April 7, 2007, 11:14 AM | #1 |
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Lee Die Question
I have set up, and loaded both .38spl and .357 Magnum with my first Lee Deluxe Die set purchased.
Now, after buying another "set", I am having trouble adjusting the bullet seating die to run the .357's? My 2 dies, do have a different number stamped on the side. My first one says K6 and the new one says B7, is that just a run identification, or something more significant? After touching the Ram, then backing out 3 full turns, I can't seem to use the adjusting screw to get the right bullet seat. Why is one die working fine when adjusted, and this one not? |
April 7, 2007, 11:47 AM | #2 |
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Take a look inside the seating stem. You could have a burr on it. The part I mean is the threaded end at the adjustment part of the die. Take a look deep inside where it rests on the stem itself. I had one once that wasn't cut completely smooth and had to get it replace. The darn thing drove me nuts.
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...1&d=1175964645 |
April 7, 2007, 01:44 PM | #3 |
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The Letter number thing is a MFG date.
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April 7, 2007, 02:29 PM | #4 |
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Problem Solved
As usual, instructions always leave something important out.
They tell you to screw the die in until it touches the shellcasing, then in Capital letters, "TURN OUT THREE FULL TURNS". Of course it is too much trouble to put in parentheses (back out die more for a .357). After crushing a couple of casings and not seating the bullet, you figure that out for yourself. Ya just gotta love generic instruction sheets! |
April 11, 2007, 06:05 PM | #5 |
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Shooting nut, on the Lee bullet seater .357 die: Can it be backed out enough to use the full stroke of the handle to seat the bullet and crimp the case? I crushed a couple myself since I was used to going all the way down with the handle. I then learned to back off when the handle got so far down but if I continue to press down the case gets crushed. Will that die allow me to adjust it out more so the case will not be crushed yet still have enough bullet seater stem left to seat the bullet? Having to learn where to stop really slows me down reloading when you are used to reloading 45 ACP and the handle goes the full stroke down.
Thanks in advance.
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April 11, 2007, 06:23 PM | #6 |
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Back it out an extra 1 3/4 turns for a total of 4 3/4
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April 11, 2007, 06:32 PM | #7 |
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Agree with XD, that's about what it takes, and yes you can back it out to accomodate the .357 size, and seat the bullet without crushing your casing.
Found it out by trail and error, then received confirmation from Sue Kempf (Kempf Gun Shop). As I posted before, WHY does Lee not include that in their "Generic" .38 Spl instruction sheet? We are not putting up a Swing Set for the kids, right? |
April 11, 2007, 09:09 PM | #8 |
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I agree. While I think Lee does make a great product some times their directions are a little below par.
Rusty
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April 12, 2007, 05:36 AM | #9 |
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Factory Crimp Die?
Shooting Nut, are you using a factory crimp die? Or are you seating and crimping in one step? If not using one, I would recomend it. I had some bad luck at first with the powder through expasion die. It was goig too far in, and over flaring the case. I just backed it off, ad it is fine now. The 357 is setup completley different than the 38 spec. Back to the original point, It sounds like you are crimping/seating in the same step, get a FCD.
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April 12, 2007, 06:46 PM | #10 |
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If you take your instructions out of the box and flip them over without opening them up you will find that the last thing printed on the page is
Back out the expander and bullet seating dies an extra 1 3/4 turns for .357 Magnum. It's there. It's just in a weird spot |
April 12, 2007, 08:59 PM | #11 |
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38 to 357
there is a washer that is used to make it easy to convert lengths.I dont use one because I use two presses.you can make one yourself with a little work
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