Cylinder Pin Lube....

Tanker6 · April 12, 2012, 11:36 AM

Ok, I didn't get much when I asked this before, but I did tack it onto my other thread about "nipple wrench success," so I decided to open another thread.

I shoot my 1858 Remmies in SASS/CAS events....well, I've done it twice so far, so I'm still learning.

I've used regular gun lube (Hoppe's) and Ballistol on my cylinder pins so far, but I'm unhappy with both. After only a few stages (cylinders), it starts to bind/gum up and I have to clean and relube.

I've heard others talk of using some sort of grease or thick lubricant on their cylinder pins which allows a shooter to put 6+ cylinders through without binding. I'd love to know what that lube is.

So, how 'bout it?

T6 a/k/a Chickahominy Charlie

pohill · April 12, 2012, 11:59 AM

I use the vegetable spray PAM on the cylinder pins of my Remingtons and on my Paterson. Works great. Less filling.

Doc Hoy · April 12, 2012, 12:08 PM

Douche it down with bore lube.

If you are permitted by the rules to wipe things down, that can be helpful.

51colt · April 12, 2012, 12:40 PM

If you use filler or wads and put a finger full of Crisco in each chamber before loading the balls you will never have to worry about the cylinder binding again or anything on your revolver getting fouled out. Adding 15% bees wax to Crisco is a good mix but straight Crisco or bore butter works.

arcticap · April 12, 2012, 02:37 PM

This thread suggests several greases that folks actually do use on their arbors:

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthrea...hlight=lithium

wittzo · April 12, 2012, 02:59 PM

I put a coat of synthetic gear lube on my arbor pins and cylinder pins and can shoot for several cylinders.

Hellgate · April 12, 2012, 09:34 PM

Tanker,
I posted on another site about using a drop of oil on the cylinder face/frame juncture after charging the chambers and that has worked for me without having to pull the cylinder and regrease the pin every stage or two. I don't like to get all messy & blackened so I do not pull the cylinders. I think it is a waste of time and dirty. That's my opinion so if someone doesn't mind doing that then more power to them but not for me. My Uberti Remingtons bind up and thus the oil drop at each charging. My Euroarms Remingtons (a pair of 44s and a pair of 36s) do not bind during an entire 6 stage match. Go figure. I think each gun and each manufacturer has different dimensions hence the common "YMMV". I put a lube wad under each ball and grease over each ball every time. It helps. Also shooting 20 grains powder vs 30 grains helps (30gr is much more fun when people ask if I can get any more powder in there). I put rotgut automotive bearing grease on the cylinder pin and back of the cylinder on all my C&Bs.

Hawg · April 12, 2012, 11:48 PM

A Windex spritz between stages ought to keep you going.

noelf2 · April 13, 2012, 12:15 PM

+1 for PAM

Doc Hoy · April 13, 2012, 12:17 PM

...as I said previously, but only so I don't have to take a different can, or tube along to the range.

Andy Griffith · April 13, 2012, 12:44 PM

Hmmm...

This thread got me to thinking.

The same lube fit for Colt clones may not be suitable for Remington clones.
I shoot far more Colt style revolvers with large arbors that have the serrations on them- and for those, Crisco works just fine. Maybe thin lubes, like Pam are better suited to the tighter tolerances of the Remington.

pohill · April 13, 2012, 01:29 PM

I use Crisco or Bore Butter on my Colts - they do not like PAM. PAM also does not work as a patch lube in a rifle. But in my Paterson and Remingtons, it works great on the arbor. I've also tried it as an over-the-ball spray and it works as well as Crisco or Bore Butter (both of which are practically gone after the first shot).

