Any tips on polishing stainless steel?

surg_res · September 22, 2008, 07:57 PM

I'm looking for tips to polishing the gray out of a stainless steel receiver. I'm currently using metal polish paste with a rag and 000 steel wool to try and brighten the metal up a bit, though with only moderate success.

This method is quite time consuming and laborious and I was wondering if there is an easier alternative.

Thanks.

fisherman66 · September 22, 2008, 08:04 PM

Quote:

I was wondering if there is an easier alternative.

Turn on the hunting channel or whatever you enjoy.

The process takes time and is mindless.

I did use a dremel for the flutes in the cylinders, but everything else was done by hand.

Bill DeShivs · September 22, 2008, 08:43 PM

A lot of variables come into play-
What kind of gun, how rough is the finish, what metal polish are you using?

**Unclenick** · September 23, 2008, 08:52 AM

Dremel and felt bobs or a small buffing wheel on drill arbors and loaded with Dico Stainless Steel buffing compound. If you happen to have a full size buffer, obviously that would be fastest.

Bill DeShivs · September 23, 2008, 01:54 PM

Please keep the Dremel away from the gun!
I have been polishing guns and knives for many years, and I can't get a decent finish with a Dremel-so I know a novice can't. The surface contact area is too small to get a consistent finish.

surg_res · September 23, 2008, 06:23 PM

Bill, check out my post in C&R forum about the 1908 mauser. I posted it there with questions about the stainless barrel bands. The receiver metal is in great shape, very smooth with crisp and sharp markings, but turning a little gray with age. Thanks for the advice.

This rifle is the 6th or 7th DWM in my collection, and I've always been impressed with how well German steel ages when well cared for, as compared with all of the other junk guns made during that time in history.

The rifle is beautiful, but being the compulsive type, I like to see that mirror shine.

Vstrom · September 29, 2008, 10:16 PM

I polish a lot of stainless, I have a surgical instrument repair business and you cannot really do a good job with a Dremel, I use a foredom flex shaft tool and I can only polish small items with it, for larger items I use a Baldor 8 inch buffer with either white or red rouge. You must have experience to use these or you can turn your item your polishing into a missile and hurt your self! Do not ask how I know!

If you could find a leather wheel for a dremel it may work better than felt or cotton as both or these will leave buffing marks.

drail · October 2, 2008, 09:03 PM

Yeah, forget the Dremel for polishing a frame or barrel. Either successively finer grades of sandpaper up to 1500 to 2000 grit or the buffer. And a buffer really does make an excellent missile launcher. Use eye protection and think about which way it's going to go if you slip. The buffer is the most dangeous thang in my shop.

Bill DeShivs · October 2, 2008, 09:12 PM

Not only is it dangerous, a buffer can really mess a gun up unless you know what you are doing with it.

HiBC · October 3, 2008, 03:01 AM

My employer once sent me to understudy a master mold polisher.This gentleman was polishing dies for striking coins at a mint while I was with him.
I cannot approach teaching you in this forum.
I can tell you the higher the polish,the more imperfections will show.I can tell you that trueness of form is critical.By using "soft" processes,you will alter trueness of form.You will make high and low spots,ripples,etc.As light hits these,the highlights will emphasize this variation,and I would prefer an as cast matte finish.

I used stones called "puddle stones".They resembled a Japanese water stone in a way.The graded grit is sifted into water and allowed to settle,then baked.
Most commercial polishing stones (Gesswein,DME) are made by a press and vitrify process,and the issue is as the stone breaks down,a chunk of 3 or 5 grits will cut diggers in the finish.
What you might try is go to a machinist suppy like MSC and order some mold finishing diamond lap compound.
Cut some pieces of hard maple to use like files.They can be formed a bit.Use the grit with the maple like a file.
If you change to a finer grit,change direction,and work till there are no scratches.
If you can settle for a soft lustre,a very fine Scotchbrite is quite forgiving,but,only as a quick finishing touch.

The greatest part of the work must be done by some form of straight tool,like a sanding block.You want to cut off the high spots while you leave the low spots alone.
I have an interesting tool called a DME "Jigger".A pistol shaped affair that makes a 0-10,000 stroke a minute reciprocal motion,controlled by a foot rheostat.It takes various stone holders and picks and laps.My little cable rotary tool is 1/2 hp 10,000 rpm with a 1/4 collet.I cut buffs with a hole saw,2 or 3 in in dia from 1 " thick rock hard felt and put them on a mandrel.I use 1 in dia Tampico end brushes.These are large enough to work flat surfaces.Holes are filled with brass plugs to not wash,etc.

