Shotgun Lubrication

StanA · November 7, 1999, 01:38 AM

Hey every one I was cleaning my Moss500 yesterday and was wondering on the proper and recomended ways to lube? I have a Glock hand gun and know that it is to be cleaned real good and lubed very little just in the right spots. But on the shot gun I am still learning. I don't normaly use a grease but do you need to with a shot gun? And what areas should I focus on most? It looks a little dry cleaning it as if it my Glock. I have not got a manual yet from Mossberg on it. I have no idea I guess it would show you in there manual? Thanks for your help Stan..

[This message has been edited by StanA (edited November 07, 1999).]

Coinneach · November 8, 1999, 02:06 PM

StanA,

I use Mobil1 Synthetic (yes, motor oil) on all my guns, including my 500.

I put one drop on the outside edges of the bolt carrier (where it rides on the inside of the receiver), and one drop on the action bars. Be careful to not get any oil in the mag tube, of course. Work the action a few times, and you should be set.

HTH.

------------------
"The right of no person to keep and bear arms in defense of his home, person and property, or in aid of the civil power when thereto legally summoned, shall be called in question.." Article 11, Section 13, CO state constitution.

Beano · November 8, 1999, 05:16 PM

Hi Stan,

If you are going to be paying regular attention to your shotgun, then any light oil that is moisture repellant can be used to lubricate.Take special care to wipe all exposed blued areas (i.e. areas that may have been touched) after each use. Body oils and perspiration will cause rust quicker than you believe. However, a shotgun likes to be dry inside. Oil and or grease collect powder residues, dirt and assorted rubbish within the workings of your weapon. This can lead to malfunctions and little annoyances like feed jams. Therefore, spray/wipe on, wipe clean and wipe dry. (most modern shotguns have stainless steel, titanium or chromed internals which will not rust)

It also helps to be competent taking the gun apart and then rebuilding it after it has been thoroughly cleaned.

If you are storing the gun after a duck season, etc., thoroughly clean it and then wipe a very thin layer of moisture repellant grease on the blued parts. This should keep it fine until the start of the next season, and will wipe off with paper towels.

More importantly, a good solvent down the barrel which dissolves plastic, powder and lead residues is vital as these can pit the chamber and the barrel. This ruins the gun. Again, decent quality new shotguns should come standard with a chrome lined barrel.

Always lubricate/grease choke tubes especially if you're not one to change chokes regularly. A stuck choke can be a nightmare.

Back to the original question. Keep'er clean and dry inside, loaded with 1 1/4 or bigger loads. Auto's are less likely to jam with heavier loads. (If its a pump this is not as important)
ENJOY YOUR SHOTGUNNING, try ISSF Skeet.

Big Bunny · November 8, 1999, 08:45 PM

Also a loose (well greased?) choke can splay out with wad pressure and have to be collapsed (inside) to remove it by your friendly local gunsmith. A new quite expensive choke was therefore needed by our local newboy trapshooter!
Any blood should be wiped off the bluing immediately, as it is a sure-fire way to get a visit by the 'man with the red paintpot' to appear ...as too is salt or brackish water, of course.
Also watch UNDER the removable chokes, I have found water and corrosion there on my Winchester M120. Silicone grease may be OK there...like the ones they use on fishing reels.
Also incidentially never fire with no choke screwed in. A friend needed a cyl choke and only had a full, so he removed the full and fired shots at fast moving bunnies in summer grasses. [ and he spent 3 hours cleaning the barrel threads of wad-plastic at home !] Be warned by these exploits...but have fun.

------------------
***Big Bunny***

Bruegger · November 9, 1999, 04:30 PM

I was under the impression that you should never use oil-type lubricants on your choke tubes, only stuff like graphite. Can't even recall the reasoning for this.

house · November 9, 1999, 04:41 PM

I use an oil called RIG Universal r-101
great stuff i use it on all my guns, works great for metal on metal friction

Beano · November 9, 1999, 10:41 PM

Hello Folks,

Wasn't advocating shooting with loose chokes Big Bunny. Sorry. Really meant that if you were putting the gun away, that part of the cleaning is to remove and clean the choke. I put some grease on mine so that I never have any problems.

The other thing is this. It is good to get into the habit of considering chokes as part of the shooting routine. Pick up the gun to go shooting, check the choke. First is it the right choke for the application, second is it tight. If you shoot shotguns regularly, this is second nature as you don't neccessarily want to be shooting duck with your cylinder choke that you shot skeet with yesterday.

Anyway, ENJOY SHOTGUNNING and try ISSF Skeet.

Big Bunny · November 14, 1999, 08:33 PM

That was the main point of my posting Beano, a convertionally lubricated choke can lead to loseness, but your remarks on checking and maintenance are very pertinent, if only most ordinary shotgunners carried them out regularly !
I suppose my remarks were more appropriate to a new-chum or tyro - not the experienced specialist discipline expert sporter you are so obviously.
Stan was not really in that league and I (perhaps erroniously) thought he needed any help we collectively could give him, so I gave him my 10c worth.

But graphite on choke threads has my OK !

