Prepping Brass

[dbomb]

Ok so I almost got all my gear and working up the steps to make sure I do this right. I will be working with a Hornady Progressive LNL AP.

My question is, after you tumble the brass, you have to Size and decap then measure. But on a progressive I guess that means only put the size/decap die first, and wait till you are done will the brass. Because after sizing/decaping you have to measure the lenght of the case to make sure it doesnt need any trimming, before moving on to the next step in the progressive press.

I hope I made sense if not let me know

Thanks.

[WESHOOT2]

trimming not required for 45 ACP

[ForneyRider]

never trimmed 45 ACP or 41 Mag, even with stout loads.

I throw the fired brass in tumbler, then put in brass loader on the progressive.

Generally, progressive is 3-die setup with the following stations:
1) decap, resize die
2) prime, charge, flair.
3) bullet seat, crimp.

Additional stations for separating bullet seat and crimp, and a powder checking station (with Hornady, RCBS or Dillon powder checking die) are common.

[dbomb]

ForneyRider, so after step1 for .223 you have to take out of the progressive to measure length correct?

step 1 will decap and resize, then have to measure with caliper to make sure it size is correct before moving on. I'm just wondering if there is an easier way, but I think thats just the way its done.

[rn22723]

My routine for reloading rifle rounds on a progressive press.

#1 clean brass so as not to wreck sizer die with crap
#2 I lube with imperial die wax, and I size on Redding T7, but you can size on a progressive with no problem
#3 then I polish the brass
#4 then I do all the prep of the brass....trimming and deburring/chamfering in a Giraud, one time dealing with primer pocket crimps if needed, one time flash hole deburring, one time primer pocket uniforming serves as cleaning, too, but if the brass has it done then I clean primer pocket.. I store the brass in a ready to load state.

So then I throw a universal decapper in the first station in lieu of sizer die to remove errant tumbling media or other debris

I then use the press in progressive fashion.

[Lilswede1]

I bought a second press, a cheap Lee for $30 and a decapping sizing die.
Now I run my once fired brass through it first. (Case length will change slightly in the sizing die - it will get up to a few .000" longer).
If it is the first time around for this brass, I
Clean and seat primer pocket
Deburr flash hole
Clean neck with brush.
Size case to 1.750 and deburr same.
Then I run brass through tumbler, knock out any media hung up in the flash hole with a ball point pen, and my brass is ready for loading on my Dillon 550B Progressive.
After first reload, I no longer deburr flash hole and use a Wilson Case Gage to moniter length.
This is a lot of monkeying around, but I am new and doing the above gives me plenty of time to inspect cases and look for any possible problems.

[ForneyRider]

yea, I have a Pro 1000, so I can do short rifle like .223 and .22-250.

I have a single stage that I decap with using a universal decapper.
I do that before putting on the progressive.
lately, I have been pulling off my full-length resizer die and put it on the single stage to resize.

Then I use my Lee zip-trim to measure/trim and chamfer.

I usually hand-prime, so my stages on the progressive are regulated to powder charge, and bullet seating. I've gotten quite a bit better with the chute system of the Lee Progressive and have slowly migrated to priming on the press.

[dbomb]

Ok, so after all I guess I will start with a single stage just cause the progressive will not save a much time for a beginner. I will go through the steps and see how it goes.
Thanks all for the info.

[F. Guffey]

Dbomb, the correct answer is illusive, if you size first then trim, the pilot on the case trimmer will stick and or be too large in diameter for the sized case, if you trim first then size you have to know where the brass goes when sized, is the excess brass pushed out the top of the die or is the case compressed between the shoulder and the head of the case, or both. I measure before sizing , then after, I have had cases squat (compress) .040 thousands when necking up from 280 to 35 Whelen. Maximum case length on the 30/06, for example, is 2.496, the trim length is about .010 less, 2.486, if you trim first then size when using the trim-to length you are safe, the case can not get longer when sized unless the case requires a lot of sizing, in that case, apply the leaver policy, when the shoulder moves out, leaver out (but that is for another day). Then there is the compound factor as in more than two things going on at the same time, no one know the length of the chamber from the face of the bolt to the end of the chamber at the mouth, and head space can be added to the case length between the shoulder of the case to the head of the case. I trim first with a file, for the most part I have forming/trim dies, trim first then size, that way I do not have to grind the pilot to fit a sized case and cases come out + or - .001.

Build a LIMBO gage, support a straight edge that is tall on one end and shorter on the other by .010 thousands, slide the cases under to determine height (standing), the LIMBO gage will not tell you the length of the case, seperate cases by height for too long, too short and for crimping purposes and trimming.

F. Guffey

[dbomb]

Wow, had to read that a couple of times lol. but I think I got most of it. So what was the other thing about "when the sholder moves ,out leaver out"?