Fairshake · April 17, 2012, 08:14 AM

I'm a 100% black powder shooter and shoot at least 3 matches in SASS each month. I started with 45 Colt and now for the last few years use 44WCF guns.
My first shooting with BP was in 1970 when I worked in a gun store. I purchased a 44 Army and 36 Navy revolvers. I then started shooting the 50 cal Hawken.
I had a man tell me many years ago to use Mobil One Synthetic grease. It comes in 1 lb cans or tubes for the grease gun. I've used the same tube for over three years so it last.
If you have a removable bushing like some Colts then put the grease on it also. I lube the bushing and then the base pin itself. After doing so just wipe away all excess that will come out as these pieces are tight fits.
I have shot as many as 8 stages with no problems and my cylinders spinning the same as when I started.
It is a synthetic and has no effect with the BP as a regular lube would be a big no-no. Try it and you will become a true believer. Fairshake

sltm1 · April 17, 2012, 10:38 AM

If all else fail's swap out to a Rogers & Spencer....problem solved.

Tanker6 · April 20, 2012, 12:03 PM

Thanks for all the varied responses. I'm going to start trying some of them until I get one that works the way I'd like it to.

'ppreciate it!

T6 a/k/a Chickahominy Charlie

Hawg · April 20, 2012, 03:09 PM

Quote:

If you use filler or wads and put a finger full of Crisco in each chamber before loading the balls you will never have to worry about the cylinder binding again or anything on your revolver getting fouled out.

That's not been my experience. All you do is make a mess,

noelf2 · April 20, 2012, 03:50 PM

Well I use dried goat droppings between powder and ball. Stops chain fires, and I can shoot the crap out of it all day.

April 12, 2012, 11:36 AM	#1
Tanker6 Senior Member Join Date: October 21, 2010 Location: Texas Posts: 193	Cylinder Pin Lube.... Ok, I didn't get much when I asked this before, but I did tack it onto my other thread about "nipple wrench success," so I decided to open another thread. I shoot my 1858 Remmies in SASS/CAS events....well, I've done it twice so far, so I'm still learning. I've used regular gun lube (Hoppe's) and Ballistol on my cylinder pins so far, but I'm unhappy with both. After only a few stages (cylinders), it starts to bind/gum up and I have to clean and relube. I've heard others talk of using some sort of grease or thick lubricant on their cylinder pins which allows a shooter to put 6+ cylinders through without binding. I'd love to know what that lube is. So, how 'bout it? T6 a/k/a Chickahominy Charlie

April 12, 2012, 12:08 PM	#3
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	Or.... Douche it down with bore lube. If you are permitted by the rules to wipe things down, that can be helpful. __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath.

April 12, 2012, 02:37 PM	#5
arcticap Senior Member Join Date: March 15, 2005 Location: Central Connecticut Posts: 3,166	This thread suggests several greases that folks actually do use on their arbors: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthrea...hlight=lithium Last edited by arcticap; April 12, 2012 at 02:46 PM.

April 12, 2012, 09:34 PM	#7
Hellgate Senior Member Join Date: November 18, 2010 Location: Orygun Posts: 869	Tanker, I posted on another site about using a drop of oil on the cylinder face/frame juncture after charging the chambers and that has worked for me without having to pull the cylinder and regrease the pin every stage or two. I don't like to get all messy & blackened so I do not pull the cylinders. I think it is a waste of time and dirty. That's my opinion so if someone doesn't mind doing that then more power to them but not for me. My Uberti Remingtons bind up and thus the oil drop at each charging. My Euroarms Remingtons (a pair of 44s and a pair of 36s) do not bind during an entire 6 stage match. Go figure. I think each gun and each manufacturer has different dimensions hence the common "YMMV". I put a lube wad under each ball and grease over each ball every time. It helps. Also shooting 20 grains powder vs 30 grains helps (30gr is much more fun when people ask if I can get any more powder in there). I put rotgut automotive bearing grease on the cylinder pin and back of the cylinder on all my C&Bs. __________________ With over 15 perCUSSIN' revolvers, I've been called the Imelda Marcos of cap & ball. SASS#3302 (Life), SASS Regulator, NRA (Life), Dirty Gamey Bastards #129 Wolverton Mtn. Peacekeepers (WA), former Orygun Cowboy (Ranger, Posse from Hell)

April 13, 2012, 12:15 PM	#9
noelf2 Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2008 Location: Stuart, VA Posts: 2,473	+1 for PAM __________________ Liberty and freedom often offends those who understand neither.

