ruger designs and builds some of the best revolvers on the market today but I wish they could spend a little more time deburring and cleaning the machining chips out of them. Their triggers are finished with corners so sharp you can slice salami with them. Ouch! Carb cleaner is a little more aggressive than what you really need for a gun and is hard on some finishes and plastic parts as well as your skin. I just brush on some CLP, let it soak and hit it with an M16 brush and blow it off or wipe it out and call it good. All of the aerosol cleaners are overpriced and a lot of the product gets wasted and most of them are nasty stuff. If you clean a lot of guns buy a cheap compressor and blow gun nozzle. Air is free and a pint of solvent goes a long way.

publius · March 16, 2010, 06:13 PM

napg, I have been using carb and brake cleaner for years with excellent results. I usually disassemble gun and scrub well with solvent and rinse clean w/carb cleaner. Oil and reassemble. Don't get it on plastic!

napg19 · March 18, 2010, 07:27 PM

Thanks. I won't knock the plastic guns, but this is another reason I went back to all steel.

March 13, 2010, 02:11 PM	#1
Rich Miranda Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2008 Location: San Antonio, not San Antone... Posts: 1,203	Reassembled SP101 - What checks are necessary? I disassembled my Ruger SP101 because I the cylinder stop had gotten stuck down and the cylinder was rotating freely (this was my fault as I had sprayed GunScrubber into the opening. It only happened briefly, but this is a carry gun so you can understand my concern...) Anyhoo, I got it all apart, cleaned it, lubed it, and reassembled it. It dry-fires fine, and seems to be 100%. Are there other checks I should do before I actually fire it? __________________ Read this!: I collect .38 Special and .357 Mag cartridges and I will PAY CASH for the headstamps I don't already have! Please PM me. Please donate blood, plasma, and platelets - people's lives literally depend on it.

March 14, 2010, 06:00 PM	#4
drail Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2008 Posts: 3,150	Almost every Ruger I have torn down has had a lot of machining burrs in the frame and trigger guard. If tiny chips of metal break off and end up in the right place it can tie up the gun. The best thing to do with one is tear it down completely and go over everything and look for burrs and scrape or stone them off (not the hammer or sear surfaces) or run a drill bit by hand into the bored holes and clean them out. Then use high pressure compressed air to blast all the chips out of everything. (wear safety glasses). Relube everything with your favorite oil/grease and go to the range. Ruger designs and builds some of the best revolvers on the market today but I wish they could spend a little more time deburring and cleaning the machining chips out of them. Their triggers are finished with corners so sharp you can slice salami with them. Ouch! Carb cleaner is a little more aggressive than what you really need for a gun and is hard on some finishes and plastic parts as well as your skin. I just brush on some CLP, let it soak and hit it with an M16 brush and blow it off or wipe it out and call it good. All of the aerosol cleaners are overpriced and a lot of the product gets wasted and most of them are nasty stuff. If you clean a lot of guns buy a cheap compressor and blow gun nozzle. Air is free and a pint of solvent goes a long way. Last edited by drail; March 14, 2010 at 06:05 PM.

March 16, 2010, 06:13 PM	#5
publius Senior Member Join Date: January 25, 2005 Location: Mississippi/Texas Posts: 2,505	napg, I have been using carb and brake cleaner for years with excellent results. I usually disassemble gun and scrub well with solvent and rinse clean w/carb cleaner. Oil and reassemble. Don't get it on plastic! __________________ "Suppose you were an idiot, and suppose you were a member of Congress, but I repeat myself." Mark Twain

March 13, 2010, 02:23 PM	#2
DogoDon Senior Member Join Date: January 8, 2010 Location: Charlotte, NC Posts: 368	The same thing happened to me not long ago when I cleaned my SP101. I think what happens is the spring-loaded plunger under the cylinder latch gets a little bit out of place, so the latch doesn't do what it's supposed to do. I think the key is to get the plunger back into its correct position. That's just my guess. I'm curious to hear from somebody who actually knows, though. DogoDon

March 14, 2010, 02:08 PM	#3
napg19 Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2009 Location: Arkansas Posts: 431	Had same thing happen. I had to take off the latch, wipe it clean with cleaner, install with a good drop of Remoil and push latch up and down afew times and it works great now. Mines my carry gun also and that was a spooky feeling. Gun scrubber is getting more expensive, so last time at wally world I bought a can of their generic carburator cleaner and used it on my sp101. Cleaned real good, did not mess up finish. A garage mechanic told me they are both made of alcohol, so if he's right, there is a big price difference. Any feed back on the carb cleaner is welcome.

March 18, 2010, 07:27 PM	#6
napg19 Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2009 Location: Arkansas Posts: 431	Thanks. I won't knock the plastic guns, but this is another reason I went back to all steel.