BHP Trigger Job

johnwill · February 24, 2002, 09:47 PM

Does anyone have any experience with drop-in parts to improve the trigger on a BHP (FEG actually), or is this strictly a gunsmith job. My FEG shoots great, but the trigger breaks at over 7#, and that's just a bit heavy for my tastes. I'd like to get it down to around 3.5-4#, but I don't see any option other than a professional job. By the time I pay air shipping both ways, I'm into the trigger close to $200, I was hoping to avoid that.

John Bettendorf · February 24, 2002, 10:43 PM

Sorry, no such thing on an HP, you could install a spring kit
but it may make it worse as in lighter with excessive creep.

Recommend you ship to your favorite smith.

Rocklobster · March 1, 2002, 08:53 PM

I've had good results on my Hi-Powers with C&S's Commander-style hammer,wide trigger,and target grade spring kit.Takes about 3 pounds off the factory pull.

James K · March 1, 2002, 11:34 PM

Hi, Johnwill,

My experience with those FEGs is that they are all steel and nicely made, but they cut a lot of corners on interior finish. A lot of the parts have burrs or are very sharp (yes, I have the scars to prove it). The whole operation can be improved a lot just by taking the gun down and stoning everything lightly, including the sear and full cock hammer notch.

If that is the BHP copy with the mag safety, some folks remove them, but I won't do that on anyone else's gun, or recommend it. The safety can be smoothed to the point it won't bother anyone while still being functional.

DIY job? Sure, since you have some experience with how guns come apart and go together, I don't think there is anything you can't handle. Keep the Band-Aids handy.

Jim

johnwill · March 2, 2002, 10:51 AM

Jim,

The magazine disconnect is long gone, and it made a large improvement. I don't really consider that a safety anyway.

You have inspired me, I think I'll take a run at some light polishing, making sure I don't affect the sear engagement, and see if it improves it any. Right now, it breaks at about 7.5#, and that's just too stiff for a range gun. I like my SD guns to be around 5#, and target pistols below that, 3-4# is nice. I did have this one apart, and it was actually pretty nicely finished inside, kinda' surprised me, as I had heard several comments like yours.

railroader · March 2, 2002, 11:56 AM

Johnwill, I have an arcus clone. I also removed the mag safety, polished the sear and hammer and put in a lighter hammer spring. The lighter hammer definately brought the trigger pull weight down. I think it's a 26lb. Here's the link: http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/B...tml#1935Hammer

February 24, 2002, 10:43 PM	#2
John Bettendorf Member Join Date: February 17, 2002 Posts: 25	johnwill Sorry, no such thing on an HP, you could install a spring kit but it may make it worse as in lighter with excessive creep. Recommend you ship to your favorite smith.

February 24, 2002, 09:47 PM	#1
johnwill Senior Member Join Date: April 6, 2000 Location: PA Posts: 3,451	BHP Trigger Job Does anyone have any experience with drop-in parts to improve the trigger on a BHP (FEG actually), or is this strictly a gunsmith job. My FEG shoots great, but the trigger breaks at over 7#, and that's just a bit heavy for my tastes. I'd like to get it down to around 3.5-4#, but I don't see any option other than a professional job. By the time I pay air shipping both ways, I'm into the trigger close to $200, I was hoping to avoid that.

March 1, 2002, 08:53 PM	#3
Rocklobster Senior Member Join Date: October 11, 2001 Location: Georgia Posts: 188	I've had good results on my Hi-Powers with C&S's Commander-style hammer,wide trigger,and target grade spring kit.Takes about 3 pounds off the factory pull.

March 1, 2002, 11:34 PM	#4
James K Member In Memoriam Join Date: March 17, 1999 Posts: 24,383	Hi, Johnwill, My experience with those FEGs is that they are all steel and nicely made, but they cut a lot of corners on interior finish. A lot of the parts have burrs or are very sharp (yes, I have the scars to prove it). The whole operation can be improved a lot just by taking the gun down and stoning everything lightly, including the sear and full cock hammer notch. If that is the BHP copy with the mag safety, some folks remove them, but I won't do that on anyone else's gun, or recommend it. The safety can be smoothed to the point it won't bother anyone while still being functional. DIY job? Sure, since you have some experience with how guns come apart and go together, I don't think there is anything you can't handle. Keep the Band-Aids handy. Jim

March 2, 2002, 10:51 AM	#5
johnwill Senior Member Join Date: April 6, 2000 Location: PA Posts: 3,451	Jim, The magazine disconnect is long gone, and it made a large improvement. I don't really consider that a safety anyway. You have inspired me, I think I'll take a run at some light polishing, making sure I don't affect the sear engagement, and see if it improves it any. Right now, it breaks at about 7.5#, and that's just too stiff for a range gun. I like my SD guns to be around 5#, and target pistols below that, 3-4# is nice. I did have this one apart, and it was actually pretty nicely finished inside, kinda' surprised me, as I had heard several comments like yours.

March 2, 2002, 11:56 AM	#6
railroader Senior Member Join Date: February 8, 2000 Location: Tucson Arizona Posts: 1,756	Johnwill, I have an arcus clone. I also removed the mag safety, polished the sear and hammer and put in a lighter hammer spring. The lighter hammer definately brought the trigger pull weight down. I think it's a 26lb. Here's the link: http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/B...tml#1935Hammer