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Old June 24, 2011, 12:30 AM   #1
Woodencardboard
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School me on the .300 weatherby magnum

I just bought a vanguard in this beautiful chambering and after buying 1 box of factory ammo at $63.00 I've decided I need to reload it. I've been reloading for awhile but I was wondering if you guys who have experience with this cartridge could Share your tips, tricks, and loads with me. Thanks for any and all info

Tim
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Old June 24, 2011, 11:19 AM   #2
rg1
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First and most important is to buy a case gauge to measure shoulder set-back when adjusting your sizing die. Even though the belted magnum has the belt for headspace, it's critical to have the case headspace off the shoulder of the case just like a non-belted caliber. If you don't you'll only get approx. 3 loadings before your case could stretch just in front of the belt and you could get case separations. Search for "sizing belted magnum cases".
Some good powders are Norma MRP, Alliant Reloder 22, IMR 7828. Use nothing but Federal 215 large rifle magnum primers. Follow book loads but remember that some cases such as Remington or Federal have slightly less case capacity than does factory Weatherby and powder charges should be reduced. Bullets in 165-180 seem to be best but mine shoots 150 grain bullets well. Not a fun gun to plink with off the bench. Wear padding on the shoulder to work up loads. You won't notice the recoil hunting but a few rounds off the bench will start hurting and make you flinch. Start low and work up powder charges. No need to push the maximum in the 300 Wea. Try both flat based and boat-tailed bullets. Your rifle may prefer one over the other.
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Old June 24, 2011, 12:42 PM   #3
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New .300 WEATH. MAG

Congratulations on the purchase of that awesome howa 1500 rifle. Other than remington bolt actions, the howa 1500 is a close runner-up. My sincerest advice to you is not about the ammo, but reducing the muzzle climb you will experience.

Strongly recommend you remove the barreled action from the stock, remove the scope, bases, & rings. Then ship it to "mag-na-port international" to have the barrel ported in their original manner, not a muzzle-brake, but the original "edm" ports.

Welcome to the fraternity of the brotherhood of reloaders.

RELOADING ADVICE: START WITH A 150 / 165 GR. BULLET (nosler or hornady polymer tip). WINCHESTER LARGE RIFLE PRIMERS. USE THE LIGHTEST RECOMMENDED LOAD OF WHATEVER BRAND OF RIFLE POWDER YOU CHOOSE. LIGHT LOADS WITH THAT CARTRIDGE IS EQUAL TO A FULL-POWER .30-06. THESE LIGHT LOADS ARE EASIER ON THE SHOULDER, CHEAPER ON YOUR WALLET, & WILL HARVEST GAME EASILY UP TO CARIBOU. IF YOU NEED SOMETHING WITH MORE MOXIE, THEN MOVE UP TO A 180 GR. BULLET & INCREASE THE POWDER CHARGE ACCORDINGLY. START SLOW & WORK YOUR WAY UP THE POWER SCALE AT AN EASY PACE.

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Last edited by GURU1911; June 24, 2011 at 04:26 PM.
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Old June 24, 2011, 11:49 PM   #4
Woodencardboard
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Thanks guys. I really thought about porting the barrel or putting a break on It buy Ive been ok with the recoil thus far. I've put about a dozen rounds down the tube one at a time, cleaning, and cooling before the next and I'm getting 100yd groups well within 1.5". Thanks again

Tim
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Old June 25, 2011, 12:50 AM   #5
rg1
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Here's some info from a Weatherby load chart. Note all bullets are Hornady or Nosler. Powders are IMR 4350, Hodgdon H-4831 (not IMR) and Norma MRP.
All cases are factory Weatherby and Fed 215 primers. 26" barrel

110 gr. --IMR 4350-86 grains--3726fps--48950 pressure
-------------------88--------3798-----51180
-------------------90--------3863-----53460
factory duplication load Norma 203--3900fps---53460
__________________________________
130 gr. IMR4350--82-------3488------49540
84-------3567------52570
86-------3627------54730
_______________________________________
150gr IMR4350--80------3343--------48000----muzzle energy ft lbs 3710
82-------3458--------52380-------------3981
_____________________________________
150gr Hodgdon H-4831--84----3305-----47620--------------3632
86----3394-----51990--------------3831
88----3470-----54570--------------4004
___________________________________________
150 gr factory duplication load Norma MRP---88--3545fps--53490--4185 ftlb
______________________________________
180 gr IMR 4350----77 grains----3066fps------50830----3755 ftlbs
78-----------3110--------53130-----3857
79-----------3145--------53610-----3946
______________
180 gr Hodgdon H4831--80-----3060-------50240--------3742
82------3145-------54310-------3946
_____________________________
180gr factory duplication Norma MRP----81.8 ---------3245---51800--4208
___________
200 gr Nosler---factory duplication--Norma MRP-77.2---3000--49000-3996
___________
200 Nosler----Hodgdon H4831---76 grains----2858fps---46480----3632
78---------2926-------50620----3800
_____________
220 gr. Norma MRP ----77.2-------2905fps-----52850------4122 ft lbs
___________
220 gr. Hodgdon H4831------74---------2740----47920----3667
76---------2800----51060-----3830
This info is from an old Weatherby data sheet and for comparison only. The top loads and especially the factory duplication loads are warm. Start low and work up. The bullets are Hornady except the Nosler listed. Remington or other than Weatherby cases may need about one to two grains less powder. Use this info for comparison to other manuals before using. Velocity in a 24" barrel is approx. 90 fps less. Chart says no loads over 55000 psi.

