S & W K22 ??

kpmunt · April 6, 2009, 09:21 AM

Yesterday my son and I had the opportunity to shoot a couple of pistols my Dad has owned for years. We had an issue with his K22 which is prompting me to do some research and join this site to tap into your wisdom. Thanks in advance.

Here's the problem: after a number of rounds are fired (maybe 50 ish) the cylinder becomes increasingly balky at turning normally. Aiding it with your thumb gets it to turn fine as you pull the hammer back.

This pistol has always had this problem but since it is only used very sparingly nothing has ever been done to correct it.

Thoughts?

FlyFish · April 6, 2009, 09:42 AM

Barrel-cylinder gap may be too tight - powder fouling in there can inhibit cylinder rotation. You can check it with a set of automotive feeler gauges. A couple of thousandths is usually considered the minimum for free operation. Or, when you have the binding, simply try cleaning the face of the cylinder and the back of the barrel extension with some solvent. If that frees things up then you've found your problem. If so, it's a simple and inexpensive fix (by a competent gunsmith, that is).

kraigwy · April 6, 2009, 10:12 AM

I use to have the same problem with my Smith Model 18.

What happens the grease, gunk, or what have you gets down the crane/ejector rod.

You can find cleaner ammo. I also found a shot of Liquid Wrinch squirted down the ejector rod area kepts it loosened up.

Cleaner ammo is the best bet but you still need a penitrating oil. Rem Oil is also pretty good.

kpmunt · April 6, 2009, 02:47 PM

Thanks guys.

I'll look into the tolerance this evening. I'll also look at lubing the ejector rod as well. Seems to operate freely but obviously doesn't take much to gum things up.

Casimer · April 6, 2009, 07:34 PM

My Model 17 is generally tight - tight cylinder gap, chambers, lock-up. I've had to be deliberate about the ammo I use. Otherwise I'll have issues with the cylinder rotation and extraction due to build-up.

A bronze brush will remove soot from the cylinder face and the mouth of the forcing cone, without damaging the bluing.

And your extractor rod is tight - right?

If this gets loose it will back-out and cause the cylinder to bind.

James K · April 6, 2009, 09:21 PM

Also check to make sure the extractor rod has not unscrewed itself and is binding. If there is a cutdown ring behind the checkered end, the rod has left hand threads and is less likely to bind, but it can.

Jim

Jim Watson · April 6, 2009, 10:11 PM

Clean out from under the extractor and the back of the star itself. It doesn't take many granules of unburnt powder in there to bind up cylinder rotation.

April 6, 2009, 09:21 AM	#1
kpmunt Junior Member Join Date: April 6, 2009 Posts: 4	S & W K22 ?? Yesterday my son and I had the opportunity to shoot a couple of pistols my Dad has owned for years. We had an issue with his K22 which is prompting me to do some research and join this site to tap into your wisdom. Thanks in advance. Here's the problem: after a number of rounds are fired (maybe 50 ish) the cylinder becomes increasingly balky at turning normally. Aiding it with your thumb gets it to turn fine as you pull the hammer back. This pistol has always had this problem but since it is only used very sparingly nothing has ever been done to correct it. Thoughts?

April 6, 2009, 10:12 AM	#3
kraigwy Senior Member Join Date: June 16, 2008 Location: Wyoming Posts: 11,061	I use to have the same problem with my Smith Model 18. What happens the grease, gunk, or what have you gets down the crane/ejector rod. You can find cleaner ammo. I also found a shot of Liquid Wrinch squirted down the ejector rod area kepts it loosened up. Cleaner ammo is the best bet but you still need a penitrating oil. Rem Oil is also pretty good. __________________ Kraig Stuart CPT USAR Ret USAMU Sniper School Distinguished Rifle Badge 1071

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April 6, 2009, 09:42 AM	#2
FlyFish Senior Member Join Date: January 20, 2009 Location: Overlooking the Baker River Valley Posts: 1,723	Barrel-cylinder gap may be too tight - powder fouling in there can inhibit cylinder rotation. You can check it with a set of automotive feeler gauges. A couple of thousandths is usually considered the minimum for free operation. Or, when you have the binding, simply try cleaning the face of the cylinder and the back of the barrel extension with some solvent. If that frees things up then you've found your problem. If so, it's a simple and inexpensive fix (by a competent gunsmith, that is).

April 6, 2009, 02:47 PM	#4
kpmunt Junior Member Join Date: April 6, 2009 Posts: 4	Thanks guys. I'll look into the tolerance this evening. I'll also look at lubing the ejector rod as well. Seems to operate freely but obviously doesn't take much to gum things up.

April 6, 2009, 07:34 PM	#5
Casimer Senior Member Join Date: April 23, 2007 Location: Pennsylvania, USA Posts: 1,918	My Model 17 is generally tight - tight cylinder gap, chambers, lock-up. I've had to be deliberate about the ammo I use. Otherwise I'll have issues with the cylinder rotation and extraction due to build-up. A bronze brush will remove soot from the cylinder face and the mouth of the forcing cone, without damaging the bluing. And your extractor rod is tight - right? If this gets loose it will back-out and cause the cylinder to bind.

April 6, 2009, 09:21 PM	#6
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Also check to make sure the extractor rod has not unscrewed itself and is binding. If there is a cutdown ring behind the checkered end, the rod has left hand threads and is less likely to bind, but it can. Jim

April 6, 2009, 10:11 PM	#7
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,528	Clean out from under the extractor and the back of the star itself. It doesn't take many granules of unburnt powder in there to bind up cylinder rotation.