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June 13, 2016, 04:31 PM | #26 |
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Join Date: August 23, 2014
Location: Nevada/Ariz/CA
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I didn't know you were supposed to clean them. Well maybe seating dies when using lubricated bullets and the lube starts to build up inside. Then anything handy like WD40 with a cleaning patch on a dowel rod. Remove the seating stem first. Rifle sizing dies seem to be self cleaning enough since case lube during sizing seems to keep them sufficiently cleaned out. Or maybe I'm missing something here.
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June 13, 2016, 11:25 PM | #27 |
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Join Date: March 20, 2014
Location: Kinda near Phoenix, AZ
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I clean my dies mostly because of my OCD tendencies. So, a couple of weeks before fishing season starts (there's no legal start or end to fishing season here, it's just the break I give myself every year), and after the end of quail season I disassemble my dies and shoot them all with WD-40, run a nylon bore brush through them, wipe them out with a cotton patch, then shoot them all with Hornady One Shot. Some of the dies seem to have quite a bit of dirt in them, some not so much. I've only got 8 sets of dies, so this entire process takes less than an hour. Allow them to air dry, then reset them all back on their respective turrets and I'm back in business.
I do about the same thing to my presses. |
June 14, 2016, 01:47 AM | #28 |
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Join Date: January 7, 2008
Posts: 3,224
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I rarely ever clean most of them. But my 45 Colt seating die gets a lot of hand-lubed, cast bullets that leave a buildup of excess lube that has to be cleaned out regularly. Boiling water or cautious use of a torch melts it out quickly, followed by a soft cloth while it's still warm and it's good to go again.
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June 14, 2016, 10:08 PM | #29 |
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Join Date: May 15, 2012
Location: Texas
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I use paper towels and acetone. The seating dies build up with bullet lube occasionally.
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June 17, 2016, 01:09 PM | #30 |
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Join Date: December 4, 1999
Location: WA, the ever blue state
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I read this 14 years ago
http://www.varmintal.com/arelo.htm POLISH THE DIES.... I polish the inside of my rifle reloading dies. Most die manufacturers leave the die bores smooth but not polished. A polished die will resize with much less axial force than one in the as-received condition. I disassemble them and put a little Flitz on a cotton bore mop held in a drill motor and polish each one for 30 seconds or more at a 300 to 600 rpm speed. Sometimes I have to wrap a paper towel around the swab to get a good fit. Then I clean all the polish out with hot water and dry with a paper towel wrapped around a clean cotton swab. The polishing process does not remove a measurable amount of material, but results in smoother operation, minimizes the scratching or scoring of the brass, and minimizes crumpling problems when I use them while forming wildcat brass. For the 14 years since then I have pulled the decapping stem and put the die in the mini lathe chuck, spun it, and poked inside with a Q tip with Flitz on it. Then I poke it with a clean Q tip. Cleaning does not seem to be needed for sizing dies that only see clean brass. But if you want to see really dirty dies, buy used dies off Ebay. Some of those dies are very dirty.
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June 17, 2016, 07:19 PM | #31 | |
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Join Date: April 10, 2008
Location: Alaska
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Quote:
So I do get crud in the chamber from the bit of carbon. So I figure that that is what gun cleaning solvent is for and when I clean them that's what I use. Oil when done and clean out residue. |
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June 18, 2016, 10:18 AM | #32 | |
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Join Date: July 18, 2008
Posts: 7,249
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Quote:
A case is embeddable, anything left on the case when sized is embedded into the case, after that the case has a surface that takes the shine from the inside of the die and chamber. Again, I want nothing between my chamber and case gut air, not a lot of air; same for the die but instead of air I want lube. Not a lot of lube, just a film. And I insist the lube is clean, any dirt, grit and or grime in the lube will be imbedded into the case even though the lube will flow the lube will not carry the dirt, grit and or grime with it. F. Guffey |
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