Commander Slide Bind/Sticks

TomL · January 14, 2010, 06:46 PM

I have what looks like a very well used Colt Commander 45acp, all steel version. The slide has a bind in it, it starts where you can see the ejector pin(?) thru the notch in the slide for the slide release removal(reference point). It is real apparent when just assembling the slide to the lower w/o recoil spring/bbl/other parts. Also there are rub marks on the front of the slide(slide release side only)where the slide has rubbed on the U channel of the lower, I find that rather curious. Sometimes it will stick open when fully assembled when pulling the slide back hard with your hand as in chambering a round. A hard flick of the wrist and it goes into battery. I put about 60 rounds thru it today, other than an occasional flyer(ammo?)it shoots fairly well and in the hands of someone much better than me I feel it would perform better. My Series 70 has no such issues, seems nice and snug all the way. Any ideas/advice appreciated. Thanks Tom

PetahW · January 15, 2010, 09:07 AM

Are you running a lube, like Dri-Slide, in the slide grooves ?

It sounds like either a fitting job needs refitting, or someone did a quick kitchen table slide tightening via squeezing it in a vise hap-hazzardly.

.

patriotthad · January 15, 2010, 09:25 AM

I would agree that it is possible that someone tried to tighten the slide to frame fit without the proper tools/ and/ or knowledge. I would send it to Wilson's for a basic reliability package. If not, reliability and accuracy may decrease to a point of no return.

Hunter Customs · January 15, 2010, 10:56 AM

There's several things that may be causing your problem.

As already stated did someone try tightening the slide to frame fit? If so the slide to frame might need to be lapped.

Has the ejector been changed? If so the ejector may be rubbing the slide or the ejector pin may be rubbing the slide.

If the barrel has been changed it may not have been fit properly.

If you are unsure on what or how to check out your problem it might be best if you have a smith check your gun for you.

Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com

TomL · January 15, 2010, 05:56 PM

Thank you for the replys. I am not using any lube in the slide grooves, yesterday was the first range firing with it. More than likely part of the grouping was the operator as I am a far cry from what you would call "proficient" and I wear Bi-focals.

They were fired from a rest and went from 1.5 to 4 inches, some vertical strings went low and left, some groups had no particular pattern. These groups were at 30 feet, I didn't even try 50 feet(Indoor Range BTW). I do beleive my grip/sight pic were/are to blame plus it has a terrible break point on trigger/hammer release. I have no scale but it is too heavy a pull/let off/break for me. I am going to take it to an experienced Smith for some further checks. The binding has to be addressed and the barrel bushing fit to slide seems loose in two ways; forward-backward and ease of turn as well as bushing to barrel fit. Thanks again to those of you who responed. Tom

hockeysew · January 16, 2010, 12:01 AM

Typically the things I look for on a 1911 that is having issues on going into battery is:
1-Link length
2-Barrel lug engagement to slide
3-Barrel hood length
4-Bushing fit
5-Disconnector working smoothly and correct length.
6-Firing pin stop overhang
7-Recoil spring bind
8-Slide to frame fit
9-Disconnector groove in slide
They all can cause a slide to hang up.

Grease on the rails is a good place to start. I like Tetra. It stays put and doesnt seem to collect too much crud as long as you dont over do it.
If it was my pistol the first place to start would be a good detail strip/clean/lube session(I do this with every firearm when purchased-new or used)
Inspect for any obvious deficencies and when it is reassembled, put at least 200 rounds of FMJ hardball down the pipe.
I am not too surprised if on a new firearm I get a couple of hiccups within this intial break in (it is afterall a machine and needs to wear in).
Now if it is a recurrent stoppage then I know we have an issue and I address it.
Your trigger may just have some crud in the works. You would be surprised at the trash in firearms that just came out of the box.

