Rebluing old Ivar Johnson Shotgun Probs

marsbars · October 16, 2000, 02:13 AM

I started a little project on an old Ivar Johnson 12ga that was given to me. All of the metal parts were terribly rusted,so I stripped it down to bare metal. I got all of the essentials to reblue it and started step by step. However the darn thing just doesn't seem to want to take on the desired finish. Also in some parts, such as small patches on the reciever the bluing doesn't even so anything. Tips and suggestions would be appreciated.

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Cold Steel & Warm Plastic

**4V50 Gary** · October 16, 2000, 01:55 PM

On some of these old guns, the hot caustic bluing will not take and the finish can be splotchy. I'm not sure what bluing process you're using but I've been told that the slow rust bluing process (sweatbox) over a three day period may be better. It's not hard to do (I've done browning by that method) but is more labor intensive.

Basically, after the metal is finished (polished), it is degreased. Taking care not to contaminate the metal with oils (wear rubber gloves), a coating of blue is applied with a clean cotton swab and then gun is then placed into a sweat box for a day. The next day, the metal is carded and degreased. Another coat of bluing solution is applied and the gun is placed into the sweat box. The process is repeated until the desired finish is reached.

Gunslinger · October 16, 2000, 02:05 PM

I know it won't help you in bluing it but if it is any consolation I to have trouble with Iver Johhnson receivers. I collect old IJ single barrels (don't ask my why, I have no logical explaination) and blue/refinish a lot of guns. For what ever reason the IJ receivers are a bear. It may be something in the way they case hardened them.

The last one I did I said to heck with it and did a brushed chrome finish on the receiver. The gun looks great with a beautiful blued barrel and the light chrome receiver. DJ (Terriderri's son and TFL user name BigDawg) is refinishing another old IJ right now and we plan to try our hand at case hardening. I have been expermenting with case hardening the last couple of years and have had some success with small parts.

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Gunslinger

I was promised a Shortycicle and I want a Shortycicle!

Wallew · October 16, 2000, 02:44 PM

Generally, if the metal has a higher nickel content, it will be a bear to hot blue. I have had to take the hot tank up to almost 300 degrees (not recommended). I have had limited success. Some came out excellent. Several came out purple. Sheesh. Good luck. Sometimes, you can run the temp up and just leave them in for about an hour an you can get good results. Sometimes.

Note: if you are doing double barrels, you will need to consider rust bluing. A different method, where you use a caustic blue, wipe it on, drop it into the hot water and then wipe it off. Repeat until the double barrels are the color you want. If you hot blue double barrels, you run the risk of spranging the barrel from one another.

mikefoy · October 16, 2000, 04:56 PM

Here at school, we have had many of these old single shop shotguns with receivers that are impossable to get a good blue. Most of the time, we color case harden them. Usually come out very nice.

sh00ter · October 18, 2000, 12:21 PM

I blue them all the time !
I have an additive i use that makes the purple go away

marsbars · October 18, 2000, 12:26 PM

And praytell what is this additive that you use or are you keeping that a secret?

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Cold Steel & Warm Plastic

Alex Johnson · October 18, 2000, 10:42 PM

If the receiver was originally casehardened it may present problems to blue. I have never blued a casehardened receiver (having them re-cased looks more attractive) but I have blued some other casehardened parts these can usually be blued by either giving them a lite sandblasting, or soaking them in a mild acid solution for awhile to allow the metal to be etched. John Bivins recommended this method in one of his excellent articles on metal finishes and it seems to work well. This is with the rust blueing process and I don't know what its effects would be on a cold instant blue.

