|
Forum Rules | Firearms Safety | Firearms Photos | Links | Library | Lost Password | Email Changes |
Register | FAQ | Calendar | Today's Posts | Search |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
November 20, 2000, 09:14 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 11, 1999
Location: south bend, IN usa
Posts: 475
|
Ok I have begun loading .223 for my bushmaster. I lube them up, then size and decap. I then run it through the tumbler, but my corn cob gets stuck in my primer hole. I go through them one by one with a safety pin and poke them out. Is there an easier way, do others have this problem too?
__________________
"We are fast approaching the stage of the ultimate inversion: the stage where the government is free to do anything it pleases, while the citizens may act only by permission; which is the stage of the darkest periods of human history, the stage of rule by brute force." --Ayn Rand, in "The Nature of Government" http://hometown.aol.com//jsax13/web.html Member NRA, GOA, JPFO, SAF, and CCRKBA. |
November 20, 2000, 11:24 PM | #2 |
Staff in Memoriam
Join Date: November 13, 1998
Location: Terlingua, TX; Thomasville, GA
Posts: 24,798
|
I polish my brass before starting the reloading process. Less "grunge" rubbing against the resizing die. Use the minimum lube that gives smooth operation. And clean the resizing die as needed; it gets messy in there.
I use mechanic's shop rags to wipe down the ammo after it's all reloaded... FWIW, Art |
November 21, 2000, 12:38 AM | #3 |
Member
Join Date: November 2, 2000
Posts: 73
|
In my humble opinion, It is more important to get the brass blean before running it through the sizer die, than after.
So the brass may not look as nice with micro-scrathes on it, but the only option I know of that will remove them is re-polishing. It's up to you. FOOTNOTE: I use a small jewellers screwdriver to remove the walnut media (and it drives me nuts)! I HAVE THOUGHT OF USING GLASS BEAD MEDIA FOR POLISHING BUT I DON'T KNOW IF IT WOULD CASE HARDEN THE SURFACE OF THE BRASS. ANY METALURGY EXPERTS OUT THERE? |
November 21, 2000, 12:43 AM | #4 |
Member
Join Date: November 2, 2000
Posts: 73
|
WOULD YOU PLEASE SHARE YOUR LOAD SPECS. WITH US? I JUST STARTED RELOADING .223 ABOUT 1000 ROUNDS AGO. BUT I'M CURRENTLY LOOKING FOR PROVEN FORMULA'S.
THANX AND tight groups! |
November 21, 2000, 07:07 PM | #5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: November 11, 1999
Location: south bend, IN usa
Posts: 475
|
The reason I dont lube after tumbling the brass, is the possibility of deactivating the primer from the lube. As for loads, I am new to this so I have more experimenting to do but if you do a search I found a bunch of different loads.
__________________
"We are fast approaching the stage of the ultimate inversion: the stage where the government is free to do anything it pleases, while the citizens may act only by permission; which is the stage of the darkest periods of human history, the stage of rule by brute force." --Ayn Rand, in "The Nature of Government" http://hometown.aol.com//jsax13/web.html Member NRA, GOA, JPFO, SAF, and CCRKBA. |
November 21, 2000, 07:59 PM | #6 |
Staff in Memoriam
Join Date: November 13, 1998
Location: Terlingua, TX; Thomasville, GA
Posts: 24,798
|
Hoosierboy, it takes such a "eensy-teensy" bit of lube! I put a minimal amount on one of these patented RCBS lube-pads, smear it out, and lightly roll the cases across. Just picking them up and handling them gets enough lube on my fingers that I merely "clean my hands" on the next handful of cases and that's plenty. No way anything could hurt primers.
For that matter, wiping down the cases could easily be the next step after resizing/decapping... Art |
November 22, 2000, 08:51 AM | #7 |
Junior member
Join Date: January 18, 1999
Location: Kokomo, Indiana USA
Posts: 674
|
I went through the same thing, in both 223 and 308. I finally started buying them pre-processed from scharch and rvo.
|
November 26, 2000, 10:44 AM | #8 |
Junior Member
Join Date: November 26, 2000
Posts: 6
|
I tumble my brass before it's resized, cleaning out primer pockets can cause you to go nuts. I use Hornady's One-Shot spray lube. I dump about 50 cases in an open plastic container, (wife's tupperware is best), a light back and forth spray, what 3 minutes, shake the box, respray and resize. Since I switched to One-Shot, I'll never use conventional lube again, it's too easy.
Good luck, Longtrain |
November 27, 2000, 02:09 PM | #9 |
Junior member
Join Date: November 7, 1999
Posts: 1,516
|
Longtrain's using the most commonly-used, common-sense method. Clean; lube; resize; trim (unless you're using the X die); prime; charge and seat. (And maybe crimp, if you wish.) There's nothing wrong with tumbling loaded rounds in a vibratory tumbler for short periods of time, in order to remove the lube.
|
November 27, 2000, 06:26 PM | #10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: March 15, 2000
Posts: 1,040
|
I guess I did it the hard way. Just tried out the Midway spray lube, boy did it save time! I did this: spray, resize, clean out the primer pocket, tumble, and reload. I too had the media in the flash hole, took a small jag and removed it, annoying as it was.
The last time I used Lee lube, the grease stuff, took more hours than the spray, I am sold. |
November 28, 2000, 11:54 AM | #11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: April 25, 2000
Location: Omaha, NE. USA
Posts: 165
|
fed168 wrote:
"The last time I used Lee lube, the grease stuff, took more hours than the spray, I am sold." Fed, I buy those cheap two ounce tubes of sizing lube from Midway and squeeze a whole tube (every last bit I can get out, anyway) into a clean spray bottle. I then measure out 15 ounces of denatured alcohol and pour it into the bottle as well. I shake this until the paste dissolves into the alcohol and it looks like a white cloudy mixture. I then place my .223 casings in a large flat bottomed bowl (about 200 or so) and continually roll the casings around with my left arm while I spray the mixture in from the bottle with my right hand. Just spray while sloshing the cases around. After about one minute you will have cases coated with a visible light coat of white lube ready to be resized. The alcohol only takes about five minutes to completely evaporate. You can use water to replace the alcohol if you want to wait longer for the water to completely dry. This bottle will last for at least two thousand casings and a new tube of that lube is only something like $3.00. You don't need to pay $14-20 for a bottle of the same size that does the same thing when you can pay a total of maybe $5 (with the alcohol included) with this home remedy. I usually buy my alcohol in one gallon containers because it is a little cheaper that way. Hope this gives you some ideas. Lubing is definitely one place where you can cheapen the reloading process. Joel |
|
|