January 14, 2010, 06:46 PM	#1
TomL Senior Member Join Date: June 9, 2009 Posts: 119	Commander Slide Bind/Sticks I have what looks like a very well used Colt Commander 45acp, all steel version. The slide has a bind in it, it starts where you can see the ejector pin(?) thru the notch in the slide for the slide release removal(reference point). It is real apparent when just assembling the slide to the lower w/o recoil spring/bbl/other parts. Also there are rub marks on the front of the slide(slide release side only)where the slide has rubbed on the U channel of the lower, I find that rather curious. Sometimes it will stick open when fully assembled when pulling the slide back hard with your hand as in chambering a round. A hard flick of the wrist and it goes into battery. I put about 60 rounds thru it today, other than an occasional flyer(ammo?)it shoots fairly well and in the hands of someone much better than me I feel it would perform better. My Series 70 has no such issues, seems nice and snug all the way. Any ideas/advice appreciated. Thanks Tom

January 15, 2010, 05:56 PM	#5
TomL Senior Member Join Date: June 9, 2009 Posts: 119	Commander Slide Bind Thank you for the replys. I am not using any lube in the slide grooves, yesterday was the first range firing with it. More than likely part of the grouping was the operator as I am a far cry from what you would call "proficient" and I wear Bi-focals. They were fired from a rest and went from 1.5 to 4 inches, some vertical strings went low and left, some groups had no particular pattern. These groups were at 30 feet, I didn't even try 50 feet(Indoor Range BTW). I do beleive my grip/sight pic were/are to blame plus it has a terrible break point on trigger/hammer release. I have no scale but it is too heavy a pull/let off/break for me. I am going to take it to an experienced Smith for some further checks. The binding has to be addressed and the barrel bushing fit to slide seems loose in two ways; forward-backward and ease of turn as well as bushing to barrel fit. Thanks again to those of you who responed. Tom

January 15, 2010, 09:07 AM	#2
PetahW Senior Member Join Date: September 19, 2008 Posts: 4,678	Are you running a lube, like Dri-Slide, in the slide grooves ? It sounds like either a fitting job needs refitting, or someone did a quick kitchen table slide tightening via squeezing it in a vise hap-hazzardly. .

January 15, 2010, 09:25 AM	#3
patriotthad Senior Member Join Date: April 26, 2009 Posts: 105	I would agree that it is possible that someone tried to tighten the slide to frame fit without the proper tools/ and/ or knowledge. I would send it to Wilson's for a basic reliability package. If not, reliability and accuracy may decrease to a point of no return.

January 15, 2010, 10:56 AM	#4
Hunter Customs Senior Member Join Date: March 26, 2005 Location: Osborn, Missouri Posts: 2,697	There's several things that may be causing your problem. As already stated did someone try tightening the slide to frame fit? If so the slide to frame might need to be lapped. Has the ejector been changed? If so the ejector may be rubbing the slide or the ejector pin may be rubbing the slide. If the barrel has been changed it may not have been fit properly. If you are unsure on what or how to check out your problem it might be best if you have a smith check your gun for you. Regards Bob Hunter www.huntercustoms.com

January 16, 2010, 12:01 AM	#6
hockeysew Member Join Date: August 21, 2008 Posts: 91	Typically the things I look for on a 1911 that is having issues on going into battery is: 1-Link length 2-Barrel lug engagement to slide 3-Barrel hood length 4-Bushing fit 5-Disconnector working smoothly and correct length. 6-Firing pin stop overhang 7-Recoil spring bind 8-Slide to frame fit 9-Disconnector groove in slide They all can cause a slide to hang up. Grease on the rails is a good place to start. I like Tetra. It stays put and doesnt seem to collect too much crud as long as you dont over do it. If it was my pistol the first place to start would be a good detail strip/clean/lube session(I do this with every firearm when purchased-new or used) Inspect for any obvious deficencies and when it is reassembled, put at least 200 rounds of FMJ hardball down the pipe. I am not too surprised if on a new firearm I get a couple of hiccups within this intial break in (it is afterall a machine and needs to wear in). Now if it is a recurrent stoppage then I know we have an issue and I address it. Your trigger may just have some crud in the works. You would be surprised at the trash in firearms that just came out of the box.