My Brazillian SA 1911A1 Needs Help

oldbillthundercheif · July 26, 2007, 04:00 AM

I carried this pistol and shot it very frequently for a full 10 years until things started to go south.

I did the math the other day and figured that the barrel has had in the neighborhood of 100,000 rounds through it. You can tell. The rifling in the first 1/3rd of the tube is badly degraded and almost nonexistent near the chamber. Accuracy has been in a downward spiral for years.

It has numerous scratches, dings, and spots of holster-wear and wear in general on the finish (matte black). I figure if I fix it up, I'll put a pair of Hakan Pek curly maple grips on it and sport it again. It has always been reliable and it used to be pretty accurate.

Is there anyone that can refinish a cheap aluminum-frame 1911 for less than I paid for the pistol? I don't need plutonium plating or anything fancy, but the pistol looks pretty rough right now.

I'm going to have somebody fit a new barrel to it even if I don't start carrying it again and I'm looking for somebody that can get it shooting well again for less than an arm and a leg...

Any tips, ideas, or recommendations to help get my Brazillian beater back on the road would be very helpfull.

Scorch · July 26, 2007, 02:13 PM

The frame will have to be stripped and hard anodized. You will have to remove ALL steel parts and give it to a plater. It's not terrifically expensive. Steel parts can be reblued for a modest price, often by the same plating shop, but you will have to polish them yourself. Or give it to a smith and let him do the work.

As far as the barrel goes, there are options: you can buy a "drop-in" barrel (Barsto makes a nice one) that will shoot much better than the factory barrel. Or you can buy an oversized barrel that will require fitting (you can do it or a gunsmith can whip it out very quickly). A friend just bought one from Midway a few months back and it was about $170 IIRC. Shoots great. Or you can go with a target barrel that will require major slide and bushing fitting, but will shoot everything into the same hole for about the cost of a new gun.

Bill DeShivs · July 26, 2007, 06:24 PM

Frame:
Re-anodizing can be done, or you can strip the old anodizing off by soaking it in Easy-Off oven cleaner. You can then hand-sand the scratches out, and leave it silver.
Or, you can have the frame electroless nickel plated.
You can also paint the frame with one of the gun paint finishes available, but it won't hold up well.

Hunter Customs · July 26, 2007, 09:05 PM

It may be more then you want to spend, I would consider having the lower hardchromed. Hardchroming will wear better then other finishes, especially in humid areas.
Most any good pistol smith should be able to fit a new barrel in your gun. If you attempt to do this yourself be sure and time the gun correctly.
Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com

Bosshoff · July 27, 2007, 09:53 AM

I'd send it back to Springfield's Custom shop to see what they say. Tell them it is a carry weapon/shooter, not a target/race gun. They could fit a standard SS barrell, and at the same time maybe a bushing as well? This should not be too expensive. Additonally, they probably could give you some great options for refinishing the frame.

Harry Bonar · July 27, 2007, 03:33 PM

Sir:
Find a gunsmith that will do what I did on one that the guy just had to have a lightweight frame:
I forget the diameter but it was close 1/2" drill rod. I plunge cut the feed ramp away and precision inserted the drill rod, pinned and loc-tighted it in and then milled the excess off and hand ground the new ramp - will never wear again - it really worked well!
This must be done with a mill really due to the hole precision necessity!
I think all lightweight frames ought to have this - all the lightweight frames I've seen are dimpled there (ones that have been shot, that is.)
This really makes a lightweight frame a joy, less weight, better portability and it never dimples again - you can do it if you're careful - the rod goes in tight but I also pin it to ensure mechanical integrity.
Harry B.

Jim Watson · July 27, 2007, 04:32 PM

Harry, that is what Caspian did if you ordered an aluminum frame with steel feed ramp, back when they offered lightweights. Better than an integral ramp barrel, I think.

SA would surely replace your barrel and refinish the gun. Their Armory Kote would probably do ok on aluminum, unless you wanted to hard chrome it... if Bob could tell you where to send it, most platers don't like to fool with aluminum.

Bill DeShivs · July 27, 2007, 06:05 PM

"Hard" chrome offers very little advantage on an alloy frame, as the aluminum can still dent underneath the plating. Plain aluminum is easier to maintain, and is the same color.

orionengnr · July 27, 2007, 06:33 PM

My used 3" Kimber Ultra Carry had the anodizing sanded off the feed ramp by a prior owner (or his agent) presumably in search of feed reliability.

It probably fed well for a bit, but the soft aluminum alloy was exposed when I got it. Well under one hundred rounds later, I was heartsick. I had a very pricey paperweight, and A Big Problem. Fortunately, I found this thread:

http://forums.1911forum.com/showthre...ht=ramp+insert

I have nothing but good things to say about Rogers Precision and Chuck Rogers, and the way hey treated my Kimber. While it was there, I had the frame Cera-Koted black. It is now my favorite carry 1911. It is reliable, accurate and beautiful.