April 12, 2012, 11:59 AM	#2
pohill Senior Member Join Date: December 27, 2005 Location: northeast Posts: 521	I use the vegetable spray PAM on the cylinder pins of my Remingtons and on my Paterson. Works great. Less filling.

April 12, 2012, 12:40 PM	#4
51colt Member Join Date: December 3, 2008 Posts: 50	If you use filler or wads and put a finger full of Crisco in each chamber before loading the balls you will never have to worry about the cylinder binding again or anything on your revolver getting fouled out. Adding 15% bees wax to Crisco is a good mix but straight Crisco or bore butter works.

April 12, 2012, 02:59 PM	#6
wittzo Member Join Date: February 10, 2010 Posts: 95	I put a coat of synthetic gear lube on my arbor pins and cylinder pins and can shoot for several cylinders.

April 12, 2012, 11:48 PM	#8
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,188	A Windex spritz between stages ought to keep you going.

April 13, 2012, 12:17 PM	#10
Doc Hoy Senior Member Join Date: October 24, 2008 Location: Naples, Fl Posts: 5,440	I use the same stuff I use for bore lube.... ...as I said previously, but only so I don't have to take a different can, or tube along to the range. __________________ Seek truth. Relax. Take a breath.

April 13, 2012, 12:44 PM	#11
Andy Griffith Senior Member Join Date: May 14, 2009 Location: Macon Co. NC Posts: 591	Hmmm... This thread got me to thinking. The same lube fit for Colt clones may not be suitable for Remington clones. I shoot far more Colt style revolvers with large arbors that have the serrations on them- and for those, Crisco works just fine. Maybe thin lubes, like Pam are better suited to the tighter tolerances of the Remington. __________________ Barney Fife: "Nip it, nip it, nip it!" Andy Griffith:"Oh now Barn'...." Last edited by Andy Griffith; April 13, 2012 at 01:43 PM.

April 13, 2012, 01:29 PM	#12
pohill Senior Member Join Date: December 27, 2005 Location: northeast Posts: 521	I use Crisco or Bore Butter on my Colts - they do not like PAM. PAM also does not work as a patch lube in a rifle. But in my Paterson and Remingtons, it works great on the arbor. I've also tried it as an over-the-ball spray and it works as well as Crisco or Bore Butter (both of which are practically gone after the first shot).

April 17, 2012, 08:14 AM	#13
Fairshake Member Join Date: August 2, 2009 Location: Livingston, La. about 20 miles East of Baton Rouge, Louisiana Posts: 30	Cylinder base pins I'm a 100% black powder shooter and shoot at least 3 matches in SASS each month. I started with 45 Colt and now for the last few years use 44WCF guns. My first shooting with BP was in 1970 when I worked in a gun store. I purchased a 44 Army and 36 Navy revolvers. I then started shooting the 50 cal Hawken. I had a man tell me many years ago to use Mobil One Synthetic grease. It comes in 1 lb cans or tubes for the grease gun. I've used the same tube for over three years so it last. If you have a removable bushing like some Colts then put the grease on it also. I lube the bushing and then the base pin itself. After doing so just wipe away all excess that will come out as these pieces are tight fits. I have shot as many as 8 stages with no problems and my cylinders spinning the same as when I started. It is a synthetic and has no effect with the BP as a regular lube would be a big no-no. Try it and you will become a true believer. Fairshake __________________ SASS Frontier Cartridge class, 100% BP Shooter,

April 17, 2012, 10:38 AM	#14
sltm1 Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 2009 Location: Idaho Posts: 353	If all else fail's swap out to a Rogers & Spencer....problem solved.

April 20, 2012, 12:03 PM	#15
Tanker6 Senior Member Join Date: October 21, 2010 Location: Texas Posts: 193	Thanks for all the varied responses. I'm going to start trying some of them until I get one that works the way I'd like it to. 'ppreciate it! T6 a/k/a Chickahominy Charlie

April 20, 2012, 03:50 PM	#17
noelf2 Senior Member Join Date: April 14, 2008 Location: Stuart, VA Posts: 2,473	Well I use dried goat droppings between powder and ball. Stops chain fires, and I can shoot the crap out of it all day. __________________ Liberty and freedom often offends those who understand neither.