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January 20, 2008, 03:24 PM | #1 |
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Recommend a seating die??? Please...
Can anyone recommend a seating die?? Loading .270Win, 140BTSP Hornady SST's. Used an RCBS and a Lyman, both leave a ring just below the poly tip on the bullet. Anyone use a different brand with better results?
Thanks Pete |
January 20, 2008, 03:55 PM | #2 |
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If you are looking to step up a notch over a "standard" seat die......I like either the Forster Ultraseat Die or the Redding Competition Seat Die. Both keep bullets in line with the case neck. Both make a difference in accuracy.
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January 20, 2008, 04:16 PM | #3 |
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This seems to me to be a pretty common thing with hornadys bullets lately, very easy to leave a ring around.. I have never had a problem til I started using the red tipped bullets (Amax and Vmax)... Funny thing is, one box will do it, one won't. The ring for most hunting situations won't hurt anything. You might take the seater out of your die and hit it where the bullet enters the plug with some sand paper making it less sharp.. I just started seating my bullets very slowly with as little pressure as possible. If you are using a compressed load it will make things worse.. I don't know if the seating dies mentioned above will cure the problem or not.. I know that I have a seat of 30-06 Hornady Dies and RCBS .308 win dies and they both will leave the ring on certain Hornady bullets.. I haven't tried the sand paper trick to either. Seating them slower cured it for me for now
Dave |
January 20, 2008, 05:44 PM | #4 |
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The only plastic tip I currently use is 35 gr VMax in 22 Hornet - for this I use a Lee collet set. The seater doesn't leave a ring.
I use a Redding competition seater for 22-250 and it leaves no ring that I've noticed. Also use a Lyman AA seater for 270 - it has a sliding sleeve and doesn't leave marks. That die is no longer available new, but can be found at gun shows. |
January 20, 2008, 06:00 PM | #5 |
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Seater Die
Forester or Redding makes the best seating dies in my opinion. If you want to try hand dies, which I also have and use, Wilson dies are great, but that's a whole different game. Hope this helps!
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January 21, 2008, 09:21 PM | #6 |
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You might try Hornady seating dies. They have a similar sliding alignment sleeve to the redding comps and forsters, but it does not engage as much of the cartridge (i.e. below the shoulder) as those do. Doesn't have the price of those either. Optional micrometer adjustment if you want (but often too tall with one for co-ax press).
Andy |
January 22, 2008, 06:24 AM | #7 |
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You can eliminate the ring you are getting with the dies you are now using.
Remove the stem from the seater and polish the edge of the cone that seats the bullet. That will solve the problem. Martyn
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January 22, 2008, 11:00 AM | #8 |
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I have had the same problem with Hornady bullets in RCBS dies, even before the "plastic tip" era began. I think it is due to the Hornady "spire point" shape, which is more of a flat conical shape compared to the more common, rounded "spitzer" shape.
You can try to round the edge of the seater die stem where it contacts the bullet. That will work, but be careful to do it evenly so that it does not seat the bullet a little off-axis when you are finished. Putting it in a power tool like a drill will help keep it even all-around (compaerd to trying to turn it by hand while you "sand" with VERY fine emery paper). Another approach would be to use a Hornady seating die. I like them for 2 reasons. The first is because they have a sliding sleeve that gets the bullet into alignment before it contacts the seating punch and starts to move into the case. The second is that the seating punch is a small, simple, non-threated part that can easily be changed for different bullets. I can make my own on a small lathe that I have owned for years. If all else fails, I think both Hornady and Lee will custom-make seating stems (for their own dies) to fit specific bullets if you send them a sample bullet. After saying all this, I don't think the rings really make much difference in performance unless perhaps you are shooting VERY long ranges. I could not tell the difference at 450 yards. SL1 |
January 22, 2008, 12:34 PM | #9 |
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I would start with a Lee or a Hornady die, probably Lee. The Redding and Forster dies may also have your solution, but they'll be expensive and they're not as flexible about coming up with custom seating stems like Lee and Hornady are.
Regards, Dave |
January 22, 2008, 01:09 PM | #10 |
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Save your money and forget about the Hornady seating die. I purchased one for my 7.62x39. What a piece of junk. It is caliber specific not cartridge specific. The case is extremely loose in the die and produces the largest bullet runout I have even seen.
If you want to get rid of the ring, as already suggested polish the inside of the stem. If you really feel the need for a good seating die get a Forster BR die. They are the best I have used. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...310&t=11082005 |
January 22, 2008, 09:44 PM | #11 | |
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Andy |
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January 23, 2008, 07:48 AM | #12 | |
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January 23, 2008, 08:58 AM | #13 |
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Seating die
I would suggest calling Hornady and RCBS and see if they can give you some insight on the problem. They are usually very helpful with reloading problems. I use RCBS, Lyman, and Hornady quite a lot and have never had this problem but will watch closely in the future.
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January 23, 2008, 01:08 PM | #14 |
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I'll throw in on the Hornady dies as well. They should not leave the ring and if they do, I bet Hornady will give you a seater to match their bullet.
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January 24, 2008, 02:18 PM | #15 |
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7.62x39 is not .308 diameter. I think it is .310 or .311.
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January 24, 2008, 05:28 PM | #16 |
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For accuracy and ease of use, The Redding comp dies are hard to beat.
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January 25, 2008, 12:14 AM | #17 | |
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