Please help identify this rifle

frankgh · September 25, 2014, 06:54 PM

The only marking I can find anywhere, including looking under the stock are the caliber markings in the photo. This came to me from my step-dad and was his father's. It accompanied a 1937 Remington Model 41.

Can anyone identify it? Thanks!

frankgh · September 25, 2014, 06:55 PM

One more pic

tahunua001 · September 25, 2014, 07:34 PM

it's a marlin model 81 and a rather rusty one at that.

frankgh · September 25, 2014, 09:53 PM

Thanks! It was in a ceder chest for the last 30 years... I'm afraid to clean it! LOL!

dakota.potts · September 25, 2014, 11:07 PM

#0000 steel wool with some oil is said to take the rust right off without harming the finish

tahunua001 · September 25, 2014, 11:08 PM

just rags and CLP will work wonders. that bolt's been bent seriously as well.

**44 AMP** · September 25, 2014, 11:39 PM

#0000 steel wool with some oil is said to take the rust right off without harming the finish

fixed it! LOL

Done absolutely right, on a gun which had quality bluing to begin with, it does well. Done too...vigorously, or on a gun that wasn't well blued to start with, and it can take off the bluing.

Try Naval Jelly
or just start with oil and cloth. a lot of surface rust will come off after oil soaking, and just rubbing with cleaning cloth (nothing abrasive).

**Mike Irwin** · September 26, 2014, 05:52 AM

Naval Jelly?

You realize just how damned aggressive that is, don't you?

It's phosphoric acid and some suphuric acid and it will quickly strip any remaining bluing, within minutes or even seconds.

Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust Remover is phosphoric acid with some sulphuric acid, and it's VERY effective at removing bluing.

HiBC · September 26, 2014, 06:19 AM

copper scrubbee

Mosin-Marauder · September 26, 2014, 06:23 AM

The bolt for my Remington 514 was more rusted than that. I sat and took the dremel tool to it for an hour with a moderate abrasives stone and just took careful even strokes with the grain of the metal. Got all the rust off and mot of the pits. Then I got 400 grit sandpaper and a cloth and polished with the sandpaper then put metal polish on with the cloth and polished it more.

natman · September 26, 2014, 06:08 PM

Quote:

#0000 steel wool with some oil is said to take the rust right off without harming the finish

fixed it! LOL

Done absolutely right, on a gun which had quality bluing to begin with, it does well. Done too...vigorously, or on a gun that wasn't well blued to start with, and it can take off the bluing.

0000 steel wool and oil can damage bluing - if you're totally ham fisted. I once tried to damaged a scrap barrel and managed to get the bluing to fade slightly after 10 minutes of white knuckle rubbing. If you understand the meaning of "gentle rubbing" you won't have a problem.

Quote:

Try Naval Jelly or just start with oil and cloth. a lot of surface rust will come off after oil soaking, and just rubbing with cleaning cloth (nothing abrasive).

Naval jelly OTOH will remove all the bluing and in a hurry.

tahunua001 · September 26, 2014, 08:13 PM

I've completely stripped the parking on a mosin nagant barrel with 0000 and oil and I don't exactly have the strongest lower arm strength. parking, is also generally much thicker and robust than your average bluing as well.

T. O'Heir · September 27, 2014, 02:35 PM

Naval jelly is for removing rust from battle ships. Bluing is rust. Naval Jelly will strip it to bare metal.
0000 steel wool and light oil will take the rust off with out bothering the bluing. There's no 'said' or 'said' involved. Mind you, a light touch with a fine, brass, wire wheel in a bench grinder is a lot faster.
Like tahunua001 says, the bolt is seriously bent. It isn't unusual for elderly .22's to be unmarked. Serial numbers were not required on 'em until your GCA of 1968 either.
"...the parking on a Mosin Nagant..." Those aren't parkerized.

Hawg · September 28, 2014, 07:22 AM

Looks like somebody was heavy handed with sandpaper and a pocket knife on the stock.

RC20 · September 28, 2014, 07:42 PM

I only came across one thing Naval Jelly would not hurt and that was Battleship paint!

Now, you may ask how I came to deal with a battleship.

It actually was a Totem Pole, seized in WWII from the Natives, Army took some and the Navy got some.

the one I had to work on nothing touched that paint, so it got re-painted battleship gray (latter day mix and not capable of stopping a 5 inch shell but that was no longer an issue.

On the other hand we recovered a rifle on a Cook Inlet beach from a guy who went over a cliff some years before, solid rust and the Naval Jelly ate it right out. I am not sure given a bit of time it won't eat steel.

