just started reloading have a problem

[M1 grand man]

ok i got a rcbs kit about 2 days ago red the book and thin started so i put the rite # of grains in the casing put a bullet in a pushed the lever down and the bullet casing was all smashed witch is 2 much crimping so i loosened the dye and set it 4 less crimping and it worked but it put a ring around the casing where the bullet stops so i loosened the dye again and thin not enough crimping and the bullet moves in the shell so if n e 1 could help me out i would rely like that thinks alot

[Joe Gulish]

No problem. Just seat the bullet first then come back and crimp them. If you want to seat and crimp at the same time, set the correct over all length of the bullet. Then back the seater out of the way then set the die for the crimp you want. After that bring the bullet seater down till it just touches the bullet and lock it in position.

[KP95DAO]

Excuse me if I have a problem believing that you read the book. It is obvious that you either cannot or chose not to spell correctly.

This being the case, you are the sort of person who will find yourself (hopefully only yourself) in big trouble real quick.

If this is the case do yourself and everyone else around you a favor and sell your equipment; QUICK!

[yankytrash]

Uhmmm....,

he's less than eloquent with his writing style, but I'm not sure he needs flaming....

[Johnny Guest]

yankytrash,
Thanks for the caution--agreed as to your comment.

I'll leave this topic open for now, but let's all be nice, please.

Best,
Johnny
Moderator

[Pampers]

I've been shootin' NRA Hi Power since 1978, first with a Garand, and then with an M14. I NEVER CRIMP! When I first reloaded bottleneck cartidges, I tried. But, I encountered the same problems that you describe. All of which were the result of overcrimping. So now, I NEVER CRIMP!

If, after resizing, you can easily push the bullet deeper into the case, either get a smaller expander plug (Have a machinist turn it down if necessary) or get Redding die with replacable neck bushings.


Yr. Obt. Svnt.

[HankL]

If you want or need to crimp you will first need to trim all of the cases you are going to load with that setup to the same length.
BTW Welcome Aboard M1 Grand Man
Hank

[Steve Smith]

Someone tell me this is a joke.

Shades of a "Mall Ninja" copy cat. (a shill getting folks all worked up)
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Ok, I read his past posts...seems for real. Just different.

[Chris McDermott]

M1 grand man - do you know anyone else who reloads, or belong to a shooting club where you could ask around for some help? It sounds like you need a little hands-on help showing you just how to adjust the dies for seating & crimping - which is something that is difficult to explain in writing but fairly easy to show someone. You might also ask at the local gun shops if any of them have a course in how to reload. I think for the last 100 years the reloading companies have been trying to get written instructions that could be understood by someone who has never seen these operations done - and these instructions are still about as clear as mud.

[yankytrash]

M1 Garand Man - If you could elaborate a little more, you're trouble seems easy enough to fix.

First, what caliber is this? As previously stated, the crimp may be unnecessary. In that case, let's address you're second step, when you backed the die off the first time.
What is the ring around the case you speak of? If it's just the indentation of the wider bullet going into the smaller casing, that's no big deal. If it chambers in your gun, it's fine.

[M1 grand man]

i m shooting a pc4 semi it shoots the 40 s&w round
the ring around the casing rather large compared to factory loads

[DialONE911]

.40 S&W

First off, be very careful with your over all length. This caliber can develop very high pressures from seating the bullet too deeply. Work up carefully from the listed starting charges and inspect fired cases for any signs of over pressure.

You don't say what weight bullet you are loading, but I would recommend beginning with a light bullet, since you will have a larger degree of safety with lighter bullets. Personally I like Nosler's 150 grain jacketed hollow point.

Second, practice making dummy rounds without powder or primer until you can consistently produce properly seated and crimped rounds.

Here's my recommendation for setting up the crimping stage.

1. remove the seater from the crimping die (assuming the RCBS 3 die set).

2. screw the lock ring to the top of the crimp die.

3. screw the crimp die into the press a few turns.

4. place a factory round into the shell holder and run the press to the top.

5. screw the crimp die down until it just lightly touches the factory round.

6. remove the factory round.

7. screw the crimp die down another full rotation.

8. secure the lock ring to set the die at this setting.

9. reinstall the seater into the crimp die.

Now you start loading dummy rounds. First, load one and measure your over all length, adjusting the seater until the round reaches the desired length. Usually 1.12 - 1.135" (for .40 S&W)

Then, drop the dummy round into the chamber of your gun. If it doesn't drop freely with a thunk, you may have to tighten up the crimp and readjust the seater.

If you are shooting jacketed rounds, this should work. But if you wish to load lead bullets, you should seat and crimp in separate operations. Personally, I use a Lee factory crimp die as a fourth station and just use the RCBS die to seat the bullet and remove the belling.

Be careful, .40 is a great round, but it doesn't leave much margin for error when reloading. Spend some extra time and re-read your loading manuals, double check every suggested powder charge and make sure you completely understand what you are doing every step of the way.