Modifying Browning Gold Fusion

Killborn · May 1, 2016, 02:28 PM

Greetings everyone.

It has been some time now, since I wanted to make this post, and I finally got to it.
I have a Browning Gold Fusion semi 12ga smooth bore, that i wish to modify for my needs. The objective is to make a 50m slug gun for target shooting, and maybe some hunting in the future.

1. The gun has hard plastic butt stock plate that I wish to replace with a softer recoil pad, however, the butt of the stock is slightly curved. Since every recoil pad I've seen have straight base, question is, how do I do that. Should I Sand the butt straight or are there any pads that can be applied to a curved butt stock.

2. I wish to mount some kind of sight on it, and regarding mounts, I have 2 options. First, I have a cantilever mount that is attached to barrel vent ribs (given to me by my friend), however, I have no idea if it fits the rib correctly (friend told me, that is designed for different models). It holds firm when I try to move it, but haven't tested it on the range yet. Maybe someone can advice me on how to tell, if the mount is properly placed. I also have a couple of dovetail mounts on the receiver if that is an option (which I doubt).

3. Regarding the rights, I've been thinking either about a red dot or peep/ghost ring type sights. Would like some advice on inexpensive models/systems if possible.

Sorry if the questions may sound dumb, I only recently got into shooting, got a lot of dumb questions

Dixie Gunsmithing · May 1, 2016, 05:46 PM

All stocks have an offset, down the center, from the grip to the plate, of about 1/4" standard. That is called either cast on, or cast off, according to what hand the shooter is. Without that, you can't sight it correctly, and some shooters, who have large cheeks, need to have the stock bent to accommodate them. The factory installs pads on a straight flat cut, and does not try to angle the pad. They have an adjustable mount, that goes between the stock and the pad or plate, but you would have to shim the pad, if you wanted to straighten out that angle. I don't think they have any, that you can buy, which has that adjustment now. However, you can adjust the drop, rotation, and the length of pull.

See here for gunstock info:

http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/fit.html

Graco Adj. Buttplate:

http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts...726-16385.aspx

If you're going to invest in a pad to use, buy a good one.

Killborn · May 2, 2016, 01:26 AM

Thank you for the link, Dixie, very useful information. I do have some shims that go in between the receiver and stock grip, provided by the manufacturer to adjust cast-on, cast-off. I'll definitely play with that. However, what concerns me, is that the butt of the stock itself isn't straight line, it has a concave curve to it. I attached an image for demonstration.

The depth of the curve isn't big, about 1/4" in it's deepest part, but still, if i'll install a recoil pad, there will be a gap in the center. The angle of the pitch suits me pretty good, so, maybe I can just sand down the butt to straight line, while saving that angle?

tangolima · May 2, 2016, 09:07 AM

You need to cut some stock off to compensate the length added by the pad. It is done by a miter saw, which cuts straight. You won't have the curve problem after that.

-TL

Dixie Gunsmithing · May 3, 2016, 05:18 PM

That is correct, in that a pad requires a flat surface. Gunstocks differ, where some use a curve in the butt and some are flat, for plates, however, all pads use flat butt ends.

Remember, that you'll have to cut off the stock to equal the thickness of the pad, plus any spacers, then shape the pad with a sander. All pads are oversize.

The best way to cut it, is to wrap the butt with paper tape, past the distance of the pads cut line, and use several layers, then mark the cut line on the tape. Place it in a miter saw, and shim it so that the butts face is square to the saws table, and keep it from moving. The tape will keep the wood from splintering at the cut. I generally use wide painters paper tape, and wrap about three wraps around it, tightly.

May 1, 2016, 02:28 PM	#1
Killborn Junior Member Join Date: September 7, 2015 Posts: 2	Modifying Browning Gold Fusion Greetings everyone. It has been some time now, since I wanted to make this post, and I finally got to it. I have a Browning Gold Fusion semi 12ga smooth bore, that i wish to modify for my needs. The objective is to make a 50m slug gun for target shooting, and maybe some hunting in the future. 1. The gun has hard plastic butt stock plate that I wish to replace with a softer recoil pad, however, the butt of the stock is slightly curved. Since every recoil pad I've seen have straight base, question is, how do I do that. Should I Sand the butt straight or are there any pads that can be applied to a curved butt stock. 2. I wish to mount some kind of sight on it, and regarding mounts, I have 2 options. First, I have a cantilever mount that is attached to barrel vent ribs (given to me by my friend), however, I have no idea if it fits the rib correctly (friend told me, that is designed for different models). It holds firm when I try to move it, but haven't tested it on the range yet. Maybe someone can advice me on how to tell, if the mount is properly placed. I also have a couple of dovetail mounts on the receiver if that is an option (which I doubt). 3. Regarding the rights, I've been thinking either about a red dot or peep/ghost ring type sights. Would like some advice on inexpensive models/systems if possible. Sorry if the questions may sound dumb, I only recently got into shooting, got a lot of dumb questions

May 1, 2016, 05:46 PM	#2
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	All stocks have an offset, down the center, from the grip to the plate, of about 1/4" standard. That is called either cast on, or cast off, according to what hand the shooter is. Without that, you can't sight it correctly, and some shooters, who have large cheeks, need to have the stock bent to accommodate them. The factory installs pads on a straight flat cut, and does not try to angle the pad. They have an adjustable mount, that goes between the stock and the pad or plate, but you would have to shim the pad, if you wanted to straighten out that angle. I don't think they have any, that you can buy, which has that adjustment now. However, you can adjust the drop, rotation, and the length of pull. See here for gunstock info: http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/fit.html Graco Adj. Buttplate: http://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts...726-16385.aspx If you're going to invest in a pad to use, buy a good one.

May 2, 2016, 01:26 AM	#3
Killborn Junior Member Join Date: September 7, 2015 Posts: 2	Thank you for the link, Dixie, very useful information. I do have some shims that go in between the receiver and stock grip, provided by the manufacturer to adjust cast-on, cast-off. I'll definitely play with that. However, what concerns me, is that the butt of the stock itself isn't straight line, it has a concave curve to it. I attached an image for demonstration. The depth of the curve isn't big, about 1/4" in it's deepest part, but still, if i'll install a recoil pad, there will be a gap in the center. The angle of the pitch suits me pretty good, so, maybe I can just sand down the butt to straight line, while saving that angle?

May 2, 2016, 09:07 AM	#4
tangolima Senior Member Join Date: September 28, 2013 Posts: 3,827	You need to cut some stock off to compensate the length added by the pad. It is done by a miter saw, which cuts straight. You won't have the curve problem after that. -TL

May 3, 2016, 05:18 PM	#5
Dixie Gunsmithing Moderator Emeritus Join Date: April 27, 2013 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,923	That is correct, in that a pad requires a flat surface. Gunstocks differ, where some use a curve in the butt and some are flat, for plates, however, all pads use flat butt ends. Remember, that you'll have to cut off the stock to equal the thickness of the pad, plus any spacers, then shape the pad with a sander. All pads are oversize. The best way to cut it, is to wrap the butt with paper tape, past the distance of the pads cut line, and use several layers, then mark the cut line on the tape. Place it in a miter saw, and shim it so that the butts face is square to the saws table, and keep it from moving. The tape will keep the wood from splintering at the cut. I generally use wide painters paper tape, and wrap about three wraps around it, tightly.