Doyle · September 29, 2014, 07:56 AM

I have taken several guns that looked like that and brought them back from the dead - at least to usable condition. Use 0000 steel wool and oil. Lots of rubbing. Then, several treatments with Oxpho Blue to add some protection back to the steel. Let the Oxpho Blue cure for a month or two in the gun safe and it will become more permanent.

It won't look like a new gun after that but it will make a dandy shooter.

zach_ · September 30, 2014, 06:13 PM

I have an old wards shotgun that looks similar as far as the rust. I have been rubbing it down
with gun oil every few days for months. It is slowly improving. I was told this was safe for the existing finish. No expert here.

**44 AMP** · October 2, 2014, 10:40 AM

I don't know if there are different "grades" of Naval Jelly, the stuff I used said it was "Naval Jelly", and it did take the rust off a 1960s era Colt Government model, and didn't take off the bluing.

BUT, I didn't use very much, and only on the badly rusted spots (where the bluing was already gone).

SO, based on what others have said, I'd say use Naval Jelly VERY CAUTIOUSLY for guns.

Very fine #0000 steel wool and oil seems to be the best for rust that doesn't yield to less harsh methods.

steveNChunter · October 3, 2014, 08:07 PM

Anybody else ever tried Nevr Dull?

I've always had good luck at removing surface rust without hurting the bluing. Any auto parts store or Walmart should have it.

tahunua001 · October 3, 2014, 09:07 PM

I would be wary to use neverdull. we used it to polish brass in the navy. it got rid of all the corrosion and such for stuff that hadn't been done in a while. one would assume it would do the same to bluing since it's just another form of rust.

September 25, 2014, 07:34 PM	#3
tahunua001 Senior Member Join Date: July 21, 2011 Location: Idaho Posts: 7,839	it's a marlin model 81 and a rather rusty one at that. __________________ ignore my complete lack of capitalization. I still have no problem correcting your grammar. I never said half the stuff people said I did-Albert Einstein You can't believe everything you read on the internet-Benjamin Franklin

September 25, 2014, 11:07 PM	#5
dakota.potts Senior Member Join Date: February 25, 2013 Location: Keystone Heights, Florida Posts: 3,084	#0000 steel wool with some oil is said to take the rust right off without harming the finish __________________ Certified Gunsmith (On Hiatus) Certified Armorer - H&K and Glock Among Others You can find my writings at my website, pottsprecision.com.

September 25, 2014, 11:08 PM	#6
tahunua001 Senior Member Join Date: July 21, 2011 Location: Idaho Posts: 7,839	just rags and CLP will work wonders. that bolt's been bent seriously as well. __________________ ignore my complete lack of capitalization. I still have no problem correcting your grammar. I never said half the stuff people said I did-Albert Einstein You can't believe everything you read on the internet-Benjamin Franklin

September 25, 2014, 11:39 PM	#7
44 AMP Staff Join Date: March 11, 2006 Location: Upper US Posts: 28,820	#0000 steel wool with some oil is said to take the rust right off without harming the finish fixed it! LOL Done absolutely right, on a gun which had quality bluing to begin with, it does well. Done too...vigorously, or on a gun that wasn't well blued to start with, and it can take off the bluing. Try Naval Jelly or just start with oil and cloth. a lot of surface rust will come off after oil soaking, and just rubbing with cleaning cloth (nothing abrasive). __________________ All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.

September 26, 2014, 05:52 AM	#8
Mike Irwin Staff Join Date: April 13, 2000 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 41,381	Naval Jelly? You realize just how damned aggressive that is, don't you? It's phosphoric acid and some suphuric acid and it will quickly strip any remaining bluing, within minutes or even seconds. Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust Remover is phosphoric acid with some sulphuric acid, and it's VERY effective at removing bluing. __________________ "The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower. Last edited by Mike Irwin; September 26, 2014 at 05:57 AM.

September 25, 2014, 09:53 PM	#4
frankgh Member Join Date: June 13, 2012 Location: Navarre, FL Posts: 46	Thanks! It was in a ceder chest for the last 30 years... I'm afraid to clean it! LOL!

