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December 2, 2009, 01:04 PM | #1 |
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Treso Ampco nipples for Uberti Walker
Can someone please verify the correct nipple to purchase for an Uberti made Walker. I believe the proper number is:
11-50-13 (for a single nipple) 11-50-136 (for six nipples) I have no idea how to cross reference these numbers to TOTW. |
December 2, 2009, 02:12 PM | #2 |
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December 2, 2009, 02:15 PM | #3 |
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You have the right thread but not the right length. The 11-50-13 nipple is 0.10" shorter than the Uberti Walker OEM nipple. The correct Treso part number is 11-50-01; the ToTW catalog number for that is RST-A.
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December 2, 2009, 02:24 PM | #4 |
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December 2, 2009, 09:41 PM | #5 |
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Don't be. The chart's wrong. Maybe because The Possible Shop doesn't stock the Treso 11-50-01. The 11-50-13 fits Thompson/Center rifles and is thus a popular size; the 11-50-01 fits some shotguns and the large frame Colt and Uberti revolvers which are less popular in overall numbers.
As I said the difference is 0.10" in overall length. Here's the specs: 11-50-01: 1/4x28 thread, 0.635" long 11-50-13: 1/4x28 thread, 0.538" long There's a third 1/4x28 thread Treso nipple, the 11-50-11, which is even shorter, 0.494" long. In a properly timed Colt revolver the hammer will hit the frame before it hits the nipple, but it will hit the cap. In such a revolver the 11-50-13 nipple will not work. However, our Italian revolvers are rarely timed to such precision, so the hammer will usually strike the nipple before the frame if no cap is present. It's most likely that your revolver will not care whether the 11-50-01 or the 11-50-13 is installed, but the former is the proper one as it better matches the OEM nipple length. |
December 3, 2009, 10:33 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
It also says that RST-A is "Nipple, 1/4-28 thread, for standard rifle, #11 cap, Ampco bronze". FWIW, I bought my Tresos from the Possible Shop; I bought the ones they indicate for Walkers and Dragoons (11-50-136) and they work. I just pulled one out and it measured 0.636 inches. |
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December 4, 2009, 07:36 AM | #7 |
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Yep. You are correct. My notes say the same thing, but my fingers didn't wish to do the extra work of adding the 'W'. Sorry.
Regarding the length: Yes, the longer nipple (0.636) is the correct one. I had similar problem with a set of Tresos for another gun once - two significantly different lengths for the same Treso part number. The retailer had purchased the nipples in bulk and mispackaged them. To be perfectly honest, I don't know for sure whether the 11-50-01 or the 11-50-13 is longer. It could well be that the ones you got are 'correct' and mine were mislabled. Sad situation. Last edited by mykeal; December 4, 2009 at 07:41 AM. |
December 4, 2009, 10:40 AM | #8 |
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Thanks y'all for the feedback! Seems like everytime I want to buy a set of Treso nipples y'all come to my rescue.
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December 4, 2009, 12:54 PM | #9 |
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My nipples are inappropriate. I'm so ashamed.
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December 4, 2009, 01:03 PM | #10 |
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Go to http://www.vtigunparts.com/ and call them. They will give you the straight answer.
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December 4, 2009, 03:11 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
Last edited by arcticap; December 4, 2009 at 03:27 PM. |
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April 13, 2010, 03:07 PM | #12 |
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Just wanted to revisit this thread one last time for the benefit of those who later do a search for info on Walker nipples. I have a 2009 production Uberti Walker. The factory nipples have the following length measurements:
0.626" 0.631" 0.626" 0.630" 0.627" 0.626" I purchased the Treso bronze 6 pack nipple set 11-50-136 and received them a week ago. The length measurement on them is 0.636". At this time I haven't determined whether or not I should consider taking 0.010 off the hammer face with a file. Does anyone have a good method to determine the amount of contact between the hammer and the nipples (if any)? |
April 13, 2010, 03:21 PM | #13 |
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Don't forget, wipe the nipple after firing with a damp Q-Tip. Remrmber
a wet nipple is a happy nipple. |
April 13, 2010, 04:29 PM | #14 | |
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Try several layers of trimmed electrical tape, adding & removing layers as needed till you get an imprint of the nipple's face as the hammer drops on the tape (which will also protect the nipple end?????). Once you've got the impring right just measure the tape patches with a mic & you're GTG. |
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April 13, 2010, 09:22 PM | #15 | |
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Quote:
But if anything were to be dressed, why the hammer rather than the nipples? |
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April 13, 2010, 10:23 PM | #16 | |
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Quote:
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April 14, 2010, 04:40 AM | #17 |
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I don't see why the hammer hitting the nipples is such a big deal as long as there isn't a problem with function.
Any indentations left on the hammer face won't be as deep as having filed it down. And once anything is filed the surfaces may not mate or hit every cap as flat as they did originally. It might be better to take a conservative approach and wait to see if the surfaces minutely wear in together or not and then only address any problems if they arise. Rifle nipples get hit hard each and every time the gun fires and neither the nipples nor the hammer notably suffer. Last edited by arcticap; April 14, 2010 at 04:47 AM. |
April 14, 2010, 05:43 AM | #18 | |
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Not in today's world. |
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April 14, 2010, 07:35 AM | #19 |
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You may find that the hammer well resist being filed. Most are case hardened and would require a grinder to remove the surface material. Shorten the nipples. Always modify the less expensive part.
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April 14, 2010, 07:56 AM | #20 |
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MCB you should know by now that just because something is case colored doesn't mean it's hardened. Most hammers are pretty soft and file easily. I agree with removing metal on the cheapest part tho.
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April 14, 2010, 08:40 AM | #21 |
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Always modify the less expensive, & most easily replaced part.
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April 26, 2010, 08:24 PM | #22 |
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My wife was reading over my shoulder...she said you should NEVER hit nipples with a hammer.
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