Backyard Bullet Trap Safety

jimbo61103 · August 8, 2012, 04:26 PM

I built a backstop for shooting in the back yard and now I’m having second thoughts about how safe it is.
I built it out of 1/4 inch steel sides/bottom and back is 1/2 inch (at 45 degrees) see attached pic.
I shot 10 .22LR into it with no problems.
I’m concerned about a ricochet when I move up into larger calibers.
I would like to use it for 38/357, 45, 223 and 30-06.
I was thinking about removing the bottom so the bullet would be absorbed in the dirt to reduce the risk of a ricochet.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Jim

RamItOne · August 8, 2012, 04:30 PM

Mobile or permanent?
At first glance I'd lower the target a bit

jimbo61103 · August 8, 2012, 04:38 PM

I plan on permanently placing it on the ground in front of 8 foot by 6 foot wall of railroad ties.
Thank you for the advice on lowering the target.

mightyoakwildlife · August 8, 2012, 05:11 PM

One of my regular partners was a bit "frugal", and casted his own bullets from reclaimed projectiles and wheel weights. He got tired of sifting through the sand berme at the range, so we built him a large, stationary trap like you have described. It didn't look quite the same, but it stopped everything from the full gamit of handgun & rimfire rounds to the jacketed centerfire rifles we threw at it. Sorry I don't have a photo, and I've left that town far behind.

Local State DOT provided us with lots of worn cutting edges from their plow blades, all in sections about three feet long, eight inches wide, and about 3/4" thick. Not sure what alloy they are, but they were "abrasion resistant" steel, same as steel targets and commercial traps are made from.

We spent some time straightening the less-than-ideal edges, with a couple 7" grinders. Preheated so as not to loose the temper, we welded together three six foot by two foot panels, with angle iron flanges on the back surface. That way, it was kinda' modular, and we bolted it all together in-place. Each panel we moved made us wonder why we didn't make them eight inches wide. Made two triangular panels, by welding a 6x4' rectangle, then cutting it diagonally. Burned holes in the right-angle of both triangles, welded flanges on the outside of them too.

After finding a couple virile dupes to help us, we went to the range and put it all together with Grade 8 bolts. Ran a length of threaded rod across the triangles (bottom-front), and "viola"... a very stout four foot high, six foot wide ultra-heavy duty bullet trap that stood up to everything the club members fired at it.

The ground in/below was about six inches of sand, but you never had to dig deeper than +/- half an inch. No holes, dents, or even dimples in the steel. The threaded rod was shot through by the end of the first season, but it was heavy enough that nothing moved, anyway. Spoke with my old partner on the phone last month, and he's still collecting the lead from the same trap, and all he's ever done is applied an occassional coat of spray paint to reduce rusting. That's over twenty three years of durability, with almost daily use.

RalphS · August 8, 2012, 10:02 PM

I've built a few bullet traps like yours. What I would add to yours is a 4 inch high piece of steel or wood across the front bottom and then fill the trap with 4 inches of sand to catch the bullet splatter.

If the 1/2 inch steel is mild steel, it will hold up to .22 but will get chewed up by centerfire calibers. How fast it gets chewed up depends on lots of factors. To stand up to centerfire calibers, especially rifle calibers, it needs to be either AR-400 or AR-500.

If you have a welder, you can just repair the damage as it occurs, but 223 and 30-06 might put holes in it pretty quick.

mightyoakwildlife · August 8, 2012, 10:10 PM

Tried one earlier rendition with the metal fascia, found that it was prone to cause ricochet issues, with rimfires and lower-powered jacketed rounds (both handgun & rifle). If you just remove the sod below the trap the sand stays quite nicely.

Might not work so well with a portable trap, but the OP said that his too would be stationary.

Aguila Blanca · August 8, 2012, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimbo61103

I’m concerned about a ricochet when I move up into larger calibers.
I would like to use it for 38/357, 45, 223 and 30-06.
I was thinking about removing the bottom so the bullet would be absorbed in the dirt to reduce the risk of a ricochet.

A ricochet is the LEAST of your worries.

I shoot at an older indoor range. The bullet "trap" is a huge steel plate, set at 45 degrees (like yours) to deflect bullets down into a water-filled moat that's several FEET deep. Rifle calibers are not allowed. No .17 calibers are allowed. Why not? Because they go right through the backstop.

BTW, the backstop at the range is 1 full inch thick. If you think you're going to shoot at 1/4-inch steel with a .223 or a .30-06 ... please think again. I wouldn't even shoot .38 Special or .45 ACP at that .. .22 only.

SIGSHR · August 8, 2012, 11:52 PM

Perhaps some sort of circular trap to dissipate the bullet energy and allow it to fall harmlessly to the ground would help?

jimbo61103 · August 9, 2012, 12:32 PM

Thank you for all of your posts.

Scott – sounds like one heck of a stout backstop

RalphS – I will try your idea to put the 4 inch piece of wood on the front and fill it with sand. I put five 9mm in it last night and the only damage to 1/2 steel back stop was chipped paint. I might try the 45 tonight.