Once again,have fun,but polish with something backed by wood,or a red eraser,or use polishing stones to respect the original form of the part.

brickeyee · October 3, 2008, 12:09 PM

Quote:

... 000 steel wool to try and brighten the metal up a bit ...

Avoid the steel wool.
It can leave enough smear of carbon steel behind to promote surface rusting.

After machining Stainless is 'pickled' to promote the formation of the protective layer and remove any carbon steel left behind by cutting tools.

Bill DeShivs · October 3, 2008, 12:42 PM

No it won't. Just wipe it off and oil the surface.

brickeyee · October 3, 2008, 02:27 PM

The oil will be the only thing preventing the carbon steel from rusting.

Bill DeShivs · October 3, 2008, 05:43 PM

The steel wool is softer than the gun. Any residue will simply wipe off.

brickeyee · October 4, 2008, 01:31 PM

Not true.

It is not just about hardness, but about the bonding of one type of steel to another.

Bill DeShivs · October 4, 2008, 01:36 PM

OK. After 35 years, I haven't seen it.

Snake.45 · November 9, 2008, 03:17 PM

Wenol and a tshirt is what i use on my stainless guns. Wenol is the best IMO.

Theojt · November 23, 2008, 01:46 PM

For internal components, I have scavenged some ceramic from old, unusable electronic equipment. Look for Integrated Circuits (IC's) that come in various rectangular sizes - must be ceramic, not plastic as found in newer equipment. Some of them seem to be finer cutting than others so I had a small collection. Pull the IC out of the equipment (if socket mounted) or desolder it. Dremel off the legs and mount it onto something suitable as a handle. I just used them as is however.

Polishing is a very slow process as mentioned but if you can find these, they work pretty sweet.

Obvious disclaimers about messing around inside electronic gear apply!

September 22, 2008, 07:57 PM	#1
surg_res Senior Member Join Date: September 29, 2005 Location: Texas, 5th GEN! Posts: 621	Any tips on polishing stainless steel? I'm looking for tips to polishing the gray out of a stainless steel receiver. I'm currently using metal polish paste with a rag and 000 steel wool to try and brighten the metal up a bit, though with only moderate success. This method is quite time consuming and laborious and I was wondering if there is an easier alternative. Thanks. __________________ ----

September 22, 2008, 08:43 PM	#3
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,987	A lot of variables come into play- What kind of gun, how rough is the finish, what metal polish are you using? __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

September 23, 2008, 08:52 AM	#4
Unclenick Staff Join Date: March 4, 2005 Location: Ohio Posts: 21,063	Dremel and felt bobs or a small buffing wheel on drill arbors and loaded with Dico Stainless Steel buffing compound. If you happen to have a full size buffer, obviously that would be fastest. __________________ Gunsite Orange Hat Family Member CMP Certified GSM Master Instructor NRA Certified Rifle Instructor NRA Benefactor Member and Golden Eagle

September 23, 2008, 01:54 PM	#5
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,987	Please keep the Dremel away from the gun! I have been polishing guns and knives for many years, and I can't get a decent finish with a Dremel-so I know a novice can't. The surface contact area is too small to get a consistent finish. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

September 23, 2008, 06:23 PM	#6
surg_res Senior Member Join Date: September 29, 2005 Location: Texas, 5th GEN! Posts: 621	Bill, check out my post in C&R forum about the 1908 mauser. I posted it there with questions about the stainless barrel bands. The receiver metal is in great shape, very smooth with crisp and sharp markings, but turning a little gray with age. Thanks for the advice. This rifle is the 6th or 7th DWM in my collection, and I've always been impressed with how well German steel ages when well cared for, as compared with all of the other junk guns made during that time in history. The rifle is beautiful, but being the compulsive type, I like to see that mirror shine. __________________ ----

September 29, 2008, 10:16 PM	#7
Vstrom Member Join Date: October 18, 2007 Location: Washington state Posts: 78	I polish a lot of stainless, I have a surgical instrument repair business and you cannot really do a good job with a Dremel, I use a foredom flex shaft tool and I can only polish small items with it, for larger items I use a Baldor 8 inch buffer with either white or red rouge. You must have experience to use these or you can turn your item your polishing into a missile and hurt your self! Do not ask how I know!If you could find a leather wheel for a dremel it may work better than felt or cotton as both or these will leave buffing marks.

