Reloading 38 SP

[jeffk48867]

I just reloaded some 38's and used some input and advice i got from another thread i started. They shot fine ( I guess) I got a new Ruger SP 101 2.25 that I'm loading for. I got a box of Fiocchi target when i got the gun and fired maybe 30 of them. I was kind of surprised at the lack of accuracy at 7 to 10 yards compared to shooting my Glocks and Sig. The grouping was about 6" and all around there target which left me with nothing much I can focus on other than practice with the fire arm. I did notice that my first reloaded test batch of 10 rounds shot better than the factory stuff, which has been my experience with all of my guns and calibers.

I hear many of you talk about "Working up a round"
My question is: Without a Crono to have a velocity for comparison is there anything one looks for in that round other than maybe accuracy?

I have Arthritis in my hands and its pretty bad this winter. I shot my 1st 10 rounds and it really hurt like hell to shoot. I loaded a test batch to test.

(5) Xtreme 125 FP 4.4 gr Titegroup (the rounds that beat my hand up)
(10) same with 4.0 gr
(10) Xtreme 125 Gr HP with 4.0 gr Titegroup.

Will a half grain of powder make any difference in recoil?

Maybe that is one of the criteria i would load for, being reduced recoil for my hands.

Will loading for reduced recoil impact accuracy? I know there are many variables but any experience is greatly appreciated. I'm new to wheel gunning and am really enjoying the reading and learning.

One last question. I want a Ruger GP100 (Real Bad). I was thinking 6" barrel. What differences could I see for accuracy and recoil side by side against the SP101 2.25? (using same reloaded rounds)

Thanks in advance

[g.willikers]

Oh yes, a .4 grain difference is a lot for a handgun round.
Even half of that can be noticeable, especially for someone with sore hands and wrists.
Accuracy is not a reliable way to measure pressure.
Some of the characteristics of excessive pressure are over expansion and difficult ejection of the fired case, flat primers (maybe), and, with experience, the amount of recoil.
The trajectory and point of impact of the bullet on the target can be, too.
But all in all, the load data in the powder manufacturers' books and web sites can be a trusted guide.
One of the advantages of a revolver is the light loads that can be used.
Low recoil loads can be very accurate.
But they might require softer lead bullets to avoid leading problems.
Stay above the minimum published load data to avoid squib loads, and enjoy your wheel gun.
Successful reloading was done for centuries before the chronograph was invented.
But, with the low cost of getting one, why avoid using a very useful modern reloading tool?

[Gadawg88]

My question is: Without a Crono to have a velocity for comparison is there anything one looks for in that round other than maybe accuracy?

I don't own a chronograph mainly because I don't have a place to effectively use one. So, you don't need one to reload and work-up effective loads. The typical pistol work-up goes like this for me: find the starting and max load in your data, load 5 rounds at or just a hair above minimum then step up in small increments like 0.2 or 0.3 grains to near the max, loading 5 rounds at each step. Put each load in a ziploc bag and label. Shoot them from a bench rest and look for the most accurate load. if lower recoil trumps accuracy, then you may want to just load near the minimum.

	
	

			
				Will a half grain of powder make any difference in recoil?
			
		

Half a grain in 38 sp should be noticeable, but may depend on the particular pistol being used. Only way to know is to load some up and try them. Assuming you are using the X-Treme plated 125gn bullets, I would suggest that you start your work-up at the upper end of their published cast lead data (around 3.8gn, but verify yourself). Work up from there as needed.

Will loading for reduced recoil impact accuracy?

Probably. The lightest recoiling load may not be the most accurate load. But, if the lighter recoil allows you to shoot better because you don't flinch, then that is the way to go.

One last question. I want a Ruger GP100 (Real Bad). I was thinking 6" barrel. What differences could I see for accuracy and recoil side by side against the SP101 2.25? (using same reloaded rounds)

The longer barrel will typically improve accuracy, but may require a separate load work up to find the most accurate load for that gun. The heavier the gun, the less felt recoil all else equal.

Good luck with it.

[Nick_C_S]

Will a half grain of powder make any difference in recoil?

Like g.willikers said, yes. Absolutely. Especially with a 2.25" bbl gun.

Maybe that is one of the criteria I would load for, being reduced recoil for my hands.