------------------
***Big Bunny***

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November 7, 1999, 01:38 AM	#1
StanA Member Join Date: June 26, 1999 Posts: 32	Hey every one I was cleaning my Moss500 yesterday and was wondering on the proper and recomended ways to lube? I have a Glock hand gun and know that it is to be cleaned real good and lubed very little just in the right spots. But on the shot gun I am still learning. I don't normaly use a grease but do you need to with a shot gun? And what areas should I focus on most? It looks a little dry cleaning it as if it my Glock. I have not got a manual yet from Mossberg on it. I have no idea I guess it would show you in there manual? Thanks for your help Stan.. [This message has been edited by StanA (edited November 07, 1999).]

November 8, 1999, 02:06 PM	#2
Coinneach Staff Alumnus Join Date: February 23, 1999 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 4,272	StanA, I use Mobil1 Synthetic (yes, motor oil) on all my guns, including my 500. I put one drop on the outside edges of the bolt carrier (where it rides on the inside of the receiver), and one drop on the action bars. Be careful to not get any oil in the mag tube, of course. Work the action a few times, and you should be set. HTH. ------------------ "The right of no person to keep and bear arms in defense of his home, person and property, or in aid of the civil power when thereto legally summoned, shall be called in question.." Article 11, Section 13, CO state constitution.

November 8, 1999, 05:16 PM	#3
Beano Member Join Date: October 29, 1999 Location: Barbados Posts: 28	Hi Stan, If you are going to be paying regular attention to your shotgun, then any light oil that is moisture repellant can be used to lubricate.Take special care to wipe all exposed blued areas (i.e. areas that may have been touched) after each use. Body oils and perspiration will cause rust quicker than you believe. However, a shotgun likes to be dry inside. Oil and or grease collect powder residues, dirt and assorted rubbish within the workings of your weapon. This can lead to malfunctions and little annoyances like feed jams. Therefore, spray/wipe on, wipe clean and wipe dry. (most modern shotguns have stainless steel, titanium or chromed internals which will not rust) It also helps to be competent taking the gun apart and then rebuilding it after it has been thoroughly cleaned. If you are storing the gun after a duck season, etc., thoroughly clean it and then wipe a very thin layer of moisture repellant grease on the blued parts. This should keep it fine until the start of the next season, and will wipe off with paper towels. More importantly, a good solvent down the barrel which dissolves plastic, powder and lead residues is vital as these can pit the chamber and the barrel. This ruins the gun. Again, decent quality new shotguns should come standard with a chrome lined barrel. Always lubricate/grease choke tubes especially if you're not one to change chokes regularly. A stuck choke can be a nightmare. Back to the original question. Keep'er clean and dry inside, loaded with 1 1/4 or bigger loads. Auto's are less likely to jam with heavier loads. (If its a pump this is not as important) ENJOY YOUR SHOTGUNNING, try ISSF Skeet.

November 8, 1999, 08:45 PM	#4
Big Bunny Senior Member Join Date: August 9, 1999 Location: New South Wales - Australia Posts: 605	Also a loose (well greased?) choke can splay out with wad pressure and have to be collapsed (inside) to remove it by your friendly local gunsmith. A new quite expensive choke was therefore needed by our local newboy trapshooter! Any blood should be wiped off the bluing immediately, as it is a sure-fire way to get a visit by the 'man with the red paintpot' to appear ...as too is salt or brackish water, of course. Also watch UNDER the removable chokes, I have found water and corrosion there on my Winchester M120. Silicone grease may be OK there...like the ones they use on fishing reels. Also incidentially never fire with no choke screwed in. A friend needed a cyl choke and only had a full, so he removed the full and fired shots at fast moving bunnies in summer grasses. [ and he spent 3 hours cleaning the barrel threads of wad-plastic at home !] Be warned by these exploits...but have fun. ------------------ *Big Bunny*

November 9, 1999, 04:30 PM	#5
Bruegger Senior Member Join Date: September 14, 1999 Location: Indiana Posts: 637	I was under the impression that you should never use oil-type lubricants on your choke tubes, only stuff like graphite. Can't even recall the reasoning for this.

November 9, 1999, 04:41 PM	#6
house Senior Member Join Date: October 21, 1999 Location: AZ/CA Posts: 369	I use an oil called RIG Universal r-101 great stuff i use it on all my guns, works great for metal on metal friction

November 9, 1999, 10:41 PM	#7
Beano Member Join Date: October 29, 1999 Location: Barbados Posts: 28	Hello Folks, Wasn't advocating shooting with loose chokes Big Bunny. Sorry. Really meant that if you were putting the gun away, that part of the cleaning is to remove and clean the choke. I put some grease on mine so that I never have any problems. The other thing is this. It is good to get into the habit of considering chokes as part of the shooting routine. Pick up the gun to go shooting, check the choke. First is it the right choke for the application, second is it tight. If you shoot shotguns regularly, this is second nature as you don't neccessarily want to be shooting duck with your cylinder choke that you shot skeet with yesterday. Anyway, ENJOY SHOTGUNNING and try ISSF Skeet.

November 14, 1999, 08:33 PM	#8
Big Bunny Senior Member Join Date: August 9, 1999 Location: New South Wales - Australia Posts: 605	That was the main point of my posting Beano, a convertionally lubricated choke can lead to loseness, but your remarks on checking and maintenance are very pertinent, if only most ordinary shotgunners carried them out regularly ! I suppose my remarks were more appropriate to a new-chum or tyro - not the experienced specialist discipline expert sporter you are so obviously. Stan was not really in that league and I (perhaps erroniously) thought he needed any help we collectively could give him, so I gave him my 10c worth. But graphite on choke threads has my OK ! ------------------ *Big Bunny*