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May 30, 2011, 04:12 PM | #1 |
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using primers only. no powder
im wondering is it possible to use primers only to propel the bullet? specifically metal types, cast lead or copper jackets. handgun or rifle cartridges. i know it can be done with rubber bullets. they do make 22lr primer only ammo.
anyone ever tried with various bullets with and success? |
May 30, 2011, 04:34 PM | #2 |
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With most "real" bullets a primer only load will leave the bullet suck in the bore. Primers alone will work with pellets (such as a 22 pellet in a 223 case) and wax or glue bullets. Not sure about round balls, I've never tried them without powder.
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May 30, 2011, 04:35 PM | #3 |
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I missed a couple of charges with a malfunctioning progressive reloader. It was a cast 38 special load. The result was a squib load that stuck the bullet in the forcing cone, tying up the cylinder. Based on that experience I would say no to using a primer only. In fact I would say it’s dangerous because you could stick a bullet in the barrel and follow it up with a normal load.
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May 30, 2011, 08:02 PM | #4 |
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There is no guarantee that any given bullet/cartridge/primer/firearm combination will have the desired results.
However... .32 S&W Long brass with small rifle primers and a .311" round ball produce about 300 fps in a .327 Federal SP101 (3" bbl) or Blackhawk (5.5" bbl). In general, bullets with normal (or large) bearing surfaces will lodge in the bore. You need something with a minimal bearing surface, or low friction (wax, glue sticks, etc). That is also how some of the "primer only" .22 loads get by. The Aguila "Super Colibri" load, for example, has a tiny bearing surface on that super-light bullet (20 grains)... in addition to the wax lubricant. The only way to find out if a particular combination will work, is to try it - and be prepared to knock several lodged bullets out of the bore.
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May 30, 2011, 08:33 PM | #5 |
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im thinking the glue sticks might be the best bet for me. seems the most regid and ill give that a try soon.
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May 30, 2011, 09:03 PM | #6 |
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In the 1920s and 1930s the Finns used a slightly undersized and greased round ball in 7.62x54R as a practice load, using only the primer. Search for "Cats Sneeze" or Kissan Aivastus.
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May 31, 2011, 03:41 PM | #7 |
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Primers only question
Primers are only good for rubber or wax bullets. Nothing else !!!!
Guru1911
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May 31, 2011, 05:47 PM | #8 |
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With a 1911 Commander, .454" round load ball pushed all the way down to the primer, the ball goes through a lot of cardboard, but the gas still has super sonic gas escapement, and makes a loud bang. Needs a longer barrel for primer only.
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May 31, 2011, 06:03 PM | #9 |
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When I had my .44 Ruger Super Blackhawk I bought some of these two piece plastic bullets that resembled a regular shell and the front "bullet" portion was propelled by just a primer set in the rear half. I think the front bullet section was about the same size as the lands in the bore to make it easier to propel. Shooting 10 yards was pretty fun to do with no kick!
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May 31, 2011, 08:34 PM | #10 |
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Hot glue or wax bullets work well with just a primer. It helps if you enlarge the flash hole tho. Sticking a regular bullet in the barrel is not something anyone wants to do on purpose.
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May 31, 2011, 09:36 PM | #11 |
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Primers without powder in an unmodified case with normal bullets are called "squibs". You don't do that an purpose. Primer only loads generally use drilled out flash holes to maximize the effect and any of the several specialty bullets mentioned above.
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May 31, 2011, 09:38 PM | #12 |
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Speer's plastic bullets, powered by primer only, are a great training tool. I shoot them in my garage, to practice draw/fire drills. Make sure the area is well ventilated.
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June 1, 2011, 12:06 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
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June 1, 2011, 03:19 AM | #14 |
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I had three rounds that I missed the charge on in my K31. Couldn't really hear the primer go off. Bullet didn't move at all. Had to work hard with the kinetic puller to get them out. Can't really see that getting them out the bore. These were regular large rifle primers CCI.
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June 1, 2011, 07:12 PM | #15 |
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The noise from the primer will remain constant, but the fraction of the primer energy imparted on the bullet velocity is a function of seating depth.
With the 45/70 and one grain of bullseye, the bullet seated at the mouth of the case will bounce off wood. But a bullet seated down in the case to touch the web will go through an inch of wood. They both make the same BB gun noise, but in one, more of the powder energy goes into heating the barrel, and in the other, more goes into moving the bullet fast. You can think of it as expansion ratio or peak pressure or gas escapement velocity, or what ever gives you an intuitive feel that predicts the future.
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June 2, 2011, 05:13 PM | #16 |
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I missed charging a 44 mag round and stuck a bullet in the throat. As mentioned, wax or rubber only.
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June 4, 2011, 06:12 PM | #17 |
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Utter ridiculous.
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June 4, 2011, 06:29 PM | #18 |
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They are at least a couple of ways folks shoot primer only.
One is with a .223 case with the primer hole enlarged to accept shotgun primers. .22 pellets are then loaded by hand instead of a bullet. http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/c....aspx?a=593401 They other way Ive shot primer only rounds is with wax bullets and modified .38 casings. The cowboy quick draw crowd practice with wax and primer only from what Ive heard (less chance of losing a toe or two) At 7-10 yards the accuracy is surprisingly decent. http://www.banditshooting.com/ I thought there were also some non-firearm "guns" made in Mexico that shot primer only, Cabanas or something?
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