Maybe. That's the beauty of handloading - you can customize your rounds to suit your needs.

Will loading for reduced recoil impact accuracy?

It can. But if the right bullet/powder combination is used for the application, it will usually yield an accurate product. Where problems tend to occur with low-recoil loadings is when a powder too slow for the application is used. You'll get inconsistent burns, and inconsistent results. Basically, the more you download, the faster the powder needs to be.

One last question. I want a Ruger GP100 (Real Bad). I was thinking 6" barrel. What differences could I see for accuracy and recoil side by side against the SP101 2.25? (using same reloaded rounds)

All the difference in the world

Your SP101 is a challenging gun to shoot for accuracy as it is - much less with arthritic hands. Assuming you can handle the extra weight, the GP100 is going to be a dream to shoot. You'd be amazed at how much less felt recoil there is. So much less in fact, that you may not need to reduce your loadings at all. You'll also find out just how accurate your handloaded ammo really is. You might also want to consider a 4.2" bbl. It will be lighter than the 6" and still be much more accurate and tame to shoot compared to the SP. Six-inchers are kind of front-heavy. Handle both if you can - it's all personal preference.

[PhantomI]

Titegroup is a fast powder and one of the most sensitive powders I load with. You will not see that kind of difference in recoil per tenth of grain in most other pistol powders. That being said, it is great powder to use. You need to find load that works for you. If you have access to PB, it's as easy on your hands as you will find for 38 Special loads.

Good luck,
Tom

[T. O'Heir]

Hi. Your arthritis(Mine's in my hip.) is going to give you grief with any load. Doubt a GP will make much, if any, difference. Heavier to start with, but, on the other hand, that will help reduce the felt recoil. Only ever used 148 grain WC's and Bullseye target loads out of my 4". Slightly bigger grip too, but you may find a 6" is very decidedly muzzle heavy. Maybe too much so with your hands. Go try one on for size anyway.
You will find a cast bullet has far less felt recoil as well. Tite-group max load is a fair bit less than a jacketed start load.
You do not need a chronograph for reloading. You're reloading for accuracy, not velocity. Chrono's have only become popular because the cost of 'em has dropped so much. Necessary they ain't.

[SSA]

I recommend you try different grips. Pachmayr Compacs or rubber Hogues.
And warm up your hand (heat, stretch, flex) before you grip your gun.
Speaking from personal experience here.

[Shootest]

but you may find a 6" is very decidedly muzzle heavy. Maybe too much so with your hands.

This is especially true with a GP 100. Even a 4 inch GP is muzzle heavy, with that full length large lug under the barrel and little steel in the grip. That is an intentional design by Ruger, in order to reduce muzzle clime with magnum loads.

[Paul B.]

I don't have the two handguns you mention nor do I use the powders you have. However I do shoot the S&W M60 snubbie which is a lighter weight gun than the SP101 and the S&W K-38 with 6" and another with 8 3/8" barrels. All are chambered to the .38 Spl.
My load for targets is either 2.7 gr. of Bullseye or 3.1 gr. of W231 and the Lyman #358495 wadcutter. Recoil is quite mild in the S&W M60 and almost neglible in the K-38. Use either load (charge) with a 125 gr. lead bullet and recoil would be even less. The load may not shoot to point of aim in your gun with the lighter weight bullet but you should be able to get decent groups without having as much pain. FWIW, that 148 gr. wadcutter load with Bullseye has been a standard .38 Spl. target load since Hector was a pup. It was the first load I ever used when I started handloading back in 1954.
A few years back I got into a smoking deal on some Winchester 148 gr. match grade .38 Spl. ammo, a whole case. My 3.1 gr. W231 load with my homemade cast bullets will outshoot that pricey factory ammo by a noticeable margin. That was a surprise.
Paul B.

[TimSr]

Sounds like you are looking to "work down" a load. Aside from accurracy, look for unburned powder residue and flakes, and generally dirtier burn conditions. Faster the powder burns, the better for low velocity short barrel loads. Also check the brass cases for black streaks on the outisde that indicate gas blowing by the brass. Soft lead bullets are your friend for low velocity loads, and hollow base wadcutters can get you the lightest loads with the highest degree of accurracy.

I have a 6" GP100, and a snubby, after shooting the snubby, you'll think the GP100 is a .22, when shooting the same ammo in it.