Muzzle Brake Removal, Arsenal AK47

kkayser · January 4, 2014, 12:17 PM

The rifle is an Arsenal about 2 yrs old. It has had about 700 rounds through it. I would like to remove the brake. The brake is kept from turning with a spring loaded pin. I can see through the pin mating slot that the threads are RH. I have tried Aerokroil for about 3 weeks. Aerokroil has been applied daily, but, no kroil has come out of the other end of the threads yet. The brake is still dead tight. I have not tried heat yet, but am not optimistic. The threaded part of the brake is fairly thin so that heat will be transferred to the male threaded piece and both threads will expand at about the same rate.

I have two questions:

1. What is the max torque I can apply without fear of bending something. (I am supporting the sight for counter-torque.)?
2. Is is acceptable practice to use an impact wrench?

Wyosmith · January 4, 2014, 12:53 PM

You do know it's a left hand thread don't you?

kkayser · January 4, 2014, 05:52 PM

It is an RH thread. I can see the slope of the threads in the slot. Furthermore it is identical to my ak74 brake, which can be removed by turning CCW (looking into the muzzle). It is a moot point, however because there is at least a full turn (CW) before the brake contacts the sight.

kk

Wyosmith · January 4, 2014, 07:16 PM

OK, now I understand. The 74 breaks are indeed RH Thread.
The ones I have seen "stuck" responded well to being stood muzzle down in a can of Hoppies #9 for a day of so. Use enough to cover the threaded portion and that will usually make them turn loose.

Dfariswheel · January 4, 2014, 09:03 PM

The problem is that the carbon fouling literally "solders" the brake on if it's not removed and cleaned fairly often.
This can cause major problems with getting a brake off at all if it's been left too long.

As above, soaking in a bore solvent for a few days, or doing the same thing with Kroil by standing the muzzle in a small can and filling it with the solvent or Kroil will help.
To help things along, use a hard plastic hammer or heavy screwdriver handle to give the brake sharp raps all around the brake to help break the carbon fouling bond, and allow the vibrations to help the solvent or Kroil to penetrate.
The brakes are always slightly loose when clean and have some wobble.
The sharp raps all around will help.

You can stick a bar through the brake to use as an assist handle, but how much pressure you can use without bending the brake is a matter of feel.

WardenWolf · January 7, 2014, 01:49 PM

My recommendation is to insert a shaft through the vents of the brake, fully through side to side, and use that to help get it off. AK-74 brakes are normally pretty loose, to the point where Teflon may be needed to reduce play for best shooting consistency. As an added benefit, Tefloning the threads in the future will prevent carbon from getting in there and causing this problem again.

Venom1956 · January 8, 2014, 11:46 AM

Damn beaten to it! Shaft in the break if hand can't do It a mallet on the shaft should break it loose.

kkayser · January 16, 2014, 09:30 AM

I hit an 18 inch steel bar with mallet and the mallet just bounced. Brake is as tight as ever.

Wyosmith · January 16, 2014, 09:34 AM

As a last resort you can heat it with a torch. I find that will do it every time, but you have to get them over 600 degrees. Did you try the soak yet?

kkayser · January 17, 2014, 08:51 AM

I have been feeding various solvents into the threads for about a month now. the only thing I actually soaked it in was 5-56. I will try Hoppes next.

I think I will try an impact wrench before I try a torch. Has anyone listening done that?

January 4, 2014, 12:17 PM	#1
kkayser Junior Member Join Date: June 6, 2013 Posts: 6	Muzzle Brake Removal, Arsenal AK47 The rifle is an Arsenal about 2 yrs old. It has had about 700 rounds through it. I would like to remove the brake. The brake is kept from turning with a spring loaded pin. I can see through the pin mating slot that the threads are RH. I have tried Aerokroil for about 3 weeks. Aerokroil has been applied daily, but, no kroil has come out of the other end of the threads yet. The brake is still dead tight. I have not tried heat yet, but am not optimistic. The threaded part of the brake is fairly thin so that heat will be transferred to the male threaded piece and both threads will expand at about the same rate. I have two questions: 1. What is the max torque I can apply without fear of bending something. (I am supporting the sight for counter-torque.)? 2. Is is acceptable practice to use an impact wrench?

