Making my own wood grips???

BigMike · October 11, 2000, 11:10 PM

I recently ordered and received the walnut grips for my Witness .45. They look good, but I like the look of the Coco Bolo on the flat black rather than the plain walnut brown.

I looked at the grips, and thought I could make some myself. The frame of the pistol doesn't have any action work contained within it(except for the mag release button). I think I can find some wood to my liking, get it cut, and fire up the Dremel on it. I know the measurements are tight and need to be precise, but I think I can do it. I am considering it my next project.

Have any of you guys ever tried this before?
What about treating the wood when it is completed?

Any thoughts/comments please.

Mike

George Stringer · October 12, 2000, 06:35 AM

BigMike, a lot of folks make their own grips. I've made several for pistols I've built on the Essex chopped frame 1911. You already have the existing grips as a model so you should have a good project there. As far as treating the wood just finish it with your choice of finish, tru oil, linspeed, tung oil, etc. George

Thibault · October 12, 2000, 06:42 AM

It all depends on the kind of finish you want on your grip... But, if you really want my 0.02, sanding is the most important part. Sand, sand, sand again then sand some more. Once you think you're done, with the finest grit, soak your grips in water so the leftover splinters swell and stick out, them sand again...
I've refinished several wood stocks, from an oil job to a marine-grade urethane finish (yeah, the kind of stuff the use on wooden boats), and it is a pleasure to see and shoot with something that you made yourself and that fits you exactly as you wanted it!
Just make sure your wood is ABSOLUTELY dry to start with, so you shall steer clear of splitting or twisting problems.

weegee · October 12, 2000, 07:56 AM

Just wanted to mention that the dust from cocobolo is slightly toxic (same applies to paduak, I.E. 'vermilion' wood--and a few other exotics, im sure). Just be sure to wear a mask, and always wash your hands carefully when you take a break, and you should be OK.

The sanding, as Thibault notes, is the most important stage. If you have flat surfaces, or surfaces without compund curves, always use a sanding block--you'll get much better results. (A 'trade secret:go to the Home Depot and get a sheet of blue styrofoam insulation. You can sand and shape this into your own customized, disposable sanding blocks for any curved areas. One sheet lasts forever, and this stuff has the perfect consistency.) I'd suggest going to 400 grit or even 600, then use a 'danish oil' type finish such as Watco (the best)--avoid minwax, it's crap. (Tru-Oil, available at most gun shops, is excellent, and faster than the Watco.)

Also, for the wet-sanding, you shouldn't soak the wood, just dampen it, then barely warm it over the heat of a stove burner--this makes the 'fuzzies' pop out so you can mow them down. (If you 'soak' a piece of wood that thin you may cause warping or 'checking'--minute end cracks--so just dampen and dry a couple times and you'll have cured that problem.

Best, weegee

brianidaho · October 22, 2000, 02:09 AM

Bigmike, let us know how the project turns out. I've ordered a Witness .40 Compact that I'd like to make a set of grips for. Don't have it yet, I'm glad to hear that there's no mechanism in the grip area. Whats the best way to shape the perimeter of the grips? I'm planning to make up a hardboard template and make up the 2 grips on my router table.

Bri

JimWolford · October 22, 2000, 08:02 PM

Brian:

No need to make a seperate template.

Use the original grips as a template, takes a bit of head scratchin to get it done, but easier in the long run

Jim

------------------
Lay up some blackpowder and flints
The rest we can build, if need be

stuckatwork · October 24, 2000, 12:43 PM

Instead making a template, why not use a small diameter pattern bit? These are the type of bits that have a bearing at the top of the cutting surface. You stack the original and blank using double stick tape and router away.

