Question....

Mosin-Marauder · September 15, 2015, 08:31 AM

I finished the stock on my Remington 514, and after 1 coat I put Beeswax on it, would I be good just wiping it down with a damp cloth then letting it dry if I wanted to apply another coat of the TruOil? Or would the beeswax not affect one or two more coats?

briandg · September 15, 2015, 09:38 AM

bees wax? My suggestion would be to use 0000 steel wool with mineral spirits to scour off the wax. Do that two or three times. Then, you should be good to go, adding as many coats of tru oil as you want. I think the stuff works nicely creating a good glossy finish, and rubbing it down with 0000 steel wool gives it a good sheen.

Dave P · September 15, 2015, 09:56 AM

I agree with Brian. Clean all the wax off, and do the truoil routine. Great stuff.

Then, it that is too glossy for you, gently steel wool again, and use carnuba floor wax paste to give it a wonderful sheen.

T. O'Heir · September 16, 2015, 12:54 PM

You'll need to remove the bees wax before any other finish goes on. Shouldn't require 0000 steel wool to do though. 1/2 cup white vinegar and 1/2 cup water in a wee bowl and applied in the direction of the wood grain using a clean, lint-free cloth, then rinsed off will do.

Tony Z · September 18, 2015, 05:24 AM

It will take some work to get the bee's wax off, but it's got to be gone!

The stocks I've refinished with Tru-Oil have been from bare wood: slightly dampen the wood to raise fibers, sand off, soak in Tru-Oil, buff off with 0000 steel wool (get good stuff, not the Wally-World brand as it typically has traces of oil in it from manufacturing that will contaminate your finish). Keep repeating for at least 3 or 4 more applications.

The result is a satin smooth deep sheen and the more coats you put on the deeper it will appear BUT they key is the first step with raising the grain and smoothing it off.

A nice thing about an oil finish, is that is is repairable should the stock be damaged, simply by smoothing damaged area and re-applying Tru-Oil. A film finish, such as a varnish, is difficult at best to accomplish this.

Scorch · September 18, 2015, 02:24 PM

TruOil will not stick to wax, so the beeswax has to come off if you want to add more finish (mineral spirits will remove wax very nicely). Or you can just build up coats of beeswax on the stock, it will work OK as a stock finish.

September 15, 2015, 08:31 AM	#1
Mosin-Marauder Senior Member Join Date: April 18, 2014 Location: North Carolina Posts: 2,320	Question.... I finished the stock on my Remington 514, and after 1 coat I put Beeswax on it, would I be good just wiping it down with a damp cloth then letting it dry if I wanted to apply another coat of the TruOil? Or would the beeswax not affect one or two more coats? __________________ Proud owner of three (four-ish) pieces of history! K-31, Mosin-Nagant M91/30, M24/47 Mauser, Norinco SKS. "You might as well appeal against a thunderstorm..." William Tecumseh Sherman

September 15, 2015, 09:56 AM	#3
Dave P Senior Member Join Date: August 16, 1999 Location: North Florida Posts: 1,346	I agree with Brian. Clean all the wax off, and do the truoil routine. Great stuff. Then, it that is too glossy for you, gently steel wool again, and use carnuba floor wax paste to give it a wonderful sheen. __________________ I think this country is screwed.

September 16, 2015, 12:54 PM	#4
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	You'll need to remove the bees wax before any other finish goes on. Shouldn't require 0000 steel wool to do though. 1/2 cup white vinegar and 1/2 cup water in a wee bowl and applied in the direction of the wood grain using a clean, lint-free cloth, then rinsed off will do. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

September 18, 2015, 02:24 PM	#6
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	TruOil will not stick to wax, so the beeswax has to come off if you want to add more finish (mineral spirits will remove wax very nicely). Or you can just build up coats of beeswax on the stock, it will work OK as a stock finish. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

September 15, 2015, 09:38 AM	#2
briandg Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2010 Posts: 5,468	bees wax? My suggestion would be to use 0000 steel wool with mineral spirits to scour off the wax. Do that two or three times. Then, you should be good to go, adding as many coats of tru oil as you want. I think the stuff works nicely creating a good glossy finish, and rubbing it down with 0000 steel wool gives it a good sheen.

September 18, 2015, 05:24 AM	#5
Tony Z Senior Member Join Date: September 29, 2013 Location: North Central Pennsyltucky Posts: 749	It will take some work to get the bee's wax off, but it's got to be gone! The stocks I've refinished with Tru-Oil have been from bare wood: slightly dampen the wood to raise fibers, sand off, soak in Tru-Oil, buff off with 0000 steel wool (get good stuff, not the Wally-World brand as it typically has traces of oil in it from manufacturing that will contaminate your finish). Keep repeating for at least 3 or 4 more applications. The result is a satin smooth deep sheen and the more coats you put on the deeper it will appear BUT they key is the first step with raising the grain and smoothing it off. A nice thing about an oil finish, is that is is repairable should the stock be damaged, simply by smoothing damaged area and re-applying Tru-Oil. A film finish, such as a varnish, is difficult at best to accomplish this.