January 4, 2014, 05:52 PM	#3
kkayser Junior Member Join Date: June 6, 2013 Posts: 6	RH thread It is an RH thread. I can see the slope of the threads in the slot. Furthermore it is identical to my ak74 brake, which can be removed by turning CCW (looking into the muzzle). It is a moot point, however because there is at least a full turn (CW) before the brake contacts the sight. kk

January 8, 2014, 11:46 AM	#7
Venom1956 Senior Member Join Date: October 4, 2008 Location: WI Posts: 3,656	Damn beaten to it! Shaft in the break if hand can't do It a mallet on the shaft should break it loose. __________________ E-Shock rounds are engineered to expend maximum energy into soft targets, turning the density mass into an expanding rotational cone of NyTrilium matrix particles, causing neurological collapse to the central nervous system.- Yeah I can do that. I guarantee you will know it if a bicyclist hits your house going 1000 mph. -Smaug

January 16, 2014, 09:30 AM	#8
kkayser Junior Member Join Date: June 6, 2013 Posts: 6	bounced I hit an 18 inch steel bar with mallet and the mallet just bounced. Brake is as tight as ever.

January 17, 2014, 08:51 AM	#10
kkayser Junior Member Join Date: June 6, 2013 Posts: 6	Has anyone used an impact wrench? I have been feeding various solvents into the threads for about a month now. the only thing I actually soaked it in was 5-56. I will try Hoppes next. I think I will try an impact wrench before I try a torch. Has anyone listening done that?

January 4, 2014, 12:53 PM	#2
Wyosmith Senior Member Join Date: December 29, 2010 Location: Shoshoni Wyoming Posts: 2,713	You do know it's a left hand thread don't you?

January 4, 2014, 07:16 PM	#4
Wyosmith Senior Member Join Date: December 29, 2010 Location: Shoshoni Wyoming Posts: 2,713	OK, now I understand. The 74 breaks are indeed RH Thread. The ones I have seen "stuck" responded well to being stood muzzle down in a can of Hoppies #9 for a day of so. Use enough to cover the threaded portion and that will usually make them turn loose.

January 4, 2014, 09:03 PM	#5
Dfariswheel Senior Member Join Date: May 4, 2001 Posts: 7,478	The problem is that the carbon fouling literally "solders" the brake on if it's not removed and cleaned fairly often. This can cause major problems with getting a brake off at all if it's been left too long. As above, soaking in a bore solvent for a few days, or doing the same thing with Kroil by standing the muzzle in a small can and filling it with the solvent or Kroil will help. To help things along, use a hard plastic hammer or heavy screwdriver handle to give the brake sharp raps all around the brake to help break the carbon fouling bond, and allow the vibrations to help the solvent or Kroil to penetrate. The brakes are always slightly loose when clean and have some wobble. The sharp raps all around will help. You can stick a bar through the brake to use as an assist handle, but how much pressure you can use without bending the brake is a matter of feel.

January 7, 2014, 01:49 PM	#6
WardenWolf Junior member Join Date: December 12, 2013 Location: Northern Virginia Posts: 135	My recommendation is to insert a shaft through the vents of the brake, fully through side to side, and use that to help get it off. AK-74 brakes are normally pretty loose, to the point where Teflon may be needed to reduce play for best shooting consistency. As an added benefit, Tefloning the threads in the future will prevent carbon from getting in there and causing this problem again.

January 16, 2014, 09:34 AM	#9
Wyosmith Senior Member Join Date: December 29, 2010 Location: Shoshoni Wyoming Posts: 2,713	As a last resort you can heat it with a torch. I find that will do it every time, but you have to get them over 600 degrees. Did you try the soak yet?