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Old November 10, 2005, 01:36 PM   #1
Clayfish
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Just a little advice please

I've been shooting for years but and I've finally decided to "roll my own". I'm starting out small to make sure I can do this. I have ordered a lee loader (it's the kit with everything to laod one caliber) and will have it next week. Is there anything else you guys would recomend to me. Any tips are appreciated. I really need some help in this as I have no idea nor do i know anyone who reloads to help me. Thanks for your help.
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Old November 10, 2005, 01:52 PM   #2
Rivers
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I'd suggest that you start with the Lee Anniversary Kit, if you're not sure you want to reload, and if money's a consideration. You'll at least get a press that'll crank out acceptable ammo.
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Old November 10, 2005, 01:54 PM   #3
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Start with carbide dies!!!!

They save you at least a little as far as case prep to start.
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Old November 10, 2005, 02:08 PM   #4
Clayfish
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I'm on a limited budget and don't want to spend even the 60.00 it cost to get the lee anniversary kit unless I'm absolutly sure I can reload so I'm going with the lee loader to start with. Is there anything else I need to get started?
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Old November 10, 2005, 02:11 PM   #5
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Clayfish,

http://www.reload-nrma.com/

and get a copy of NRA Guide to Reloading. Read that book before you do anything else. First, it's strictly a 'how to' not reloading data. Second, you will get an idea of what you DO need and what NOT to spend money on to get started and what the process is. On the web sight is a link to instructors. There may be one in your area. Third, then get a good reload manual such as Lyman, Sierra, Accurate, Hodgdon, etc. I like Lyman for a firsty. Lastly, be safe and have fun with it. sundog
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Old November 10, 2005, 02:18 PM   #6
Leftoverdj
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He already ordered a Lee Loader. Good move!

It's a $20 investment to see if he likes it and to learn the basics on.

All you really need besides components is a rubber or plastic mallet and a board. Read the directions very carefully a couple of times and select a powder and a bullet from the recipes that come with the kit. With only one powder, one bullet, and one dipper, it's very hard to get into trouble.

Load one case at a time until you get used to it. Then you can add a loading block to keep the charged cases upright and do batches of 50. Case goes in the block after you add the powder. Check when you have the block filled to make sure that every case has the same level of powder.

The Lee Loader is dreadfully slow and most folks tire of it soon, but it's the best way to get started.
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Old November 10, 2005, 03:10 PM   #7
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The NEXT peice of gear i would get would be a used powder scale ( form a local shop , ebay or lee's refurbished bin). Teh problem with teh lee basic kits is that you use the dipper to measure powder but never know how much powder you are really using. ( Powder is measured in grains not volume. Volume can only approximate how much powder you are using.) The dipper chart is often 10-15% off in my experience. Even A $10 scale will allow you to load safer and more consistantly. A scale is also a tool you will want no matter what you upgrade to for a press/die set.
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Old November 10, 2005, 05:39 PM   #8
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Buy the book "The ABC's of Reloading".
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Old November 10, 2005, 07:22 PM   #9
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Don't make it into work...

Have some fun with it...

Be intensely careful when measuring...

Start with moderate loads and work up to hotter loads...
Watch for pressure flattening of spent primers...
Especially watch for "cratering" of the piring pin dent...
These are signs of too much pressure so back off the loads...

Look for a nice balance between pressure, accuracy the optimum bullet weights/types.