If you want pics, email me (orionengnr at yahoo dot com) and I'll be happy to send some.

Bill DeShivs · July 27, 2007, 06:41 PM

Anodizing aluminum is just like plating it. The subsurface is still soft. The hard layer is extremely thin and offers no real protection against wear.
Feed angle is more important on alloy guns. If the angle is correct there will be little wear or dimpling.

oldbillthundercheif · July 27, 2007, 06:52 PM

Let me make this very clear:
My aluminum-frame gun has had thousands of rounds of hollowpoints through it (mostly Golden Sabres) with zero functioning issues and the aluminum around the steel feed-ramp looks exactly like it did over a decade and 100K rounds ago.

I'm sure some people have had problems with aluminum-frame guns without barrels with steel feed-ramps, but mine has one and I'm not going to fix something that ain't broke.

Lots of people who seem to know what they are talking about have said:
"that aluminum frame will be all mangled within 100 rounds if you shoot Rem GSs through it"
"get a steel insert or that thing will be unusable in a year"
"don't you know that aluminum is too soft to handle frequent shooting?"
and lots more...

Bullpucks.

If it needed any more steel I would have had a problem by now. It needs a new barrel and a refinishing job.

ocharry · July 27, 2007, 06:59 PM

i would send it back to springfield and let them go through it,,, i bet you will like what they do for you my .02

ocharry

oldbillthundercheif · July 29, 2007, 02:35 AM

The more I look at my Hi-Power the more I wonder what this particular 1911 would look like with a high-gloss black finish that looks faintly blue-black in bright light. Would it be easy or hard to get a finish of this type on both the steel slide and aluminum frame?

I'm guessing it would be difficult and expensive to get them to match perfectly, but that's just a gut reaction...

Has anyone tried this with good results?

I'm not sure I've ever seen a glossy black 1911 much less one made out of two very different metals.

July 26, 2007, 04:00 AM	#1
oldbillthundercheif Junior member Join Date: April 21, 2006 Location: New Orleans Posts: 2,450	My Brazillian SA 1911A1 Needs Help I carried this pistol and shot it very frequently for a full 10 years until things started to go south. I did the math the other day and figured that the barrel has had in the neighborhood of 100,000 rounds through it. You can tell. The rifling in the first 1/3rd of the tube is badly degraded and almost nonexistent near the chamber. Accuracy has been in a downward spiral for years. It has numerous scratches, dings, and spots of holster-wear and wear in general on the finish (matte black). I figure if I fix it up, I'll put a pair of Hakan Pek curly maple grips on it and sport it again. It has always been reliable and it used to be pretty accurate. Is there anyone that can refinish a cheap aluminum-frame 1911 for less than I paid for the pistol? I don't need plutonium plating or anything fancy, but the pistol looks pretty rough right now. I'm going to have somebody fit a new barrel to it even if I don't start carrying it again and I'm looking for somebody that can get it shooting well again for less than an arm and a leg... Any tips, ideas, or recommendations to help get my Brazillian beater back on the road would be very helpfull.

July 26, 2007, 02:13 PM	#2
Scorch Senior Member Join Date: February 13, 2006 Location: Washington state Posts: 15,248	The frame will have to be stripped and hard anodized. You will have to remove ALL steel parts and give it to a plater. It's not terrifically expensive. Steel parts can be reblued for a modest price, often by the same plating shop, but you will have to polish them yourself. Or give it to a smith and let him do the work. As far as the barrel goes, there are options: you can buy a "drop-in" barrel (Barsto makes a nice one) that will shoot much better than the factory barrel. Or you can buy an oversized barrel that will require fitting (you can do it or a gunsmith can whip it out very quickly). A friend just bought one from Midway a few months back and it was about $170 IIRC. Shoots great. Or you can go with a target barrel that will require major slide and bushing fitting, but will shoot everything into the same hole for about the cost of a new gun. __________________ Never try to educate someone who resists knowledge at all costs. But what do I know? Summit Arms Services

July 26, 2007, 06:24 PM	#3
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,985	Frame: Re-anodizing can be done, or you can strip the old anodizing off by soaking it in Easy-Off oven cleaner. You can then hand-sand the scratches out, and leave it silver. Or, you can have the frame electroless nickel plated. You can also paint the frame with one of the gun paint finishes available, but it won't hold up well. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

July 27, 2007, 09:53 AM	#5
Bosshoff Senior Member Join Date: May 20, 2004 Posts: 173	I'd send it back to Springfield's Custom shop to see what they say. Tell them it is a carry weapon/shooter, not a target/race gun. They could fit a standard SS barrell, and at the same time maybe a bushing as well? This should not be too expensive. Additonally, they probably could give you some great options for refinishing the frame. __________________ Chop Chop!