October 2, 2008, 09:03 PM	#8
drail Junior member Join Date: February 2, 2008 Posts: 3,150	Yeah, forget the Dremel for polishing a frame or barrel. Either successively finer grades of sandpaper up to 1500 to 2000 grit or the buffer. And a buffer really does make an excellent missile launcher. Use eye protection and think about which way it's going to go if you slip. The buffer is the most dangeous thang in my shop.

October 2, 2008, 09:12 PM	#9
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,987	Not only is it dangerous, a buffer can really mess a gun up unless you know what you are doing with it. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

October 3, 2008, 03:01 AM	#10
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,289	My employer once sent me to understudy a master mold polisher.This gentleman was polishing dies for striking coins at a mint while I was with him. I cannot approach teaching you in this forum. I can tell you the higher the polish,the more imperfections will show.I can tell you that trueness of form is critical.By using "soft" processes,you will alter trueness of form.You will make high and low spots,ripples,etc.As light hits these,the highlights will emphasize this variation,and I would prefer an as cast matte finish. I used stones called "puddle stones".They resembled a Japanese water stone in a way.The graded grit is sifted into water and allowed to settle,then baked. Most commercial polishing stones (Gesswein,DME) are made by a press and vitrify process,and the issue is as the stone breaks down,a chunk of 3 or 5 grits will cut diggers in the finish. What you might try is go to a machinist suppy like MSC and order some mold finishing diamond lap compound. Cut some pieces of hard maple to use like files.They can be formed a bit.Use the grit with the maple like a file. If you change to a finer grit,change direction,and work till there are no scratches. If you can settle for a soft lustre,a very fine Scotchbrite is quite forgiving,but,only as a quick finishing touch. The greatest part of the work must be done by some form of straight tool,like a sanding block.You want to cut off the high spots while you leave the low spots alone. I have an interesting tool called a DME "Jigger".A pistol shaped affair that makes a 0-10,000 stroke a minute reciprocal motion,controlled by a foot rheostat.It takes various stone holders and picks and laps.My little cable rotary tool is 1/2 hp 10,000 rpm with a 1/4 collet.I cut buffs with a hole saw,2 or 3 in in dia from 1 " thick rock hard felt and put them on a mandrel.I use 1 in dia Tampico end brushes.These are large enough to work flat surfaces.Holes are filled with brass plugs to not wash,etc. Once again,have fun,but polish with something backed by wood,or a red eraser,or use polishing stones to respect the original form of the part.

October 3, 2008, 12:42 PM	#12
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,987	No it won't. Just wipe it off and oil the surface. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

October 3, 2008, 02:27 PM	#13
brickeyee Senior Member Join Date: December 29, 2004 Posts: 3,351	The oil will be the only thing preventing the carbon steel from rusting.

October 3, 2008, 05:43 PM	#14
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,987	The steel wool is softer than the gun. Any residue will simply wipe off. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

October 4, 2008, 01:31 PM	#15
brickeyee Senior Member Join Date: December 29, 2004 Posts: 3,351	Not true. It is not just about hardness, but about the bonding of one type of steel to another.

October 4, 2008, 01:36 PM	#16
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,987	OK. After 35 years, I haven't seen it. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

November 9, 2008, 03:17 PM	#17
Snake.45 Junior Member Join Date: February 27, 2008 Posts: 2	Wenol and a tshirt is what i use on my stainless guns. Wenol is the best IMO.

November 23, 2008, 01:46 PM	#18
Theojt Junior Member Join Date: March 9, 2006 Posts: 14	For internal components, I have scavenged some ceramic from old, unusable electronic equipment. Look for Integrated Circuits (IC's) that come in various rectangular sizes - must be ceramic, not plastic as found in newer equipment. Some of them seem to be finer cutting than others so I had a small collection. Pull the IC out of the equipment (if socket mounted) or desolder it. Dremel off the legs and mount it onto something suitable as a handle. I just used them as is however. Polishing is a very slow process as mentioned but if you can find these, they work pretty sweet. Obvious disclaimers about messing around inside electronic gear apply!