Scott – If Ralph’s idea doesn’t work I’ll removed the bottom and put it on the dirt.

Aguila – I think you misread: the back 45 is 1/2 harden steel. Thank you for your input. I will make sure to let you know how it holds up to each caliber. It held up to the 9mm just fine last night. I might try the 45 tonight.

Sigshr – I will keep that in mind.

Thanks again,

Jim

August 8, 2012, 05:11 PM	#4
mightyoakwildlife Member Join Date: August 28, 2006 Location: Catskill Mountains of "Upstate New York" Posts: 63	One of my regular partners was a bit "frugal", and casted his own bullets from reclaimed projectiles and wheel weights. He got tired of sifting through the sand berme at the range, so we built him a large, stationary trap like you have described. It didn't look quite the same, but it stopped everything from the full gamit of handgun & rimfire rounds to the jacketed centerfire rifles we threw at it. Sorry I don't have a photo, and I've left that town far behind. Local State DOT provided us with lots of worn cutting edges from their plow blades, all in sections about three feet long, eight inches wide, and about 3/4" thick. Not sure what alloy they are, but they were "abrasion resistant" steel, same as steel targets and commercial traps are made from. We spent some time straightening the less-than-ideal edges, with a couple 7" grinders. Preheated so as not to loose the temper, we welded together three six foot by two foot panels, with angle iron flanges on the back surface. That way, it was kinda' modular, and we bolted it all together in-place. Each panel we moved made us wonder why we didn't make them eight inches wide. Made two triangular panels, by welding a 6x4' rectangle, then cutting it diagonally. Burned holes in the right-angle of both triangles, welded flanges on the outside of them too. After finding a couple virile dupes to help us, we went to the range and put it all together with Grade 8 bolts. Ran a length of threaded rod across the triangles (bottom-front), and "viola"... a very stout four foot high, six foot wide ultra-heavy duty bullet trap that stood up to everything the club members fired at it. The ground in/below was about six inches of sand, but you never had to dig deeper than +/- half an inch. No holes, dents, or even dimples in the steel. The threaded rod was shot through by the end of the first season, but it was heavy enough that nothing moved, anyway. Spoke with my old partner on the phone last month, and he's still collecting the lead from the same trap, and all he's ever done is applied an occassional coat of spray paint to reduce rusting. That's over twenty three years of durability, with almost daily use. __________________ swhite9@hvc.rr.comScott E. White

August 8, 2012, 10:10 PM	#6
mightyoakwildlife Member Join Date: August 28, 2006 Location: Catskill Mountains of "Upstate New York" Posts: 63	Tried one earlier rendition with the metal fascia, found that it was prone to cause ricochet issues, with rimfires and lower-powered jacketed rounds (both handgun & rifle). If you just remove the sod below the trap the sand stays quite nicely. Might not work so well with a portable trap, but the OP said that his too would be stationary. __________________ swhite9@hvc.rr.comScott E. White

August 8, 2012, 04:30 PM	#2
RamItOne Senior Member Join Date: May 24, 2011 Posts: 917	Mobile or permanent? At first glance I'd lower the target a bit

August 8, 2012, 04:38 PM	#3
jimbo61103 Junior Member Join Date: August 8, 2012 Posts: 3	I plan on permanently placing it on the ground in front of 8 foot by 6 foot wall of railroad ties. Thank you for the advice on lowering the target.

August 8, 2012, 10:02 PM	#5
RalphS Member Join Date: December 24, 2010 Posts: 80	I've built a few bullet traps like yours. What I would add to yours is a 4 inch high piece of steel or wood across the front bottom and then fill the trap with 4 inches of sand to catch the bullet splatter. If the 1/2 inch steel is mild steel, it will hold up to .22 but will get chewed up by centerfire calibers. How fast it gets chewed up depends on lots of factors. To stand up to centerfire calibers, especially rifle calibers, it needs to be either AR-400 or AR-500. If you have a welder, you can just repair the damage as it occurs, but 223 and 30-06 might put holes in it pretty quick.

August 8, 2012, 11:52 PM	#8
SIGSHR Senior Member Join Date: September 13, 2005 Posts: 2,585	Perhaps some sort of circular trap to dissipate the bullet energy and allow it to fall harmlessly to the ground would help?

August 9, 2012, 12:32 PM	#9
jimbo61103 Junior Member Join Date: August 8, 2012 Posts: 3	Thank you for all of your posts. Scott – sounds like one heck of a stout backstop RalphS – I will try your idea to put the 4 inch piece of wood on the front and fill it with sand. I put five 9mm in it last night and the only damage to 1/2 steel back stop was chipped paint. I might try the 45 tonight. Scott – If Ralph’s idea doesn’t work I’ll removed the bottom and put it on the dirt. Aguila – I think you misread: the back 45 is 1/2 harden steel. Thank you for your input. I will make sure to let you know how it holds up to each caliber. It held up to the 9mm just fine last night. I might try the 45 tonight. Sigshr – I will keep that in mind. Thanks again, Jim