October 16, 2000, 02:13 AM	#1
marsbars Member Join Date: July 28, 2000 Location: Spokane Wa. Posts: 72	I started a little project on an old Ivar Johnson 12ga that was given to me. All of the metal parts were terribly rusted,so I stripped it down to bare metal. I got all of the essentials to reblue it and started step by step. However the darn thing just doesn't seem to want to take on the desired finish. Also in some parts, such as small patches on the reciever the bluing doesn't even so anything. Tips and suggestions would be appreciated. ------------------ Cold Steel & Warm Plastic

October 16, 2000, 01:55 PM	#2
4V50 Gary Staff Join Date: November 2, 1998 Location: Colorado Posts: 21,841	On some of these old guns, the hot caustic bluing will not take and the finish can be splotchy. I'm not sure what bluing process you're using but I've been told that the slow rust bluing process (sweatbox) over a three day period may be better. It's not hard to do (I've done browning by that method) but is more labor intensive. Basically, after the metal is finished (polished), it is degreased. Taking care not to contaminate the metal with oils (wear rubber gloves), a coating of blue is applied with a clean cotton swab and then gun is then placed into a sweat box for a day. The next day, the metal is carded and degreased. Another coat of bluing solution is applied and the gun is placed into the sweat box. The process is repeated until the desired finish is reached.

October 16, 2000, 02:05 PM	#3
Gunslinger Junior member Join Date: January 5, 1999 Location: Springfield, Missouri Posts: 2,105	I know it won't help you in bluing it but if it is any consolation I to have trouble with Iver Johhnson receivers. I collect old IJ single barrels (don't ask my why, I have no logical explaination) and blue/refinish a lot of guns. For what ever reason the IJ receivers are a bear. It may be something in the way they case hardened them. The last one I did I said to heck with it and did a brushed chrome finish on the receiver. The gun looks great with a beautiful blued barrel and the light chrome receiver. DJ (Terriderri's son and TFL user name BigDawg) is refinishing another old IJ right now and we plan to try our hand at case hardening. I have been expermenting with case hardening the last couple of years and have had some success with small parts. ------------------ Gunslinger I was promised a Shortycicle and I want a Shortycicle!

October 16, 2000, 02:44 PM	#4
Wallew Junior member Join Date: October 3, 1999 Posts: 910	Generally, if the metal has a higher nickel content, it will be a bear to hot blue. I have had to take the hot tank up to almost 300 degrees (not recommended). I have had limited success. Some came out excellent. Several came out purple. Sheesh. Good luck. Sometimes, you can run the temp up and just leave them in for about an hour an you can get good results. Sometimes. Note: if you are doing double barrels, you will need to consider rust bluing. A different method, where you use a caustic blue, wipe it on, drop it into the hot water and then wipe it off. Repeat until the double barrels are the color you want. If you hot blue double barrels, you run the risk of spranging the barrel from one another.

October 16, 2000, 04:56 PM	#5
mikefoy Junior Member Join Date: July 23, 2000 Location: Roxboro, nc Posts: 6	Here at school, we have had many of these old single shop shotguns with receivers that are impossable to get a good blue. Most of the time, we color case harden them. Usually come out very nice.

October 18, 2000, 12:21 PM	#6
sh00ter Junior member Join Date: October 5, 2000 Posts: 22	I blue them all the time ! I have an additive i use that makes the purple go away

October 18, 2000, 12:26 PM	#7
marsbars Member Join Date: July 28, 2000 Location: Spokane Wa. Posts: 72	And praytell what is this additive that you use or are you keeping that a secret? ------------------ Cold Steel & Warm Plastic

October 18, 2000, 10:42 PM	#8
Alex Johnson Senior Member Join Date: February 16, 2000 Location: Grand Forks, ND Posts: 812	If the receiver was originally casehardened it may present problems to blue. I have never blued a casehardened receiver (having them re-cased looks more attractive) but I have blued some other casehardened parts these can usually be blued by either giving them a lite sandblasting, or soaking them in a mild acid solution for awhile to allow the metal to be etched. John Bivins recommended this method in one of his excellent articles on metal finishes and it seems to work well. This is with the rust blueing process and I don't know what its effects would be on a cold instant blue.