Keep it fun...
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Old November 11, 2005, 05:13 AM   #10
Leftoverdj
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Quote:
Teh problem with teh lee basic kits is that you use the dipper to measure powder but never know how much powder you are really using. ( Powder is measured in grains not volume. Volume can only approximate how much powder you are using.)
For basic loads, you don't really need to know what weight charge you are using. You need only know that your charge is safe and uniform. The Lee dipper does both. A variance greater than 2-3% indicates failure to read and follow the instructions.
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Old November 21, 2005, 01:00 PM   #11
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What about OAL? I'm concerned with this because there is no way to measure with the kit. You can crank it up or down alot. So how do I know it the bullet is too long or short? Also if I'm shooting say a 70 grain a-max and I use 1 scoop of powder. Is that as safe as using 1 scoop for a 55 grain? Sorry for the newb questions I just want to be sure. My local shop didn't have any .223 bullets so they ordered them for me. I should have them thursday so I want to be sure so I can try it out this weekend. They ordered me a scale too. Are calipers necissary?
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Old November 21, 2005, 01:04 PM   #12
Rivers
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Calipers are probably too expensive and complicated for you. Just use a tape measure.
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Old November 21, 2005, 09:00 PM   #13
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Simple way to set overall length is to use a factory cartridge as a gauge. When you get the kit, you will see that the recipe sheet calls for different powders for different bullet weights. It's best to stick to one powder and one bullet weight until you get used to what you are doing. Using the wrong powder or the wrong bullet weight can cause major trouble.
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Old November 21, 2005, 09:16 PM   #14
craigntx
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if loading for an auto, test fire the first ten or so.
nothing worse than a bunch of ammo that jams your gun.
i learned this from exp
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Old November 22, 2005, 05:59 PM   #15
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Quote:
What about OAL? I'm concerned with this because there is no way to measure with the kit.
A caliper would be handy for this. OAL is listed by cartridge, but in practice is usually set by how long your barrel throat is, how long your magazine is,and how your bullet is best seated. Seating to the cannelure for example, is almost always a safe bet for staying within cartridge OAL.

Quote:
You can crank it up or down alot. So how do I know it the bullet is too long or short?
Seating to cannelures or crimp grooves are a good method of cheating at this. Also, use of comparative factory ammo using the same or a similar bullet can also help. Carefully seating a bullet in an uncharged test round and testing it through your rifles action in order to make sure that your bullet is seated far enough is also a useful idea. If it impacts the throat and sticks,it's definitely way too far. Eyeballing it isn't the way to make super accurate loads,but it can work ok.

Quote:
Also if I'm shooting say a 70 grain a-max and I use 1 scoop of powder. Is that as safe as using 1 scoop for a 55 grain?
I'd use scoops for almost any rifle round,though it is safer with a larger cased round such as the belted magnums. The practical difference between using a 70gr and 55gr bullet over scooped charges is nearly immaterial. The real safety factor is using a powder that is relatively slow and bulky for the size of your cartridge. For .223, I would be hesitant scooping faster ball powders such as AA2230,but wouldn't hesitate at all with 2520,4895,BallC2 or Varget. The key with the scoops is using the same procedure over and over again. Don't compress the powder differently each time. Follow Lee's instructions.

Quote:
Sorry for the newb questions I just want to be sure. My local shop didn't have any .223 bullets so they ordered them for me. I should have them thursday so I want to be sure so I can try it out this weekend. They ordered me a scale too. Are calipers necissary?
The caliper is technically optional, but is a wise and cheap investment, particularly because it is useful for other tasks.
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Old November 22, 2005, 07:22 PM   #16
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Before I bought a caliper, I checked OAL just by comparing a factory round. Put your load and a factory round side by side, a few inches apart put a straightedge on them. If there's a difference in height, the straightedge will make it very apparent. Its quite accurate.

Once you have your die set for the right OAL, it will be quite precise. Spot check a round now and then, but you'll see that the die is making them very consistent.

If you are shooting centerfire rifle rounds, you'll need a caliper and a case trimmer pretty quick. Centerfire rifle rounds can grow too long in just a few firings. And some factory ammo has cases longer than speg. Dunno why.

Lee makes a case length die. Just file off anything that sticks out the top. Cheap, but effective.

Pistol rounds don't have a problem with cases growing.
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Old November 22, 2005, 09:02 PM   #17
Clayfish
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Thanks poodleshooter and dave r. I appreciate the help. I was pretty sure about the about the cannelure. I'm going to load some up for this weekend.
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Old November 23, 2005, 07:39 AM   #18
DimitriS
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I was reading about the Classic Lee Loader and aparently it only sizes the case neck, so you might not be able to use this to reload for a semi-automatic rifle.

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Old November 25, 2005, 08:48 PM   #19
Toney
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A scale the little lee scale workes good for me Buy an iron press The lee classic lookes pretty good. I bought a rcbs jr2 at the last gunshow had been using the challenger press that came with the anv kit the little lee press loaded thousands of rounds after the handle broke but i'm still glad i tryed a good press
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Old November 25, 2005, 08:49 PM   #20
Toney
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A scale the little lee scale workes good for me Buy an iron press The lee classic lookes pretty good. I bought a rcbs jr2 at the last gunshow had been using the challenger press that came with the anv kit the little lee press loaded thousands of rounds after the handle broke but i'm still glad i tryed a good press
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