Silver Solder!!??

Spyderman · December 17, 1999, 04:48 PM

Okay, here's the deal... I picked up a Mossberg Ghost Ring Sight kit for the Model 500 that I've had for several years now. In order to install it, I have to drill and tap three holes in the receiver, and "silver solder" the front sight on to the barrel. Now, drilling and tapping is fairly straight forward, but what would I need to do the soldering? I'm guessing there are specific items used for this. I was gonna just pay a local 'smith to install it, but he wanted $90 for the complete install. The kit only cost me $60! Not to mention that he said I would have it back in about 8-10 weeks. NOT ACCEPTABLE. There aren't very many 'smiths in my area (or at least that I know of) that are willing to do this, so I figured that for $90, I could buy the tools/supplies that I need to do it myself. Any ideas or help would be cool, or if you know of a good 'smith I could send it to that wouldn't take a year to complete it, let me know... Thanks in advance.
-Spyderman

**4V50 Gary** · December 17, 1999, 06:46 PM

If I didn't know how to do it myself, I'd offer a friendly jeweler $10 to do it. The important thing is to ensure that the front sight isn't canted.

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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt

DeBee · December 17, 1999, 08:22 PM

Although silver soldering SOUNDS easy like something you do under the kitchen sink, it's alot harder than it looks...

You have to set up a jig to hold the barrel and the sight square and level- a vice grips doesn't do it. You have to have the oxyacetylene torch to melt high temp silver solder. You have to have metal to metal contact- no finish- degreased and possibly etched with acid. You need flux to make the solder flow and antiflux so the solder won't stick where you don't want it. And last, you need silver solder which ain't cheap... get the powdered prefluxed stuff.

Spend most of the afternoon jigging the sight so at the critical point when the solder melts, it doesn't slip to one side or the other and an even distribution of solder extends all the way around the sight with no gaps... plan on refinishing the barrel and sight. Startin' to get the picture???

I can show you my English style Oberndorf Mauser copy I made with a 24" barrel which is now a 22" barrel because I HAD TO HAVE silver soldered front sights in case the dangerous game I hunt in my den charged at me...

Recommedation: Drill and tap the front sight also. I believe the thickness of the barrel wall will take three or so threads. You are also more likely of getting a square sight picture. My Custom Combat 870 is set up with the MMC Ghost Ring and Williams Shorty Ramp drilled and tapped through the bore with two drops of Black Max adhesive under the ramp for insurance. Naturally, the screw is rebated a bit so it's just less than flush with the bore...

Also, Scattergun Technologies epoxies their front sight to the barrel. Goto Hans Vangs website for farther info- (search Vang).

George Stringer · December 18, 1999, 12:07 AM

Spyderman, for your front try Swift's 95 solder paste. I haven't had a front sight come off yet on anything I've used it on. You only need a propane torch and follow the directions. You can use a slow setting epoxy to hold the rear sight in place. A little longer set up time will allow you to move it around until you are satisified with position and level. Then just use the sight itself as the jig to drill the holes. George

James K · December 18, 1999, 12:55 AM

Hi, Spyderman and George,

I think even with just a propane torch you should use Brownells heat control paste to keep from messing up the blue and to keep from getting solder where you don't want it.

Jim

Spyderman · December 22, 1999, 02:33 PM

Thanks guys for all the ideas. At this point, the epoxy thing is lookin pretty good. I'm gonna go check on that stuff that scattergun uses. I wonder if i still need to remove the blueing for the epoxy to stick right? If you have any other ideas, let me know... Thanks again.
-Spyderman

December 17, 1999, 04:48 PM	#1
Spyderman Member Join Date: December 14, 1999 Location: N.E. Colorado Posts: 62	Okay, here's the deal... I picked up a Mossberg Ghost Ring Sight kit for the Model 500 that I've had for several years now. In order to install it, I have to drill and tap three holes in the receiver, and "silver solder" the front sight on to the barrel. Now, drilling and tapping is fairly straight forward, but what would I need to do the soldering? I'm guessing there are specific items used for this. I was gonna just pay a local 'smith to install it, but he wanted $90 for the complete install. The kit only cost me $60! Not to mention that he said I would have it back in about 8-10 weeks. NOT ACCEPTABLE. There aren't very many 'smiths in my area (or at least that I know of) that are willing to do this, so I figured that for $90, I could buy the tools/supplies that I need to do it myself. Any ideas or help would be cool, or if you know of a good 'smith I could send it to that wouldn't take a year to complete it, let me know... Thanks in advance. -Spyderman

December 17, 1999, 06:46 PM	#2
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,841	If I didn't know how to do it myself, I'd offer a friendly jeweler $10 to do it. The important thing is to ensure that the front sight isn't canted. ------------------ Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt

December 17, 1999, 08:22 PM	#3
DeBee Senior Member Join Date: October 5, 1999 Posts: 408	Although silver soldering SOUNDS easy like something you do under the kitchen sink, it's alot harder than it looks... You have to set up a jig to hold the barrel and the sight square and level- a vice grips doesn't do it. You have to have the oxyacetylene torch to melt high temp silver solder. You have to have metal to metal contact- no finish- degreased and possibly etched with acid. You need flux to make the solder flow and antiflux so the solder won't stick where you don't want it. And last, you need silver solder which ain't cheap... get the powdered prefluxed stuff. Spend most of the afternoon jigging the sight so at the critical point when the solder melts, it doesn't slip to one side or the other and an even distribution of solder extends all the way around the sight with no gaps... plan on refinishing the barrel and sight. Startin' to get the picture??? I can show you my English style Oberndorf Mauser copy I made with a 24" barrel which is now a 22" barrel because I HAD TO HAVE silver soldered front sights in case the dangerous game I hunt in my den charged at me... Recommedation: Drill and tap the front sight also. I believe the thickness of the barrel wall will take three or so threads. You are also more likely of getting a square sight picture. My Custom Combat 870 is set up with the MMC Ghost Ring and Williams Shorty Ramp drilled and tapped through the bore with two drops of Black Max adhesive under the ramp for insurance. Naturally, the screw is rebated a bit so it's just less than flush with the bore... Also, Scattergun Technologies epoxies their front sight to the barrel. Goto Hans Vangs website for farther info- (search Vang).

December 18, 1999, 12:07 AM	#4
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Spyderman, for your front try Swift's 95 solder paste. I haven't had a front sight come off yet on anything I've used it on. You only need a propane torch and follow the directions. You can use a slow setting epoxy to hold the rear sight in place. A little longer set up time will allow you to move it around until you are satisified with position and level. Then just use the sight itself as the jig to drill the holes. George

December 18, 1999, 12:55 AM	#5
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Hi, Spyderman and George, I think even with just a propane torch you should use Brownells heat control paste to keep from messing up the blue and to keep from getting solder where you don't want it. Jim

December 22, 1999, 02:33 PM	#6
Spyderman Member Join Date: December 14, 1999 Location: N.E. Colorado Posts: 62	Thanks guys for all the ideas. At this point, the epoxy thing is lookin pretty good. I'm gonna go check on that stuff that scattergun uses. I wonder if i still need to remove the blueing for the epoxy to stick right? If you have any other ideas, let me know... Thanks again. -Spyderman