------------------
You can find the price of freedom, buried in the ground.

brianidaho · October 24, 2000, 11:34 PM

OK, should have thought of that myself. Only concern I'd have is the contact area for the double-sided tape on the stock grip. I don't have the gun yet-is there a continuous flat area where the grip enters the frame, or just a thin rib or wall? Looking forward to playing

Bri

BigMike · October 25, 2000, 10:00 AM

Brian,

The side facing the magazine well is flat with the other side having a slight curve to it. I was debating on going 1/4 inch thick wood, but think it's cutting it close. Rather I am going to 1/2 inch, my rationale being that I can always take more off, but i can't put any on. The grip is fairly flat, except for the back strap where it thickens and bends(slightly) around the grip, necessitating a thicker piece of wood. I found a place online where I can get one square foot piece of cocobolo wood, 1/2 inch thick for under $25. I don't have a router, but I have a pretty good Dremel.

Thanks for the advice on cocobolo and other exotic woods being toxic. I didn't know that. When sanding it, i'll use safety glasses and a mask (I have them so I'll use them).

Any more bits and pieces of advice are appreciated. It's been a while since I had a "project."

Mike

JK · October 28, 2000, 03:48 PM

Take your old grips and use them for a pattern, drill the holes in the new piece of wood the same size as the threaded part of the grip screws, then countersink the holes on the top side of the new grip. Screw the new grip to a piece of wood smaller than the grip. Use the piece of wood as a handle. This makes it easy to hold onto the grip and sand the radius or the grip on a power sander. You can then use the wood to hold the grip in a vise when doing the final shaping and finishing. One other thing,I have found some of the exotic woods are very oily and do not hold finish well. If your wood is like this it usually works just fine without finish. Have fun with your project-John K

BigMike · October 28, 2000, 10:09 PM

JK,

I had planned on doing exactly what you suggested. I ordered a little over a square foot of coco bolo wood from www.woodnshop.com for $23. They were even going to cut it in strips for me. They seemed to be very helpful. I should get it early next week and I'll be sanding away.

Mike

October 11, 2000, 11:10 PM	#1
BigMike Senior Member Join Date: October 16, 1999 Location: North Central/Panhandle Florid Posts: 569	I recently ordered and received the walnut grips for my Witness .45. They look good, but I like the look of the Coco Bolo on the flat black rather than the plain walnut brown. I looked at the grips, and thought I could make some myself. The frame of the pistol doesn't have any action work contained within it(except for the mag release button). I think I can find some wood to my liking, get it cut, and fire up the Dremel on it. I know the measurements are tight and need to be precise, but I think I can do it. I am considering it my next project. Have any of you guys ever tried this before? What about treating the wood when it is completed? Any thoughts/comments please. Mike

October 12, 2000, 06:35 AM	#2
George Stringer Staff Alumnus Join Date: October 12, 1998 Location: Earlington KY Posts: 2,299	BigMike, a lot of folks make their own grips. I've made several for pistols I've built on the Essex chopped frame 1911. You already have the existing grips as a model so you should have a good project there. As far as treating the wood just finish it with your choice of finish, tru oil, linspeed, tung oil, etc. George

October 12, 2000, 06:42 AM	#3
Thibault Senior Member Join Date: January 27, 2000 Location: Middle of nowhere, Northern Quebec Posts: 336	It all depends on the kind of finish you want on your grip... But, if you really want my 0.02, sanding is the most important part. Sand, sand, sand again then sand some more. Once you think you're done, with the finest grit, soak your grips in water so the leftover splinters swell and stick out, them sand again... I've refinished several wood stocks, from an oil job to a marine-grade urethane finish (yeah, the kind of stuff the use on wooden boats), and it is a pleasure to see and shoot with something that you made yourself and that fits you exactly as you wanted it! Just make sure your wood is ABSOLUTELY dry to start with, so you shall steer clear of splitting or twisting problems.

