Case Neck Lube

[chasep255]

My reloading book tells me to use Case neck Lube but other people tell me I don't need to. Do you guys use it?

[jepp2]

Yes. If you don't it can stretch the necks.

I used to use mica, but recently switched to Imperial dry lube. For high volume calibers, I get the carbide expander. I can get by without lube with it, but normally do anyway.

[snuffy]

My reloading book tells me to use Case neck Lube but other people tell me I don't need to. Do you guys use it?

Yes, inside the neck. The outside should be dry IF what you're asking about is bottle necked cases. Also, just a tiny amount of lube inside the necks. Case neck brushes are made of white nylon, made to be very lightly coated with a tiny amount of lube, then passed in and back out of the case neck before sizing.

[chasep255]

Here is the die set I bought. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=257541

Now do I even need the neck sizing die if I'm loading FMJ bullets?

[Civil War Life]

I think you will still need to lube the inside of the neck and the outside of the cases. You do not want to get a stuck case. That can be a real problem. I bought some carbide dies from Lee for my revolver loads and they do not require any lube, but these dies do not look like carbide dies. Others may have a more informed opinion.
I also bought the factory crimp dies from Lee for my rifle dies. so far I like them a lot better than the crimp you get from the seating die. Side benefit is that your cases don't have to all be exactly the same length, although I trim all of mine to the same length.
Good luck and enjoy.

[Wildalaska]

If you are neck sizing with a TIN bushing only, then you dont NEED to lube

WildalthoidoAlaska ™©2002-2011

[Toddco]

if you are reloading rifle cases you do indeed need to lube them. I tried to do it for a while without any lube and the dies actually scrape a minute amount of brass off the cases as you size them. This builds up inside the die and eventually you will start to leave grooves in your case necks. It took me a couple of hours to get the brass out of my dies after that. There are several dry neck lubes that work very well for resizing, Redding for example has what they call their Imperial neck size lube. Note: i do not use the expander ball when i resize, whether this has something to do with it or not i am unsure.

[oneoldsap]

I lube the neck of every 5th case !

[Incognito]

I use dry mica. It's kind of a PITA, but what you gonna do?

[Nevmavrick]

Truth be known, you need a lube of some kind, whenever you rub two pieces of metal together, more so if there is pressure, as when resizing.
The question is how much you can get away with, by NOT using it. When you're using carbide, because it's so hard, you can go without longer, but you still need it. It's SO hard that the brass won't stick to it and tear, but it'll STILL wear the die out after while, albeit a LONG WHILE. It's still a good idea to use SOME lube. The reason to use carbide dies is that you're going to load LOTS of ammo, not because you don't don't want to lube. With a progressive is the best time to use a C-die. I use a C-die when I load 10mm/.40 because I load lots of cases, many of which are dirty, or lightly corroded, then use a tumbler to polish and de-lube later. I use a single-stage press.
If I'm loading range-scrounged brass, and some has dirt inside(rifle) then I'll use a nylon brush with lube (I use RCBS as it's water-soluble)
Normally, I just use the brush inside the neck to knock the carbon off, so the expander-ball doesn't drag on the return stroke. I guess there is SOME lube left on the brush, tho'.
The only difference between lubes, really is convenience. Ya pays yer money, and ya takes yer choice.
Have fun,
Gene

[armoredman]

Nobody ever told me I needed a special lube for my case necks, so when I lube my rifle brass for sizing, I take a small amount on a fingertip and smear it around and over the case mouth, Lee lube. Seems to work so far.

[dmazur]

Case neck brushes are made of white nylon, made to be very lightly coated with a tiny amount of lube, then passed in and back out of the case neck before sizing.

I have tried other methods, including graphite and mica, and I returned to the classic method described above.

I use RCBS case lube (which is water soluable and easy to clean off the cases), and just lightly roll the case neck brush over the pad every 3-5 cases. This deposits enough lube inside the case neck to ease the passage of the expander ball, but not enough to cause powder bridging.

[Jim243]

Spray lub for the outside of the cases. I do not have any problems with case neck streach enough lub finds it way to the right parts of the die. Some of the spray might find it's way into the necks but very little.

Jim

[Kevin Rohrer]

I use Imperial Dry Neck Lube as it doesn't contaminate powder, is easy to apply, and isn't messy.

The outside of all cases gets Imperial Sizing Wax.

[howlnmad]

The die set that the link goes to has 3 dies. 2 sizing and 1 seater die. With the F/L sizer you need to lube the case body (not the shoulder) and inside the neck. With the Collet neck sizer, a little lube inside the neck won't hurt. You don't need to lube the case body.
Which one you use depends on what you're after. For auto feed guns you should always F/L size. If it's for a bolt action, and only the same one, you can neck size after they have been fired once from that gun. This will fire form them to that chamber. After 4 or 5 reloadings it's a good idea to F/L size them again and start over. Remember to check each case for signs of stress, splits and head seperation.
Oh yeah, I don't know of any carbide dies for bottle neck except those that use use a carbide expander button.