Reloading Equipment List - Newbie

[Phil3]

Hi,

I know there are frequent questions here (and on other forums) on how to get started in reloading. I spent considerable time learning (books, Internet, hands on classes) and I am now ready to buy equipment. This is where i need your experience and help.

This equipment is higher end, because I value high quality tools, and wish to make equally high quality ammunition. Ammo is for AR15 (223), AR10 (308), and a 6mmBR benchrest type gun. I place a high value on pinpoint accuracy.

Am I missing anything? Suggested changes, or...? Stuff I don't need? Some items here are for the 6mmBR and may not be needed for an AR. Pistol stuff will be Dillon 550 and accessories (later).

Thank you. Phil

Reloading Manual #1: Lee
Reloading Manual #2: Sierra
Press: Forster Co-Ax
Resizing Die: Forster Full Length (AR15 & AR10)
Resizing Die: Redding S Bushing Die (6mmBR or Dasher)
Bullet Seater: Forster Ultra (micrometer top)
Stuck Case Remover: Forster
Bullet Puller: Forster
Bullet Puller Collet: Forster
Die Lubricant: Imperial
Scale and Powder Dispenser: RCBS Chargemaster Combo
Powder Funnel: Redding
Digital Calipers: Anything Decent
Case Trimmer: Wilson Ultimate or Giraud/Deburr/Chamfer Tool
DeBurr/Chamfer Tool: RCBS Tool (if no Giraud)
Primer Pocket Cleaner Tool: Dewey Crocogator
Case Cleaner: Commercial Ultrasonic (Amazon or e-Bay)
Flash Hole Deburring Tool: K&M
Case Neck Brush: Sinclairs
Concentricity Measurement Tool: Sinclair
Case Neck Measurement Gauge: Redding
Loading Block: Sinclair
O.A.L. Comparator: Hornandy
Bullet Comparator: Sinclair or Hornandy
Hand Priming Tool: RCBS Strip Type & Strip Reloader
Neck Turner: K&M (or something set up on a drill press)

Do I really need a balance beam scale as well?

[Unclenick]

You just need a calibrated check weight set for the electronic scale, ou don't need the beam if the electronic scale is working properly. Get a check weight set with several weights so you can check linearity of the electronic scale as well as its endpoint weighing.

I'll suggest some alternative tools:

The NECO case gauge can do both concentricity and neck measuring, taking the place of two of your tools. It additionally has a special anvil that lets you measure case wall thickness runout back near the head and pressure ring. Runout is usually worse there, which makes it easier to sort cases with it.

If you are going to neck size the 6 mm BR, take a look at Redding's new Competition Neck Bushing Die. It uses a sliding sleeve like the Competition Seater Die to force case alignment to eliminate necks being pulled off center. You will likely also want their body die to go with that to occasionally bump the case shoulders back when they get too tight.

I know Forster invented the sliding sleeve seater, but I really like Reddings execution on these. I can't really measure significant runout on cartridges seated with one if the neck is uniform. Maybe half a thousandth at the most. Your call, though. The Reddings are more expensive, and since I've never used the Forster, I don't know that it won't do just as well? I just know the Reddings work.

The Wilson and Giraud trimmers work on different principles. The Wilson will trim case length, while the Giraud trims neck length with respect to the shoulder. I consider the latter to better serve the purpose of keeping the neck out of the freebore or throat of the gun. The tradition of trimming by length assumes full-length resizing, as a chamber with more generous headspace would be longer when the neck went the same distance into the chamber neck. The chamber neck should be a constant, since a long headspace chamber just means the whole reamer went in deeper. On the other hand, you can figure that out for the Wilson with your comparator and it is much less expensive for multiple rounds. The Giraud takes more adjustment fiddling to set up unless you shell out $40 for separate preset cutters for each caliber. Without that, you usually expend a couple of cases getting it tweaked in. Can't beat it for speed once it's running, though. 10 cases a minute, easy, verses maybe one a minute for the hand crank tools.

For precision rifle loading there are only two great hand priming tools. The Sinclair for smooth feel is hard to beat. But for maximum precision, the K&M Markel tool with its optional dial indicator is probably the way to go. Federal suggests you want to feel the primer anvil touch down on the bottom of the primer pocket, then go an additional 0.002" deeper to set the pellet bridge thickness in a small rifle primer, and 0.003" deeper with a large rifle primer. Only K&M gives you a means of measuring that, AFAIK. It also has a neat sliding sleeve that forces the primers to start straight in. I don't think you'll be disappointed with it for the BR gun.

For the self-loader rounds you can use it if you want to, but the primer seater system on the Co-ax press is really great for service rifle rounds because it has a unique mechanism that forces the primer 0.004" below flush with the case rim. That's the best insurance against slam fires you can get. You may want to prime cases in front of the TV with the hand tool, but pass them through the Co-ax seater afterward as an insurance step. That way you get them all uniformly in place first so the effect on them all is identical. That's what I do, anyway.

You'll want a primer pocket depth uniforming cutter so those perfectly seated primers have uniform distance from your bolt's firing pin tunnel. Sinclair sells them. No magic there. Many folks use them later to clean their primer pockets. The reason is that the bottom of the primer pocket slowly backs up with firing. By using that tool as a cleaner, it takes the brass back to position with each cleaning.

I like the Hornady (nee Stoney Point) Overall Gauge, and own both kinds (straight and bent). You need the offset built into their caliper adapters to snug up to the gauge for a reading. The Sinclair won't substitute. If your not using that gauge to set your seating depth up, then I prefer the Sinclair, with its stainless inserts, coupled with the Davidson case base. The base just makes repeatable measurements easier. With the Hornady, however, it won't line up correctly. I think maybe the stainless inserts will fit the Hornady holders, though. I have both and haven't tried crossing them over since I have them on different calipers. Ask Sinclair.

Assuming you do get the Hornady gauge, set aside the bullet you establish the throat location with and mark its base with the caliper reading. Every few hundred rounds can reuse the gauge with that same bullet to see how much throat wear you have. You can also readjust your seating depths to follow it, if you want to see if that helps accuracy. This is called chasing the throat, and you may or may not find it useful. Depends on the gun.

I never had great luck cleaning cases in standard ultrasonic cleaners like the Bransonic I own. The carbon usually benefits from friction with the tumbler medium, plus I don't have to dry them afterward. With the ultrasonic, unless you get one of those high power armorer's types, you may find it frustrating. One thing I have yet to try, though, is a pre-soak of the cases in a carbon softener, like Ed's Red, before going into the Bransonic. That, or even just mineral spirits may help? But I think the guys going to short stainless wires in rotary tumblers are probably onto the most effective carbon removal.

I'm sure I'm missing something obvious. Just a feeling. Good luck with it all.

Nick