July 27, 2007, 03:33 PM	#6
Harry Bonar Senior Member Join Date: December 5, 2004 Location: In the Vincent, Ohio general area. Posts: 1,804	frame battering Sir: Find a gunsmith that will do what I did on one that the guy just had to have a lightweight frame: I forget the diameter but it was close 1/2" drill rod. I plunge cut the feed ramp away and precision inserted the drill rod, pinned and loc-tighted it in and then milled the excess off and hand ground the new ramp - will never wear again - it really worked well! This must be done with a mill really due to the hole precision necessity! I think all lightweight frames ought to have this - all the lightweight frames I've seen are dimpled there (ones that have been shot, that is.) This really makes a lightweight frame a joy, less weight, better portability and it never dimples again - you can do it if you're careful - the rod goes in tight but I also pin it to ensure mechanical integrity. Harry B.

July 26, 2007, 09:05 PM	#4
Hunter Customs Senior Member Join Date: March 26, 2005 Location: Osborn, Missouri Posts: 2,697	It may be more then you want to spend, I would consider having the lower hardchromed. Hardchroming will wear better then other finishes, especially in humid areas. Most any good pistol smith should be able to fit a new barrel in your gun. If you attempt to do this yourself be sure and time the gun correctly. Regards Bob Hunter www.huntercustoms.com

July 27, 2007, 04:32 PM	#7
Jim Watson Senior Member Join Date: October 25, 2001 Location: Alabama Posts: 18,541	Harry, that is what Caspian did if you ordered an aluminum frame with steel feed ramp, back when they offered lightweights. Better than an integral ramp barrel, I think. SA would surely replace your barrel and refinish the gun. Their Armory Kote would probably do ok on aluminum, unless you wanted to hard chrome it... if Bob could tell you where to send it, most platers don't like to fool with aluminum.

July 27, 2007, 06:05 PM	#8
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,985	"Hard" chrome offers very little advantage on an alloy frame, as the aluminum can still dent underneath the plating. Plain aluminum is easier to maintain, and is the same color. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

July 27, 2007, 06:33 PM	#9
orionengnr Senior Member Join Date: July 9, 2004 Posts: 5,177	My used 3" Kimber Ultra Carry had the anodizing sanded off the feed ramp by a prior owner (or his agent) presumably in search of feed reliability. It probably fed well for a bit, but the soft aluminum alloy was exposed when I got it. Well under one hundred rounds later, I was heartsick. I had a very pricey paperweight, and A Big Problem. Fortunately, I found this thread: http://forums.1911forum.com/showthre...ht=ramp+insert I have nothing but good things to say about Rogers Precision and Chuck Rogers, and the way hey treated my Kimber. While it was there, I had the frame Cera-Koted black. It is now my favorite carry 1911. It is reliable, accurate and beautiful. If you want pics, email me (orionengnr at yahoo dot com) and I'll be happy to send some.

July 27, 2007, 06:41 PM	#10
Bill DeShivs Senior Member Join Date: April 7, 2006 Posts: 10,985	Anodizing aluminum is just like plating it. The subsurface is still soft. The hard layer is extremely thin and offers no real protection against wear. Feed angle is more important on alloy guns. If the angle is correct there will be little wear or dimpling. __________________ Bill DeShivs, Master Cutler www.billdeshivs.com

July 27, 2007, 06:52 PM	#11
oldbillthundercheif Junior member Join Date: April 21, 2006 Location: New Orleans Posts: 2,450	Let me make this very clear: My aluminum-frame gun has had thousands of rounds of hollowpoints through it (mostly Golden Sabres) with zero functioning issues and the aluminum around the steel feed-ramp looks exactly like it did over a decade and 100K rounds ago. I'm sure some people have had problems with aluminum-frame guns without barrels with steel feed-ramps, but mine has one and I'm not going to fix something that ain't broke. Lots of people who seem to know what they are talking about have said: "that aluminum frame will be all mangled within 100 rounds if you shoot Rem GSs through it" "get a steel insert or that thing will be unusable in a year" "don't you know that aluminum is too soft to handle frequent shooting?" and lots more... Bullpucks. If it needed any more steel I would have had a problem by now. It needs a new barrel and a refinishing job. Last edited by oldbillthundercheif; July 27, 2007 at 07:24 PM. Reason: typo

July 27, 2007, 06:59 PM	#12
ocharry Senior Member Join Date: October 20, 2006 Posts: 687	i would send it back to springfield and let them go through it,,, i bet you will like what they do for you my .02 ocharry

July 29, 2007, 02:35 AM	#13
oldbillthundercheif Junior member Join Date: April 21, 2006 Location: New Orleans Posts: 2,450	The more I look at my Hi-Power the more I wonder what this particular 1911 would look like with a high-gloss black finish that looks faintly blue-black in bright light. Would it be easy or hard to get a finish of this type on both the steel slide and aluminum frame? I'm guessing it would be difficult and expensive to get them to match perfectly, but that's just a gut reaction... Has anyone tried this with good results? I'm not sure I've ever seen a glossy black 1911 much less one made out of two very different metals.