Last edited by rg1; June 25, 2011 at 01:44 AM.
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Old June 26, 2011, 03:19 PM   #6
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One of the reasons some of us got into reloading is the price of some factory loads for these magnum rifles.

The best factory load I have used for the 300 WBY was the rem 180 corelokts. 30-40$

Best reload is:

The Sierra accuracy/hunting load for the 180 using:

180 Barnes TTSX
R-25 Powder use the Sierra accuracy load
Any brass ( I use new Nosler) or once fired rem
Fed 215M (match) primer [it does matter]

1-2" groups at 200 is normal.

you might get 5 out before the barrel heats up so I shoot 3 shot groups when working up loads. You will experience loose primer pockets after 2-4 reloadings for high$ brass. It's not cheap...

Weatherbys are known for a lot of freebore to make loading to the lands impracticle. Settle on a full length sized case and under mag length load. I use a lee crimp die into the last grove of the Barnes 180 TTSX for stability and a consistent pressure for accuracy. No movement of the unfired bullets in the case.

The difference between a neck sized and full sized is irrevelant. Learning to shoot this gun without a flinch is more important for accuracy.. The full length sized brass will always chamber when it matters most.
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Last edited by A_Gamehog; June 30, 2011 at 12:12 PM.
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Old September 7, 2012, 05:50 AM   #7
U.L.Grant
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old thread but worth revisiting

QUOTE:
June 24, 2011, 01:42 PM #3
GURU1911
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New .300 WEATH. MAG
Welcome to the fraternity of the brotherhood of reloaders.
RELOADING ADVICE: START WITH A 150 / 165 GR. BULLET (nosler or hornady polymer tip). WINCHESTER LARGE RIFLE PRIMERS. USE THE LIGHTEST RECOMMENDED LOAD OF WHATEVER BRAND OF RIFLE POWDER YOU CHOOSE. LIGHT LOADS WITH THAT CARTRIDGE IS EQUAL TO A FULL-POWER .30-06. THESE LIGHT LOADS ARE EASIER ON THE SHOULDER, CHEAPER ON YOUR WALLET, & WILL HARVEST GAME EASILY UP TO CARIBOU. IF YOU NEED SOMETHING WITH MORE MOXIE, THEN MOVE UP TO A 180 GR. BULLET & INCREASE THE POWDER CHARGE ACCORDINGLY. START SLOW & WORK YOUR WAY UP THE POWER SCALE AT AN EASY PACE.
Guru1911



this is the best reloading advice for the 300 Wby Magnum, and applies to any caliber for that matter. Don't go right for the fastest powder and maximum capacity load, nor the heaviest bullet and maximum load. The price to be paid is, high pressure, and heavy recoil, and more wear/tear on the gun's locking lugs and action.

The sensible way to reload for a magnum, if such words apply at all, is start with the slowest powder and the starter minimum load, and the lighter bullets such as 130-150 grain, esp. to just sight the gun in and see how it shoots. Those loads are surely powerful enough to put a hole in paper, and take medium game.

and as the fella said, the reduced loads will still harvest the majority of medium/big game. If you're going after the really big and dangerous stuff, then load up some full house loads, or just keep two boxes of factory ammo with heavy bullets around, for that purpose.
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Old September 7, 2012, 07:56 AM   #8
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Use premium brass such as Norma or Weatherby brand. Most others will only reload 1 or 2 times and necks will start spliting.

Resize the brass to fit your rifle chamber. Turn the die down in small increments till you can close the bolt with little resistance. A case gage and your chamber may not be the same.

After you are comfortable shooting the rifle use full power loads. That is why you have a Weatherby Magnum.
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Old September 8, 2012, 06:56 AM   #9
Bart B.
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It's been my experience and that of others using belted cases in competition that best accuracy and longest case life comes about with full length sizing dies with their neck diameters 2 to 3 thousandths smaller than a loaded round's neck diameter. Bushing dies set in the press to push fired case shoulders back a couple thousandths do this best. Sierra Bullets uses Redding bushing dies on their belted cases testing bullets for accuracy:

http://www.redding-reloading.com/onl...s-bushing-dies

When the bolt doesn't close freely an a chambered round (a little binding is felt), accuracy sufferes. The reason is the bolt doesn't close back to the same place for each shot and this tends to degrade accuracy by 1/4 to 1/2 MOA with belted cases. So a case headspace gauge (RCBS Precision Mic or equivalent) is needed to measure fired cases before they're sized then again afterwords to see how much the case shoulder's set back.

One other die is invaluable for best accuracy as well as case life. It's needed to size the little ridge in front of the belt that happens when the case is first fired. Regular full length sizing dies don't size the case body all the way back to the belt. After first using a full length sizing die, next use a belted magnum collet die set in the press to size the case body all the way to the belt. One can get 20 reloads per case using a regular die followed by this collet die on belted cases.

www.larrywillis.com
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Old September 9, 2012, 11:12 AM   #10
Jimro
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Good advice all around here.

If you plan on reloading a lot, you could get some of the "slow ball powders" like WC867 or WC872 from Wideners, often on sale for 40 bucks per 8 lbs. Similar burn rate to H870 or AA8700. I've been using WC872 in 6.5x55.

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