Steaming up dings

Fred S · July 3, 1999, 06:47 PM

I'm refurbashing an old Turk Mauser. I have saned the stock down to redo it. I've heard you can steam up the dings, dents etc. Anyone know how to do this?

Fred

Jim V · July 3, 1999, 08:18 PM

Yes, It is simple or at least my method is simple and works for me. Wet towel, hot iron, place towel on ding, place iron on towel, let steam, remove iron, remove towel and check ding. Repeat as needed.

------------------
Ne Conjuge Nobiscum
"If there be treachery, let there be jehad!"

buzz riley · July 3, 1999, 08:29 PM

I'm sure there are better or more refined ways to do this, but this has worked for me. Heat up your clothes iron to a pretty high heat, about 3/4 on mine. I always take an old washcloth and wet it, wringing out some of the water. It works better if it's just soaked, but not dripping wet. The moisture in the cloth is where you get your steam, and it dries out as you use it. I double it if it's a thin cloth, and place it over the ding. Place your iron over the cloth, using as small amount of the iron's surface as necessary. I use only the tip on most small dings. Keep trying this until you get the wood to expand, keeping a wet section of the cloth in use at all times. I've never had a problem with the wood getting burned. This works on most dings, and even a few gouges.
*I wouldn't have suggested this on a finished stock with any coating. You shouldn't have any problem on a sanded one.

------------------
Blessed are the peacemakers: for they shall be called the children of God. Matthew 5:9

George Stringer · July 3, 1999, 11:48 PM

Fred, the way I do it works on sanded or finished stocks as long as the wood fibers aren't broken. If they are you won't be able to bring them up. I use a sauce pan about 1/2 full of water, cover tightly with aluminum foil, prick a pin hole in the center and put on stove or hot plate. When the water begins to boil a jet of steam will come up through the pin hole. Hold the damged area over the steam about an inch away for a few seconds and that does it. If you hold it there for more than 10 seconds and it doesn't raise the dent you have broken fibers and will have to fill it. Brownells (515) 623-5401 sells shellac sticks that fill these areas nicely. They come in different shades so you can match to whatever shade your finished stock will be. George

Reloader · July 3, 1999, 11:55 PM

Brownell's sells an iron for that exact purpose. www.brownells.com

flatlander · July 4, 1999, 07:46 AM

My DCM M1 had a lot of dings; looked like it had been dropped on a graveled range. I used the wet cloth/hot iron method described above, but only after I had stripped as much of the oil soaked finish off the stock as I could using furnature stripper and an old toothbrush. Sometimes it helps to use a straight pin on deep dents - I just poked the pin lightly into the center of the deeper dents that had refused to come up with the steam, and steamed again.

Fred S · July 4, 1999, 08:45 AM

To All:

Thanks for the replies!

I just started collecting last summer. I bought this beat up Mauser without knowing much (paid only $50 for it). I've acquired much nicer rifles since but some need some stock work. I decided to use the Mauser as a practice refurbishment project. My plan is to make it look as good as I can get it. The barrel is pretty worn lots of pitting and darkness from corrosive ammo, but rifeling is still there.

Thanks again for the advice.

Fred

July 3, 1999, 06:47 PM	#1
Fred S Senior Member Join Date: July 2, 1999 Location: New Baltimore, MI Posts: 569	I'm refurbashing an old Turk Mauser. I have saned the stock down to redo it. I've heard you can steam up the dings, dents etc. Anyone know how to do this? Fred

July 3, 1999, 08:18 PM	#2
Jim V Senior Member Join Date: January 31, 1999 Location: SE Michigan - USA Posts: 4,038	Yes, It is simple or at least my method is simple and works for me. Wet towel, hot iron, place towel on ding, place iron on towel, let steam, remove iron, remove towel and check ding. Repeat as needed. ------------------ Ne Conjuge Nobiscum "If there be treachery, let there be jehad!"

July 3, 1999, 08:29 PM	#3
buzz riley Member Join Date: January 27, 1999 Location: KY Posts: 47	I'm sure there are better or more refined ways to do this, but this has worked for me. Heat up your clothes iron to a pretty high heat, about 3/4 on mine. I always take an old washcloth and wet it, wringing out some of the water. It works better if it's just soaked, but not dripping wet. The moisture in the cloth is where you get your steam, and it dries out as you use it. I double it if it's a thin cloth, and place it over the ding. Place your iron over the cloth, using as small amount of the iron's surface as necessary. I use only the tip on most small dings. Keep trying this until you get the wood to expand, keeping a wet section of the cloth in use at all times. I've never had a problem with the wood getting burned. This works on most dings, and even a few gouges. *I wouldn't have suggested this on a finished stock with any coating. You shouldn't have any problem on a sanded one. ------------------ Blessed are the peacemakers: for they shall be called the children of God. Matthew 5:9

July 3, 1999, 11:48 PM	#4
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	Fred, the way I do it works on sanded or finished stocks as long as the wood fibers aren't broken. If they are you won't be able to bring them up. I use a sauce pan about 1/2 full of water, cover tightly with aluminum foil, prick a pin hole in the center and put on stove or hot plate. When the water begins to boil a jet of steam will come up through the pin hole. Hold the damged area over the steam about an inch away for a few seconds and that does it. If you hold it there for more than 10 seconds and it doesn't raise the dent you have broken fibers and will have to fill it. Brownells (515) 623-5401 sells shellac sticks that fill these areas nicely. They come in different shades so you can match to whatever shade your finished stock will be. George

July 3, 1999, 11:55 PM	#5
Reloader Senior Member Join Date: December 29, 1998 Location: Onalaska Tx, USA Posts: 116	Brownell's sells an iron for that exact purpose. www.brownells.com

July 4, 1999, 07:46 AM	#6
flatlander Senior Member Join Date: June 16, 1999 Posts: 120	My DCM M1 had a lot of dings; looked like it had been dropped on a graveled range. I used the wet cloth/hot iron method described above, but only after I had stripped as much of the oil soaked finish off the stock as I could using furnature stripper and an old toothbrush. Sometimes it helps to use a straight pin on deep dents - I just poked the pin lightly into the center of the deeper dents that had refused to come up with the steam, and steamed again.

July 4, 1999, 08:45 AM	#7
Fred S Senior Member Join Date: July 2, 1999 Location: New Baltimore, MI Posts: 569	To All: Thanks for the replies! I just started collecting last summer. I bought this beat up Mauser without knowing much (paid only $50 for it). I've acquired much nicer rifles since but some need some stock work. I decided to use the Mauser as a practice refurbishment project. My plan is to make it look as good as I can get it. The barrel is pretty worn lots of pitting and darkness from corrosive ammo, but rifeling is still there. Thanks again for the advice. Fred