September 26, 2014, 06:19 AM	#9
HiBC Senior Member Join Date: November 13, 2006 Posts: 8,283	copper scrubbee

September 26, 2014, 06:23 AM	#10
Mosin-Marauder Senior Member Join Date: April 18, 2014 Location: North Carolina Posts: 2,320	The bolt for my Remington 514 was more rusted than that. I sat and took the dremel tool to it for an hour with a moderate abrasives stone and just took careful even strokes with the grain of the metal. Got all the rust off and mot of the pits. Then I got 400 grit sandpaper and a cloth and polished with the sandpaper then put metal polish on with the cloth and polished it more. __________________ Proud owner of three (four-ish) pieces of history! K-31, Mosin-Nagant M91/30, M24/47 Mauser, Norinco SKS. "You might as well appeal against a thunderstorm..." William Tecumseh Sherman

September 26, 2014, 08:13 PM	#12
tahunua001 Senior Member Join Date: July 21, 2011 Location: Idaho Posts: 7,839	I've completely stripped the parking on a mosin nagant barrel with 0000 and oil and I don't exactly have the strongest lower arm strength. parking, is also generally much thicker and robust than your average bluing as well. __________________ ignore my complete lack of capitalization. I still have no problem correcting your grammar. I never said half the stuff people said I did-Albert Einstein You can't believe everything you read on the internet-Benjamin Franklin

September 27, 2014, 02:35 PM	#13
T. O'Heir Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 12,453	Naval jelly is for removing rust from battle ships. Bluing is rust. Naval Jelly will strip it to bare metal. 0000 steel wool and light oil will take the rust off with out bothering the bluing. There's no 'said' or 'said' involved. Mind you, a light touch with a fine, brass, wire wheel in a bench grinder is a lot faster. Like tahunua001 says, the bolt is seriously bent. It isn't unusual for elderly .22's to be unmarked. Serial numbers were not required on 'em until your GCA of 1968 either. "...the parking on a Mosin Nagant..." Those aren't parkerized. __________________ Spelling and grammar count!

September 28, 2014, 07:22 AM	#14
Hawg Senior Member Join Date: September 8, 2007 Location: Mississippi Posts: 16,188	Looks like somebody was heavy handed with sandpaper and a pocket knife on the stock.

September 28, 2014, 07:42 PM	#15
RC20 Senior Member Join Date: April 10, 2008 Location: Alaska Posts: 7,014	I only came across one thing Naval Jelly would not hurt and that was Battleship paint! Now, you may ask how I came to deal with a battleship. It actually was a Totem Pole, seized in WWII from the Natives, Army took some and the Navy got some. the one I had to work on nothing touched that paint, so it got re-painted battleship gray (latter day mix and not capable of stopping a 5 inch shell but that was no longer an issue. On the other hand we recovered a rifle on a Cook Inlet beach from a guy who went over a cliff some years before, solid rust and the Naval Jelly ate it right out. I am not sure given a bit of time it won't eat steel.

September 29, 2014, 07:56 AM	#16
Doyle Senior Member Join Date: June 20, 2007 Location: Rainbow City, Alabama Posts: 7,167	I have taken several guns that looked like that and brought them back from the dead - at least to usable condition. Use 0000 steel wool and oil. Lots of rubbing. Then, several treatments with Oxpho Blue to add some protection back to the steel. Let the Oxpho Blue cure for a month or two in the gun safe and it will become more permanent. It won't look like a new gun after that but it will make a dandy shooter.

September 30, 2014, 06:13 PM	#17
zach_ Senior Member Join Date: February 21, 2014 Location: DFW north Posts: 377	I have an old wards shotgun that looks similar as far as the rust. I have been rubbing it down with gun oil every few days for months. It is slowly improving. I was told this was safe for the existing finish. No expert here. __________________ Z

October 2, 2014, 10:40 AM	#18
44 AMP Staff Join Date: March 11, 2006 Location: Upper US Posts: 28,820	I don't know if there are different "grades" of Naval Jelly, the stuff I used said it was "Naval Jelly", and it did take the rust off a 1960s era Colt Government model, and didn't take off the bluing. BUT, I didn't use very much, and only on the badly rusted spots (where the bluing was already gone). SO, based on what others have said, I'd say use Naval Jelly VERY CAUTIOUSLY for guns. Very fine #0000 steel wool and oil seems to be the best for rust that doesn't yield to less harsh methods. __________________ All else being equal (and it almost never is) bigger bullets tend to work better.

October 3, 2014, 08:07 PM	#19
steveNChunter Senior Member Join Date: December 14, 2012 Location: Southern Appalachian Mtns Posts: 1,520	Anybody else ever tried Nevr Dull? I've always had good luck at removing surface rust without hurting the bluing. Any auto parts store or Walmart should have it. __________________ DEO VINDICE

October 3, 2014, 09:07 PM	#20
tahunua001 Senior Member Join Date: July 21, 2011 Location: Idaho Posts: 7,839	I would be wary to use neverdull. we used it to polish brass in the navy. it got rid of all the corrosion and such for stuff that hadn't been done in a while. one would assume it would do the same to bluing since it's just another form of rust. __________________ ignore my complete lack of capitalization. I still have no problem correcting your grammar. I never said half the stuff people said I did-Albert Einstein You can't believe everything you read on the internet-Benjamin Franklin