seat and crimp seperately

[rebs]

To seat and crimp seperately would you use a Lee taper crimp die or a Lee factory crimp die ? What is the difference between these two dies other than they both just crimp ?

[Unclenick]

The factory crimp adds a carbide ring at the bottom to ensure the whole round OD is narrow enough to feed reliably. The crimp ring inside it is a taper crimp, too. The Factory Crimp die adds a level of functional reliability insurance, therefore. On the occasion that you get extra thick brass or extra wide bullets that cause that ring to actually squeeze hard, I would not trust those rounds for match accuracy.

[rebs]

so you would use just a taper crimp die and not a factory crimp die, right ?

[tkglazie]

You would use whichever one you choose. Unclenick gave you the answer to the question between a taper crimp die and an FCD, which one you choose is a personal choice. You will not find a "right" answer to that question. Search this and any reloading site for the term "FCD" and you will see why.

Personally, I do not load a handgun cartridge without it. However, I do not load any oversized bullets that would be downsized in a FCD, either. I use mixed range brass and prefer the way the FCD "uniforms" my cartridges. Others see no point in using one. Each side of the yes/no FCD debate has valid points.

[hk33ka1]

For most of my pistol calibres I have the sizing/expanding/seating dies and seperate Lee FCD and Lee Taper crimp die giving me 5 dies to choose from.

Although the seater die can crimp if you want to I always crimp seperately (when I do crimp). I then choose from either FCD or Taper crimp.

[marvintm1]

As far as crimping separately... Its the best way. When you cimp/seat in the same die, the bullet never stops moving during crimp, and is forced harder against the crimp as the crimp develops. This shears the bullet into the crimp and puts a lot of force on the brass (case buldging). It sort of works well enough for the masses when adjusted right. Separate crimp is the best way as the bullet is stationary during the crimp, and you can adjust so much easier during a session when its only one die for one process.

Some sizing dies dont size down enough at the base of the brass to keep auto pistol actions happy. Most sizing dies put you about .001-.002 over factory. Like has been said, FCD is just a normal crimp die with a carbide sizing ring added at the bottom to give one more shot at sizing the base on the final stage (or the whole round on truly straight revolver brass). Do some tests before/after with calipers to see if a FDC its really doing anything. It really depends on what your feeding it from everything upstream.

I tried a Lee 9mm taper FCD and found it did not measurably alter the case one bit after being sized by my RCBS carbide full length die. My early non-carbide pistol dies did need the extra help of the FCD, and it would pull another .001 or better out of the brass, but not so with my RCBS sizer. Its good all by itself. Every sizing die is different.

In addition, the taper crimp in my Lee FCD was terrible compared to my Hornady taper crimp die (stand-alone crimp die). The lee taper crimp angle is just too steep. It was shearing a bevel on the edge of the case mouth and I could feel the burr and see with a 10x loupe. I swear it could roll crimp if cranked down. Not the case with my Hornady. It has a very shallow taper angle leaving a clean square edge on the case mouth for good headspacing just like a factory round.

If your gonna reload, get a good 8x to 10x loupe for $10, it can be very revealing.

[marvintm1]

Just to clarify,
Taper crimp or FCD have nothing to do with each other...by definition.

The cartrige itself typically dictates if Taper crimp or Roll crimp is prescribed. A Lee FCD is usually made with whateverthe normal crimp type is for the particular cartrige the die is for.

So 9mm and 40cal require a taper crimp, headspacing on the case mouth. Either a lee FCD (tapered by default) or any other taper crimp die will both work.

A 38/357 could be EITHER taper or roll crimp. While this cartrige is designed as roll crimp by default, taper crimp is a workable alternative for some applications. A Lee FCD in 38/357 will ship as Roll Crimp as the cartrige default crimp type (Lee doesn't show any options for taper crimp in 38/357 FCD).

Thanks.

[joneb]

I have been reloading for handguns for about 25-30yrs Never used a FCD and never saw a need for it. The FCD maybe of use for someone loading with out of spec components or miss adjusted dies, but if it works for you then go for it.

[paw080]

Here's another vote for the Hornady taper crimp die. I tried the Lee FCD die
but the crimp section produced lousy crimps.

Tony

[CrustyFN]

I have been reloading for handguns for about 25-30yrs Never used a FCD and never saw a need for it. The FCD maybe of use for someone loading with out of spec components or miss adjusted dies, but if it works for you then go for it.

If you case gauge your ammo after you are done loading you might have a need for the FCD. I use the post sizing ring in the FCD as a case gauge, If it gets post sized it gets set to the side and if it doesn't then it goes in the ammo box. I know guys that spend almost as much time case gauging ammo as they do loading. I have never had an ammo malfunction using this method.