brass or plated cases ?

[rebs]

which cases are better for reloading in 38 and 357, the brass or the plated ones ?

[Jimro]

From a ballistics perspective, it doesn't matter.

Nickel plating does shine up a lot quicker than heavily tarnished brass from an esthetic viewpoint, if that matters to you (it doesn't to me).

But in terms of ease of reloading or cartridge performance? No difference.

Jimro

[rebs]

I was just curious since a friend gave me 500 45 acp cases, half are brass and the rest are plated.

[jmorris]

Nickel plated cases generally crack before non plated cases.

[serf 'rett]

Load 'em, shoot 'em.

Repeat as needed.

You will need to inspect the nickel plated cases. I don't use the cases when they start shedding the nickel plating.

[FlyFish]

I load brass and nickel-plated brass interchangeably in a number of different calibers. I've never noticed any difference in case life, though some claim that they've experienced shorter life with plated cases due to earlier case mouth splits. I have some Super Vel plated .357 brass that I've been loading for so long (admittedly with target-level loads) that the plating is starting to wear off. I did have a small batch of Remington plated brass once where the nickel started flaking off around the mouth with the first resizing, so I pitched those, but that's the only problem I've seen in about 40 years of reloading nickel-plated cases.

[dahermit]

which cases are better for reloading in 38 and 357, the brass or the plated ones ?

In 38 Special and .357 Magnum, Nickle plated cases will not last as long as unplated cases. They will split sooner. But that is not a reason for not using them. If free, use them until they split. However, if buying new (like from Starline), always buy unplated cases.

[rclark]

There really is only one reason for buying plated... And that is if you plan on keeping them in leather belt loops. Other than that, buy straight brass. Of course if you have them, just shoot 'em and load 'em until they fail... just as you would brass.

[rebs]

Thanks for the replies, I'll just loadem and shootem til they crack or flake

[howlnmad]

which cases are better for reloading in 38 and 357, the brass or the plated ones ?


The yellow brass. You should send any nickel plated brass to me for proper disposal.

Just kidding, load em and shoot em all.

[oldpapps]

Brass cases will turn green and stick in your cylinder a lot sooner than those 158 grain lead bullets will turn white and flake off. But, both will have to be driven out with a punch and mallet.

I know this to be true... Had to do it for an old traffic COP that didn't like the noise from guns. It WAS a 5 screw S&W Combat Masterpeice (pre Model 15).

Role em and shoot em. As stated above, non plated seems to last a little longer and plated looks nicer.

Enjoy,

OSOK

[Sevens]

There really is only one reason for buying plated... And that is if you plan on keeping them in leather belt loops.

I won't agree to this. That is a fine reason for buying nickel brass, but for certain, it's not the only advantage to it.

--if you want brass that is MUCH easier to clean (if, say, you don't tumble or don't wish to), nickel brass blows away yellow

--to expand on that, if you don't tumble or don't wish to, nickel brass is also easier to inspect visually, than yellow brass

--if you want easier loading in every revolver and easier ejection also, nickel plated brass is noticeably less resistant and will absolutely offer less friction in either direction

--for those who find a use for how their ammo looks, it's just more visually appealing and the look doesn't degrade over time

There is no doubt, none whatsoever in my experience, that nickel plated brass simply does not last as long as yellow brass. I'm certain of that, with most of my experience on that subject in .38 Special. So I tend to not want to pay any more money for them -- but I sure do like them.

If I was buying some oddball chambering that is pricey and I only need XX amount to last me a long time, I'm going yellow brass for sure. If I'm picking up used brass in a common caliber that is widely available, I'd prefer the nickel no doubt, but I wouldn't kick away any piece of yellow brass.

[snuffy]

Brass is no longer "electro-plated" with a layer of nickel. It's coated by a process called electroless nickel plating;

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electroless_nickel_plating

From the wiki link above;
Electroless nickel plating is an auto-catalytic reaction used to deposit a coating of nickel on a substrate. Unlike electroplating, it is not necessary to pass an electric current through the solution to form a deposit. This plating technique is to prevent corrosion and wear. EN techniques can also be used to manufacture composite coatings by suspending powder in the bath.

Electroless nickel plating has several advantages versus electroplating. Free from flux-density and power supply issues, it provides an even deposit regardless of workpiece geometry, and with the proper pre-plate catalyst, can deposit on non-conductive surfaces.

This means the entire case has a coating of nickel on/in it. Even down to the inside of the primer flash hole. It is extremely thin, it can be easily removed by excessive tumbling, or by using abrasives to polish a case.

Somebody is going to say it's so darned hard "it ruined my sizing die, or dulled the cutter on my trimmer". While it IS harder than bare brass, it's certainly not going to scratch heat treated tool steel used in non-carbide dies. If it indeed did dull a trimmer cutter, it was improperly heat treated or made too soft.

[CleanDean]

Nickle plating decreases a case to be loaded repeatedly. Better yet... the number of times, of sizing the nickled CASES will be a reduced number,... splitting will occur sooner