October 12, 2000, 07:56 AM	#4
weegee Senior Member Join Date: November 24, 1999 Posts: 195	Just wanted to mention that the dust from cocobolo is slightly toxic (same applies to paduak, I.E. 'vermilion' wood--and a few other exotics, im sure). Just be sure to wear a mask, and always wash your hands carefully when you take a break, and you should be OK. The sanding, as Thibault notes, is the most important stage. If you have flat surfaces, or surfaces without compund curves, always use a sanding block--you'll get much better results. (A 'trade secret:go to the Home Depot and get a sheet of blue styrofoam insulation. You can sand and shape this into your own customized, disposable sanding blocks for any curved areas. One sheet lasts forever, and this stuff has the perfect consistency.) I'd suggest going to 400 grit or even 600, then use a 'danish oil' type finish such as Watco (the best)--avoid minwax, it's crap. (Tru-Oil, available at most gun shops, is excellent, and faster than the Watco.) Also, for the wet-sanding, you shouldn't soak the wood, just dampen it, then barely warm it over the heat of a stove burner--this makes the 'fuzzies' pop out so you can mow them down. (If you 'soak' a piece of wood that thin you may cause warping or 'checking'--minute end cracks--so just dampen and dry a couple times and you'll have cured that problem. Best, weegee

October 22, 2000, 02:09 AM	#5
brianidaho Senior Member Join Date: August 29, 2000 Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID Posts: 446	Bigmike, let us know how the project turns out. I've ordered a Witness .40 Compact that I'd like to make a set of grips for. Don't have it yet, I'm glad to hear that there's no mechanism in the grip area. Whats the best way to shape the perimeter of the grips? I'm planning to make up a hardboard template and make up the 2 grips on my router table. Bri

October 22, 2000, 08:02 PM	#6
JimWolford Member Join Date: June 20, 2000 Posts: 63	Brian: No need to make a seperate template. Use the original grips as a template, takes a bit of head scratchin to get it done, but easier in the long run Jim ------------------ Lay up some blackpowder and flints The rest we can build, if need be

October 24, 2000, 12:43 PM	#7
stuckatwork Senior Member Join Date: March 3, 2000 Posts: 217	Instead making a template, why not use a small diameter pattern bit? These are the type of bits that have a bearing at the top of the cutting surface. You stack the original and blank using double stick tape and router away. ------------------ You can find the price of freedom, buried in the ground.

October 24, 2000, 11:34 PM	#8
brianidaho Senior Member Join Date: August 29, 2000 Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID Posts: 446	OK, should have thought of that myself. Only concern I'd have is the contact area for the double-sided tape on the stock grip. I don't have the gun yet-is there a continuous flat area where the grip enters the frame, or just a thin rib or wall? Looking forward to playing Bri

October 25, 2000, 10:00 AM	#9
BigMike Senior Member Join Date: October 16, 1999 Location: North Central/Panhandle Florid Posts: 569	Brian, The side facing the magazine well is flat with the other side having a slight curve to it. I was debating on going 1/4 inch thick wood, but think it's cutting it close. Rather I am going to 1/2 inch, my rationale being that I can always take more off, but i can't put any on. The grip is fairly flat, except for the back strap where it thickens and bends(slightly) around the grip, necessitating a thicker piece of wood. I found a place online where I can get one square foot piece of cocobolo wood, 1/2 inch thick for under $25. I don't have a router, but I have a pretty good Dremel. Thanks for the advice on cocobolo and other exotic woods being toxic. I didn't know that. When sanding it, i'll use safety glasses and a mask (I have them so I'll use them). Any more bits and pieces of advice are appreciated. It's been a while since I had a "project." Mike

October 28, 2000, 03:48 PM	#10
JK Member Join Date: October 27, 2000 Posts: 75	Take your old grips and use them for a pattern, drill the holes in the new piece of wood the same size as the threaded part of the grip screws, then countersink the holes on the top side of the new grip. Screw the new grip to a piece of wood smaller than the grip. Use the piece of wood as a handle. This makes it easy to hold onto the grip and sand the radius or the grip on a power sander. You can then use the wood to hold the grip in a vise when doing the final shaping and finishing. One other thing,I have found some of the exotic woods are very oily and do not hold finish well. If your wood is like this it usually works just fine without finish. Have fun with your project-John K

October 28, 2000, 10:09 PM	#11
BigMike Senior Member Join Date: October 16, 1999 Location: North Central/Panhandle Florid Posts: 569	JK, I had planned on doing exactly what you suggested. I ordered a little over a square foot of coco bolo wood from www.woodnshop.com for $23. They were even going to cut it in strips for me. They seemed to be very helpful. I should get it early next week and I'll be sanding away. Mike