Finishing a revolver kit gun

KeithR41 · April 25, 2007, 05:40 AM

My father recently gave me a semi-completed BP revolver that he has had for a number of years. I believe it's a 1861 Navy, .36 Cal. Steel frame, brass strap on the handle.

The pistol is assembled but was never blued or fired. I would like to finish the gun before I take it to the range.

The barrel is in good shape, just needs a little cleaning. My main question is about the receiver (frame?). Part of it has been polished and is smooth, however, a portion has not been touched and is rough. It almost feels like cast iron.

Does anybody have an idea how to smooth this part out so it will take a good finish?

My other question has to do with who manufatured the pistol. The only barrel markings are Black Powder Only, Made in Italy. Are there any hidden markings or proofs that would give more info?

Thanks in advance.

KeithR41

mykeal · April 25, 2007, 06:40 AM

I'm assuming the frame is unfinished "white" steel and not case hardened. If so, finish the rough metal with sandpaper and elbow grease; I'd start with 220 and polish with 400. You are going to want to finish the metal at some point; there are many choices as to the process. The easiest, of course, is to have a gunsmith hot blue it. Doing it yourself is not difficult and infinitely more satisfying, but can be daunting. There are many threads on this and other forums, as well as other internet sites, on how to accomplish it. The biggest issue will be choosing the process: hot bluing, cold bluing, rust browning, "french" gray, etc, etc. Everyone has their favorite. Cold bluing is the easiest and least durable, hot bluing is best left to a pro with proper equipment and the others fall in between.

Manufacturer's id stamps - usually in one or all of three places: bottom of the barrel under the loading lever, side of the frame above the trigger and/or the cylinder face. May also be on the bottom of the frame in front of the trigger guard, or the trigger guard itself. Pedersoli is lower case letters dp inside an oval; Uberti is the letter U inside what looks like a gun muzzle; Pietta is the upper case letters FAP inside a diamond shape and may include the name "F.LLI PIETTA ITALY" next to it; Palmetto is a palm tree inside a circle; Armi San Marco or Euroarms will be the letters DGG, maybe inside a circle, with the two G's one above the other in front of the D; Armi Sport is the capital letters AC inside a circle.

There should also be a date stamp consisting of two capital letters inside a square, usually with the proof marks on the frame. This may also be roman numerals, depending on the age of the gun. It started with X in 1954, and went up to XXVI in 1970, then switched to XX7 in '71, XX8 in '72, XX9 in '73 and XXX in '74. The letters started in 1975 with AA; AG, AJ, AK, AO, AQ, AR, AV, AW, AX, and AY were all skipped so AZ is 1990. BA was 1991; BE, BG, BJ, BK, BO, BQ, and BR were skipped so BT was 2003. My table stops there, but if they kept to the same scheme after that BU would be 2004, BZ is 2005 and 2006 would be CA.

There should be two Italian proof marks, always together: one is the letters PN with a five pointed star surrounded by a garland above the letters, the other looks like a coat of arms with that same star/garland above it.

Old Dragoon · April 25, 2007, 02:32 PM

DGG is ARMI SAN PAOLO and Euroarms, not Armi San Marco!

ASM is the marking for Armi San Marco.

l.cutler · April 25, 2007, 06:37 PM

Just a note, when finishing the steel, wrap the sandpaper around a file to keep flat surfaces flat and level. Just using your hand will result in dips and waves.

mykeal · April 25, 2007, 09:25 PM

Old Dragoon - you are correct, of course. My finger slipped one line...

KeithR41 · April 30, 2007, 02:34 AM

Mykeal, thanks for the info. I've made some progress on my pistol. I'll probably finish polishing tomorrow they I'll blue it.

I did find DGG on the right side of pistol where the seating rod connects. Next to it are the letters AI. If I read your reply right that means my pistol was made in 1980. Hopefully it will be in shooting condition soon.

