Model 29-3 Manual

[rijoe]

I have just picked up a Model 29-3. The gun is in great shape and looks brand new. But there is no manual.

Does anyone know where I can find one?

Any help/direction would be most appreciated.

Thanks,
Joe

[big al hunter]

Click on "manuals" http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/w...4_757812_image if you don't find it there contact customer service.

[rijoe]

Thanks Big Al.

I took a look and the manual is rather generic for 'Revolvers Modern Style".

I would have thought that there would be specific manuals for each model. If I am wrong, it would not be the first time!

I take it, as I believe my gun was made after 1980, it can be considered a Modern Style?

Again, thanks for the quick response.

Joe

[g.willikers]

Apparently, that's the only manual available.
Other than the lock, it's close enough.
For an additional parts view -
http://www.brownells.com/schematics/...-3-sid650.aspx

For a real manual:
http://www.brownells.com/books-video...prod25717.aspx

[drcook]

there is a guy "Steve" that posts up manuals for people to access in PDF format. unfortunately S&W's attorney DEMANDED he remove S&W manuals from his site

http://stevespages.com/page7b.htm

if you need other manuals though, here is the link. make sure you call or write and let S&W know how nice they were to do that.

[Webleymkv]

Pretty much any revolver with a swing-out cylinder is considered "modern style" by S&W, the "old style" refers to top-breaks. With the exception of some very minor changes, your 29-3 works the same basic way as a Triple-Lock made in 1907 or a brand-new 629 made yesterday. The barrel, cylinder, trigger, hammer, ejector rod, and thumbpiece are all in the same places and are manipulated the same way as they've always been. The reason that S&W's manual seems generic is because it's much simpler and easier to write one manual for all models and then add sections for models that are exceptions.

[SgtLumpy]

I think a manual is several pages of mfg liability stuff like "Always wear eyes and ears" "Don't point it here or there" "Lock it up when not in use" etc. Then it goes on to describe how the bullets go in one end and when you pull the thingie right there, they come out the other end.

I've never owned a S&W with a frame lock so I don't know what that part might cover. But I can't really imagine there's anything earth shattering in a revolver owner's manual.

Am I missing anything?


Sgt Lumpy

[Mike Irwin]

"I would have thought that there would be specific manuals for each model. If I am wrong, it would not be the first time!"

You're wrong.

S&W's revolvers are so similar in design and operation that about 99% of what would be in one model's manual would be in all of the manuals, so why go to the inventory expense of creating a dozen or more different manuals?

[PetahW]

.

Should you ever decide to take a peek @ the innards (or clean/oil, etc), whatever you do, please don't try to pry out the sideplate after removing the screws (it's fitted VERY closely) - Just hold the gun by the gripframe & tap on the frame/bbl (vibrate the gun) with a plastic hammer or screwdriver handle until the sideplate loosens itself.

To do otherwise can easily ruin a fine revolver.

FWIW - I hunted Whitetails for about 10 years with an 8-3/8" Model 29-3, I bought new, and can tell you that they're capable of very good accuracy.




.

[BigJimP]

This DVD probably taught me more about the inner workings on a revolver than any manuals or other reference books.

I think its a good addition to a gun library...for a S&W revolver guy.../ even if you don't want to or have any intention of doing a trigger job on one of your revolvers.

http://www.brownells.com/books-video...-prod8751.aspx

[rijoe]

Thank you everyone for your replies and willingness to share.

Good points about having or not having separate manuals for each model makes sense.

At this point in time, I do not plan on disassembling it but in the future, who knows. I might work up the courage to do so.

I will check out the included links on manuals and parts lists.

I will take what has been shared to heart and not do anything that could ruin a fine piece.

And as this is my first revolver, do not be surprised if I post more questions!

Again, thanks for your help.

Joe

[James K]

Sometimes, people asking about manuals want a detailed book with complete disassembly instructions, and illustrated diagrams of how to work on the gun, sort of like a Chiltons for guns. Some such books exist, but you won't get them from the manufacturer. Makers generally aren't overjoyed about having owners working on their guns, mainly because too many people who fix their own guns really fix their guns and then demand the factory repair them free of charge.

For the needs of user instructions, the generic manual is perfectly adequate.

Jim

[rijoe]

Jim,

I completely understand your point. As this was my first revolver, I wanted to be sure that I had all of the info that the manufacture wanted you to have. Nothing more than that.

I am of the mindset that I know what I know but more importantly I know what I don't know.

If it is beyond the normal cleaning and maintenance recommended by the maker, I leave that to the experts. Just like I leave my car repairs to the experts.

Thanks for responding.

Joe

[Mike Irwin]

The beautiful thing about Smith & Wesson revolvers is that they're simple and, if you do screw something up internally, replacement parts are easy to come by.

I taught myself how to tear down Smiths by doing.

It wasn't until much later that I got Jerry Kuhnhausen's shop manual and taught myself how to do action jobs ranging from replacing springs to polishing the internals to recutting the single-action sear (and case hardening it) on a hammer that someone before me had screwed up.

[4V50 Gary]

The beautiful thing about Smith & Wesson revolvers is that they're simple and, if you do screw something up internally, replacement parts are easy to come by.

One of my instructors said, "S&W got it right the first time."

[Mike Irwin]

"One of my instructors said, "S&W got it right the first time."

I'd say the second time, really.

The original 1896 (I frame) and 1899 (K frame) hand ejectors changed SIGNIFICANTLY in a very short period of time.

By about 1905, though, the guns are pretty what they are today.

A friend of mine has a Model of 1902 I frame .32, and its internals are just... well, the best way I can put it is freaky.