Thanks again, KeithR41

April 25, 2007, 05:40 AM	#1
KeithR41 Member Join Date: April 25, 2007 Location: Southern Oregon Posts: 20	Finishing a revolver kit gun My father recently gave me a semi-completed BP revolver that he has had for a number of years. I believe it's a 1861 Navy, .36 Cal. Steel frame, brass strap on the handle. The pistol is assembled but was never blued or fired. I would like to finish the gun before I take it to the range. The barrel is in good shape, just needs a little cleaning. My main question is about the receiver (frame?). Part of it has been polished and is smooth, however, a portion has not been touched and is rough. It almost feels like cast iron. Does anybody have an idea how to smooth this part out so it will take a good finish? My other question has to do with who manufatured the pistol. The only barrel markings are Black Powder Only, Made in Italy. Are there any hidden markings or proofs that would give more info? Thanks in advance. KeithR41

April 25, 2007, 09:25 PM	#5
mykeal Senior Member Join Date: October 8, 2006 Location: Northern Michigan Posts: 2,772	Oops Old Dragoon - you are correct, of course. My finger slipped one line...

April 30, 2007, 02:34 AM	#6
KeithR41 Member Join Date: April 25, 2007 Location: Southern Oregon Posts: 20	Making headway Mykeal, thanks for the info. I've made some progress on my pistol. I'll probably finish polishing tomorrow they I'll blue it. I did find DGG on the right side of pistol where the seating rod connects. Next to it are the letters AI. If I read your reply right that means my pistol was made in 1980. Hopefully it will be in shooting condition soon. Thanks again, KeithR41

April 25, 2007, 06:40 AM	#2
mykeal Senior Member Join Date: October 8, 2006 Location: Northern Michigan Posts: 2,772	I'm assuming the frame is unfinished "white" steel and not case hardened. If so, finish the rough metal with sandpaper and elbow grease; I'd start with 220 and polish with 400. You are going to want to finish the metal at some point; there are many choices as to the process. The easiest, of course, is to have a gunsmith hot blue it. Doing it yourself is not difficult and infinitely more satisfying, but can be daunting. There are many threads on this and other forums, as well as other internet sites, on how to accomplish it. The biggest issue will be choosing the process: hot bluing, cold bluing, rust browning, "french" gray, etc, etc. Everyone has their favorite. Cold bluing is the easiest and least durable, hot bluing is best left to a pro with proper equipment and the others fall in between. Manufacturer's id stamps - usually in one or all of three places: bottom of the barrel under the loading lever, side of the frame above the trigger and/or the cylinder face. May also be on the bottom of the frame in front of the trigger guard, or the trigger guard itself. Pedersoli is lower case letters dp inside an oval; Uberti is the letter U inside what looks like a gun muzzle; Pietta is the upper case letters FAP inside a diamond shape and may include the name "F.LLI PIETTA ITALY" next to it; Palmetto is a palm tree inside a circle; Armi San Marco or Euroarms will be the letters DGG, maybe inside a circle, with the two G's one above the other in front of the D; Armi Sport is the capital letters AC inside a circle. There should also be a date stamp consisting of two capital letters inside a square, usually with the proof marks on the frame. This may also be roman numerals, depending on the age of the gun. It started with X in 1954, and went up to XXVI in 1970, then switched to XX7 in '71, XX8 in '72, XX9 in '73 and XXX in '74. The letters started in 1975 with AA; AG, AJ, AK, AO, AQ, AR, AV, AW, AX, and AY were all skipped so AZ is 1990. BA was 1991; BE, BG, BJ, BK, BO, BQ, and BR were skipped so BT was 2003. My table stops there, but if they kept to the same scheme after that BU would be 2004, BZ is 2005 and 2006 would be CA. There should be two Italian proof marks, always together: one is the letters PN with a five pointed star surrounded by a garland above the letters, the other looks like a coat of arms with that same star/garland above it.

April 25, 2007, 02:32 PM	#3
Old Dragoon Senior Member Join Date: October 31, 2005 Location: The Republic of Californi Posts: 581	DGG is ARMI SAN PAOLO and Euroarms, not Armi San Marco! ASM is the marking for Armi San Marco.

April 25, 2007, 06:37 PM	#4
l.cutler Senior Member Join Date: October 18, 2005 Posts: 275	Just a note, when finishing the steel, wrap the sandpaper around a file to keep flat surfaces flat and level. Just using your hand will result in dips and waves.